I am working on a 98 mitsubishi galant with a 2.4L and an automatic trans. The issue I am having is it wont start. The fuel pump, I have come to find out is only powered when I am in the start position. It doesnt turn the pump on when the key is turned to the run position. Thanks in advance for any info and help you can give me.
Does it crank? If it cranks, try some starter fluid through the throttle bore, and see if it fires on that. If it does, that would confirm you have ignition. At that point, you have to look at fuel pressure, as well as injector pulsing.
March, 24, 2011 AT 5:39 PM
Im sorry, yes it does crank.I tried starting fluid and it acts the same. Ive found I can get it started if I play with the throttle. While it was "kinda" running I unplugged injectors one by one and there was a noticable differance on each one. Also I checked for spark on each cylinder and its good and strong on all. The owner just informed me that the cat was glowing red for a while before it stopped running. And when I had it started there was no acceleration, is this thing starving for air?
March, 25, 2011 AT 2:27 AM
Yes, if the cat was glowing, it probably melted the inside and is restricted. You can try locating an oxygen sensor that is before the cat(it may have dual catalysts), and remove it. See if acceleration is restored, running it with the additional exhaust flow. If it improves, the question still remains as to why the catalyst got hot. It is usually an indication of a lean fuel condition. Replacing the cat would only correct the effect, and without determining the cause of the meltdown, you may jeopardize the new one.
March, 25, 2011 AT 9:00 PM
Ok, I removed the o2 sensor before the cat and still has no throttle response. There is no obstuctions in the air intake. And the tp sensor has smooth reading on the volt meter. Are there any tests I can do to checked for lack of air intake?Thanks
March, 26, 2011 AT 2:06 AM
Just for my information, was this oxygen sensor under the vehicle on the exhaust, or closer to the engine near where the manifold connects to the pipe. The reason I ask, and some more info you might need to know, is whether or not this is a California vehicle. A California vehicle will have two cats, and the downstream oxygen sensor is actually before the cat that is under the vehicle, so it would appear to be the front sensor. An easy way to detect Federal vs. California, is look at the underhood emissions label, it will have some wording about California if it is California emissions, or it will say Federal. As far as a check for lack of air intake, a compression test might be revealing. Remove all air piping to the throttle body. It is going to have to have exhaust to have intake. Another question I have, is the check engine light on, or are any codes stored. What is the condition of the timing belt, or the timing in general? If the cam timing is off, you may have this type of condition as well.
March, 26, 2011 AT 4:03 AM
The o2 sensor was just after the exhaust manifold, also just for grins I removed the cat off the car and it didnt help it either. This is a california vehicle. There is no check engine light or any codes either. The timing belt looks in good condition, no cracks, scrapes, etc.I will do a compression test tomorrow and also check the timing of the crank and cam. Thanks again for helping, this is a headache.
April, 5, 2011 AT 7:37 PM
Ok, compression on all 4 cylinders is 130 psi +or- 2 psi. With the #1 cylinder at tdc of the compression stroke all timing marks are at the correct position. Also with the plugs out I could smell fuel, coming from the open cylinders.
April, 11, 2011 AT 4:59 AM
The fuel smell may have originated from the compression test, if the injectors were firing during the test. It is going to be hard to say what you can do as far as pinpoint tests, to isolate the concern. You have a possible airflow meter concern, possibly a crank sensor, you could even have a faulty ECM. I am not sure what type of airflow sensor you have, either a vane meter, or a hot-wire sensor. If it is a hot wire, check and see that the elements aren't all caked with debris, and you can even clean them with an electrical contact cleaner. Have you plugged a scan tool in to read data? Another possibility is having some known good parts to substitute.