1997 Mazda 626 has no spark

Tiny
TED1969
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 MAZDA 626
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 125 MILES
My son has a 1997 Mazda 626 which has no spark comming from the distributor to the spark plugs. I already replaced the distributor which has the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor built into it. I have the Haynes manual and looked at the electrical and found that it has a knock sensor according to the manual will creat the AC output voltage. It suppose to have a resistance reading of 560 ohms, I can not measure anything, if it is an open circuit will this not allow for any spark. If this is not the problem is it the powertrain control module? Can the module be repaired or reprogrammed?
Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 8:20 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
--You need to test the ignition control module-check if you have a sensor nearby the crankshaft pulley
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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
LAKEWOOD
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Once you determine the cause I have a 2.5 KL Millenia engine that I replaced and parting out. Have not taken anything off it yet so it is complete including the crankshaft position sensor. Will sell reasonable if it is needed and will work for you.
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Sunday, April 17th, 2011 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
TED1969
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The ignition control module and the camshaft position sensor are built into the distributor, I replaced it because I measured the voltages going in the modules but nothing comes out. As I originally stated all indications point to the PCM, is there a way to test it to confirm?
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2011 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
If voltage is getting to the ignition control module, but nothing is getting to the coil, then the module itself is bad. Check to see if there is voltage getting to the coil(s). Also, verify that the ground terminal(s) are indeed being set to ground to collapse the coil field.

Your Haynes manual shgould also tell you what pins on the PCM to check for ground and voltage during starting.
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Tuesday, June 14th, 2011 AT 4:52 AM
Tiny
TED1969
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the input from everyone, I found the problem to be 2 things. First I found that the battery did not take a full charge and replaced it. Second is the internal guts of the distributor was rusty and needed cleaning. I replaced the rotor and cap and gave the car a complete tune up. Now I have to change the O2 sensor(Bank 2 position 1)
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Thursday, June 16th, 2011 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
My pleasure. Glad I could help. Let us know if you need anything else.
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Friday, June 17th, 2011 AT 8:15 AM

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