Rattle just noticed at start up + drive.

Tiny
RAROO
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
  • 130 MILES
Tested for rattling noise from eng-used stethascope-noise not from exhaust or intake manifolds-or pulleys-no noise from head frontal area-tested fuel rail-loudest noise from pass front far rail area-removed injector plug from that cylinder-noise persisted-removed the other 2 front plugs individully from fuel rail injectors + the noise persisted-removed coil plugs 1 at a time-noise persisted.
Plz help my wife had to get a RIDE TO WORK + I hope she keeps her job though she wound up being late. I have more tools than most but not everything I need I'm sure.
I sure would make a donation if someone here could help-that's for sure.
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Friday, December 30th, 2011 AT 9:38 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Which engine do you have? Can you hear the noise inside?
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Friday, December 30th, 2011 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
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3.3 litre auto trans 41th trans/ auto -Grand Voyager
No could not hear the noise inside the vehicle-my wife said she heard a noise-I was unable to hear it. We came home-about 2 hours later when she was about to leave for work she started the van + I heard the noise-very easily from the outside-she popped the hood + I immediately checked the oil level-It was low but not engine damage worthy-topped it-restarted the van and took a stethascope to the pulleys/head area/exh + intake area. I found the most noise at the pass front injector area on the fuel rail. Honestly upon opening the hood it sounded like it was coming from internal since it emmenated from the exhaust manifold-until I used the stethascope I was scared for her.
I unplugged the injector plugs 1 at a time + noted no lack of rattle but of course noted lack of a cylinder-then unplugged the coil pack wires 1 at a time + noted the same-I am really wondering about this-code 43 appeared after a trans replacement + has not gone away after chking but no skip/poor fuel mlg noted. That's not to say my wife tracks fuel mileage the way I would.
We recently had a few bad issues w/mechanics + would like a decent one to give a hand.
Thankyou to any and all that can help.
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Friday, December 30th, 2011 AT 11:46 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
A very common problem is a rattling AC compressor clutch bearing. They can sound like the engine is coming apart. The best way to identify that is by removing the serpentine belt, then feeling the pulley while you spin it by hand. You might also see the outer plate of the clutch trying to turn with the engine running and the AC / defroster off.
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Saturday, December 31st, 2011 AT 12:24 AM
Tiny
RAROO
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This is an update not a responseI ckd for codes this morning-code 27 / injector control circuit/ output driver does not respond properly to control signal- I assume this logged due to me unplugging the cyl 2-4-6 injectors harness. No issue noted with ac compressor. The noise I heard yesteday is not occuring this morning for whatever reason. I ran vehicle to temp + let fans cycle. Still no noise, yesterday while noise occured fans had not been on while noise was occuring. I can hear light tapping at injector bases w/stethascope.
The noise I heard yesterday sounded just like that but WAY louder.
I had added about 3 quarts of 80 wt oil yesterday while noise occured. I had no other oil on hand.
The oil level was low but no light had came on.
I am at a loss of the lack of noise.
I have had a code 43 logged for a month now after a trans was installed. This code refers to ignition coiul primary circuit- peak primary circuit current not acieved with maximm dwell time-misfire detected in multiple cylinders. I do not have a scanner-just a book + key codes.
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Saturday, December 31st, 2011 AT 3:42 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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'96 and newer models should be giving you three-digit codes in the odometer display. How are you getting a two-digit code?

Injector clicking is normal. You can hear them without a stethoscope. For the record, Chrysler has extremely little trouble with their injectors over the entire life of the vehicle.

It sounds like you might be describing the purge control solenoid. As I recall, it sits somewhere behind the right head light. When the Engine Computer decides the time is right, it cycles that valve on and off about twice per second, and it is rather loud. They can often be heard from inside the van so people have been known to wrap them in foam. You would recognize that as a very steady thumping or clicking. The compressor clutch will be an uneven rattle or clinking sound, and it will not occur when you run the engine with the serpentine belt removed.

You're better off running the oil low than using 80 weight gear lube. That will do the job of isolating moving metal parts from each other, like engine bearings, but there are no detergents, anti-foaming agents, seal conditioners, or other additives in it. I haven't pulled the drain plug on my '88 Grand Caravan daily driver in over nine years! I replace the oil filter about once every three years, and add a quart of 10W-40 when the lash adjusters start making noise. In 3,000 miles, I add about two to three quarts oil. Each one replenishes the additives. Obviously that is abuse, not just neglect, and I'm not suggesting you do the same, but with 381,000 miles and only one timing belt / water pump repair, it shows what some of these engines are capable of. My 3.0L is nothing special, reputation-wise. Your 3.3L has a very good reputation as a strong engine. I've already run my oil so low that it took a quart just to get a taste on the dipstick. That means it was 3 quarts low. A full oil change only takes 4.5 quarts. I'm only sharing this sad story to put your oil level concern in perspective.

As a further point of interest, all engines use some oil between oil changes, and to reduce the number of complaints, all oil dipsticks are now marked with "min." And "max.". They no longer use "add" and "full". The oil level IS going to go down as you drive, but as long as it is anywhere between the two marks, it's okay. If the level starts out on the low end right after an oil change, nothing will happen if it goes a little below the "min." Mark.
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Saturday, December 31st, 2011 AT 10:41 PM
Tiny
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I am waiting for the parts store to open-I found the tensioner seized-not the pulley but the tensioner itself-replaced it about 2 years ago but now needs a new one again.
Pulled # plug-not oily but corroded pretty good-will replace all plugs.
I meant 80 wt oil as in big rig oil-not gear lube.
Plug wires are factory wires + shocked the hell out of me when disconnecting them. They may be next on the list.
I can only assume it was either a low oil issue or electrical malfunction of the PDM.
I have been having the usual horrible electrical problems they are famous for.
Wipers-dash lights-windows-locks-etc.
The van was very well taken care of by my father b4 I purchased it from him.
I will post findings after replacement of needed parts.
Thankyou for your replies, I will add more later-hopefully today.
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Sunday, January 1st, 2012 AT 3:27 PM

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