1997 Oldsmobile Achieva car makes ticking or clicking sounds. When cranked, it cranks ok, but it immediately starts making a ticking sounds. Maybe 3 or 5 clicks a second I would guess. So fairly rapidly. Mechanic says the serpentine belt is tight and does not think it needs replacing. Water pump was replaced but it still makes noise before and after the replace. When the car drives, it seems to go away (or the engine noise is covering it up, but I really think it goes away mostly), but when idle, whether its in park or drive it starts again. It's quite loud. After you've driven and you stop at a red light or something and are idling you can hear it. So the car is in drive at this point, with the brakes applied. With the brakes applied you can also feel this ticking slightly in the brake pedal. The brakes seem to work fine and are very responsive.
The mechanic doesn't think it's anything in the engine itself, and that there is something hitting the belt maybe causing it?
Another sympton is the ac compressor is broken so there is no cold air, I'm not sure if related or not just mentioning. The car drives fine, it accelerates fine, does not sputter or anything, and transmission (automatic) shifts fine.
i have the 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva SL Series II 2.4L L4 DOHC 16V
Oil level would be one check to perform, maybe it is top end engine noise(rocker/lifter). Another possibility to isolate it is to remove the drive belt, that would stop the accessories from spinning and if the noise is gone, narrow down the sources. That would also eliminate the compressor as a possible.
June, 9, 2011 AT 10:52 AM
Thank you. One thing I thought about last night to mention is that the sound does not increase or decrease with acceleration. It stays a steady interval pattern. Does that give any other clues?
June, 9, 2011 AT 12:56 PM
Also this morning when cranking when I turned the key it made sort of a grinding sound. I tried it again and it cranked up, and started making the ticking noise again as above.
June, 9, 2011 AT 3:32 PM
It doesn't sound as though it would be engine related if it doesn't change with rpm increase. The grinding sound doesn't make much sense, that would suggest that rpm should affect it. Is it possibly a canister purge solenoid? You say you feel it in the brake pedal? And you also say it is present in park or drive, what about neutral or reverse?
June, 9, 2011 AT 3:44 PM
Hm, I have not noticed that. I will notice and reply back later when I can tell more symptoms. Thank you
June, 14, 2011 AT 2:26 AM
Ok, so the most telling sympton I can relay is that the noise stops or greatly diminishes when I turn the steering wheel. Left or right, doesn't matter, as long as I'm putting pressure on the steering wheel it seems to go away. When I move the wheel back to straight the noise comes right back. This is consistent. It doesnt matter if i'm parked or drive or whatever gear. It seems that for instance if I turn and stop while turning, so my steering wheel is off center and I am stopped with brakes on, that the noise is there, then if I turn teh wheel to center it goes away. So it's like if I'm putting pressure on the steering wheel in any direction as long as its away from the current position of the wheel and steering wheel. Note that the power steering seems to work just fine, it is not difficult to turn the wheel at any time.
June, 14, 2011 AT 3:15 AM
I believe the power steering is driven off of the camshaft, on that motor. I am at a bit of a loss, not being able to hear it. It would seem that the possibilities of an accessory, an internal engine noise, cracked flex-plate, or something of the like, would change with engine speed. I still think I would remove the drive belt and see if the noise is still present.