I need some help. I believe I have some sort of wiring problem. ( I paid a shop to do the change) everything worked as it should. The steering column was removed to fix the firewall car is running but. Now I have some issues and could use input.
Rear turn signals work / not the front.
Hazard lights work in back/ not in front
Front park/ DRL do not come on until I turn on the head light switch to the park light position.
4. The low beam lights come on when I turn the head light switch to park light / my head light do not flip up, as they should not with the switch in the park light position. But my head lamps should not be on also.
The low beam light goes off when I switch on the high beam ( the lights are in the park light position )
The front turn signal do not work ( only the rear ) the dash indicator light flashes as normal
The hazard light only work in the rear indicator light flashes as normal
So is there a way to check the DRL module?
So, anyone have any idea of what may be the problem?
Did these problems coincide with repair work done?
April, 24, 2012 AT 7:40 PM
Before the repair everything worked fine
After repair. The problem started
July, 24, 2012 AT 4:29 AM
Check the main harness going through the bulkhead. Check the grounds. You'll find either one or two of the wires going to the front lights damaged, or a ground or two missing or disconnected. Also check the relays up front. See if the affected lights are getting power or not when they should be. As soon as Mitchell fixes it's schematics system, I can send you some.
July, 24, 2012 AT 6:07 PM
I found I have power to my fog light relay
but I have no ground continuity. The ground from the fog lights to the splice is ok
Now I'm following the ground wire from relay box to the fire wall
How do I seperate the connector between the fire wall
A schematic I have shows it as a. P100 grommet &. A C100 connector
July, 25, 2012 AT 12:58 AM
The grommet is the rubber piece that protects the wires as they go through the firewall/bulkhead. And without seeing the connector, I couldn't say how to disconnect it. Unless it's a hard splice with a crimp connector and solder, they usually have locking tabs and require a little wiggling.
July, 25, 2012 AT 1:18 AM
I hope I got it right. Here is pic
July, 25, 2012 AT 1:25 AM
Oh. THAT one. You don't really want to disconnect that one. Count the wires/pins from one side to the wire you're testing. Then do the same on the engine compartment side and test it from there. If I'm seeing it correctly, it should be the black wire between the blue and red ones on the the top. I'm also seeing what looks like solder that might be causing the problem, but I can't tell. It may be causing a short.