There's only two wires on most Ford starters, a big one and a small one. You put them back on the same way you took them off.
June, 9, 2012 AT 7:58 PM
Removal & Installation
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner. Remove upper starter mounting bolts. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect starter solenoid wire connections. Remove starter motor lower mounting bolt. Remove starter motor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure negative battery cable is installed with starter mounting bolt. Tighten bolts to specification.
CAUTION: When battery is disconnected, vehicle computer and memory systems may lose memory data. Driveability problems may exist until computer systems have completed a relearn cycle. Before testing starter, ensure transmission is in Park or Neutral.
June, 10, 2012 AT 1:36 AM
To caradiodoc, I understand I am a female and I may seem like I am not that smart but I did not take it out but was left to put it back in, which to me knowing nothing about where they went made it tricky.
To KHLow2008 Thank you for not treating me in the such way as stated above. Although it did not give me any idea of how to put the starter wires on correctly. Looks as though I will just call a mechanic on monday to come by the house.
June, 10, 2012 AT 6:08 AM
Being female has nothing to do with it and you don't get to use that tired excuse. Three of my top students were female. They put most of the guys to shame.
You also didn't bother to state that someone else took the starter out. I'm not ragging on you but today has set a new record for people not providing all the details up front which makes us have to guess or type for an hour to cover every possibility. Without the additional information we don't know why we're answering a question so we don't know how to tailor our answer. What would you have expected for my first replay?
There's four different starter systems Ford used over the years. Most have the solenoid mounted on the inner fender near the battery. That's the one that can give people trouble because there are multiple wires on one of the large terminals. Ford just used that as a convenient tie point for multiple circuits that come right off the battery. If you're working down by the starter, there should only be one large cable and one small wire. If that's not what you have, describe the wires.
I can't get into Ford's web site, and their service manuals on DVD are really screwed up and won't work on any of my computers. You might try this page:
I think what you have is the third section, "Ford Late Model Starter System". The diagram is more complicated than needs to be for your purposes. If you have two wires, a large cable and a small wire, on your starter, those are the "battery cable" and the "solenoid wire". There could be other small wires that go to the large terminal but if there are, they are going to have to have larger terminals to fit that stud. If your problem has to do with someone cutting the terminals off, I can help you figure out which one is the solenoid wire.
June, 11, 2012 AT 4:17 PM
I finally got the starter on and the car starts. However when I get up to 45 miles per hour I hear a slight rattle. Did I forget to put something on?
June, 11, 2012 AT 4:39 PM
That would depend on where the noise is coming from. Most likely it is not directly related to the job but then again it could be something not correctly torqued or loose.
How, where and what type of noise is required to diagnose and you need to localise the source and possible cause. It could either be engine or drivetrain related.
Noise faults are something that are almost impossible to diganose without the physical vehicle.
June, 11, 2012 AT 9:32 PM
Here's something you might consider since it isn't real practical to run alongside the car at 45 mph: There is a tool you might be able to borrow or rent from an auto parts store that borrows them called the "Chassis Ear". It is a set of six microphones, a switch box, and headphones. You clip the microphones to suspect points, then drive around while listening with the headphones. You can move the microphones around to zero in on the source of the noise. Be aware that many mechanics have never seen or even heard of this tool. Suspension and alignment mechanics use it to find rattles, squeaks, and other noises.