I have older vehicles too.'77 jeep cj 5 and a '46 willys jeep. both are simple ford-like brake systems
with drum brakes---several common things can be eziily found with a novice diyer
somehow "bleeding" is misconstrued into opening the bleeder then pumping like crazy then closing it- wrong!!!
bear with me, i'm trying to cover other things that affect the "braking experience" (pulling/ dragging/ etc) and also what will get the pedal "high and hard" (no this is not a porn site!)
like the ole primary/ secondary shoe musical chair routine, normally a set of 4 shoes has 2 primaries and 2 secondary shoes, they must be installed in the correct positions, they "will fit" wrong, so don't just unbox and install without checking things out! (both my jeeps are drum all the way around)
no matter which wheel. front or back. the "short lining" shoe goes forward and the "long lining" shoe goes to the rear - they should "mirror" each other from one side to the other- if you have front calipers, this gives you 2 less to worry about!
.---this is not what you want!--- 2 long ones on the passenger side---2 short ones on the driver's side or short one to the rear---long to the front
the brakes "self adjust" when you back up and hit the brakes. the shoes sorta "rack" or move (in reverse) and allow the "knife" to move and catch the next "cog" on the star wheel. if the shoes ain't in the right positions "excessive" or "no" movement might occur. this could make a racket, and/ or the "self adjust" may not happen either
another problem i often see is, "let's mix up all of the parts and clean them!" (or another dude mixed 'em up at a prior time)
recently, "tucker", a college feller whom i've been aiding in fixing his jeep had both issues i mentioned above (last week!)
not only were the shoes all mixed up, but his self adjusters were installed on the wrong sides (star wheels). when he hit the brakes in reverse, in theory, he was "un-adjusting" the shoes. they "shrank" away from the drums, instead of getting closer
there could be other stuff too
like. bleeding? initial shoe adjustment?
just maybe as a review.
gravity bleeding is sorta ineffective (in my opinion), especially with loops and sags in the brake lines and hoses. if there is air in it--it will always float to the top of your lines as the juice goes on by....sorta like turning your shampoo bottle upside down. air is "shoved out" and has no time to possibly stop, reverse and "rise" into loops in brake hoses between "pushes"
i will soon make some better pics on bench bleeding using the tubes (sorry i don't have them yet...i make 'em as i do stuff to mine or someone else's)
my method is done with the master cylinder installed on the jeep and using 2 people, this is sorta similar to the video you will see, made by someone else
the way i was taught---uses two people---the process is explained short and sweet, but is repeated maybe 6 to 8 times per wheel, just to be sure.....here it is below (i copied my answer to a ford truck and i'm pasting it)
if you had to replace the master cylinder (or let it run dry from a leak or during bleeding) my bench bleeding ain't on the bench...it's on the vehicle!
much ezer that way!
this can be done on the vehicle (my preference) using two people, one pumping and one monitoring the master cylinder.
i wrap string loops around the little hoses and tie a knot, as to keep the tubes from blowing off of the plastic adapters. kinda a "string" hose clamp
i take it one step further, by squeezing the little hoses with my fingers (as if i were a check valve) the very slow pumping of the pedal will push the fluid into the reservoir, scooting by my pinching, but the pinch will not allow it to s.uck air back
as you see in the beginning of this video--the air going back and forth in the tubes....my way makes things faster--the air and fluid only go one way....out!, but if you did not tie the hoses to the adapters--they will blow loose (lots of adjectives will be bust loose out of your mouth!)
this is very similar to my way, this is less messy, it's ready to go when you are done!
master cylinder is bled
here's how to do the brakes!
keep fluid in the reservoir at all times/ constantly checking!
start with furthest out wheel cylinder, from the master cylinder, working to the closest (rr, lr, rf, lf) (left hand drive vehicle)
2 people, one pumping, other bleeding and refilling
#1 man is the bleeder
#2 man is the pump man
1-man breaks bleeder loose-snugs it back yells, "pump it up"
2 man-pumps 6-8 times (yells "pumping") then holds pedal--yells, "holding"
1-man cracks bleeder...air/ fluid spurts out
2-man yell, "floor", just before the pedal, actually hits the floor
1-man tightens the bleeder....while it is still spurting out (not after it stops...or it will suck air back in).....then yells, "okay---pump it up"
process starts over until you are satisfied, with each wheel
this does not matter whether they are drum brakes or disc.
on drum brakes:
you should already have the self-adjusters pushing the shoes close to the drums, shoes slightly touching the drums , before you do the bleeding procedure.....this will keep you pedal at the top and tight.
i prefer this over using the one man, hose and cup, method where you submerge the hose and pump....to me this is faster and much ezer,
brake juice is water soluble---so it should rinse off of the back of your wheels and the driveway really ez
questions?....i hope not!
please reply with a big ole grin and good news!
Images (Click to enlarge)
Saturday, January 17th, 2015 AT 8:53 PM