Engine with a mis- fire

Tiny
COORS38
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 117,000 MILES
I've replaced everything I know of to fix this problem. I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil packs, EGR valve, fuel filter and complete new exhaust system. The fault code shows a bank 1234 mis-fire. When you first start the truck you can really hear and feel it as the truck warms up it seems to go away untill you get into it while your driving it. Also I noticed that the oil presure will drop and then jump back up when you stop or park it. The truck has a 4.6 liter motor with a alert air intact system. I replaced the exhaust because the convertors were clogged. I'm currently running a can of 44k in the fuel to see if it helps. It's a very nice looking Harly Davidson model 4x4 and I would like to get it running right so my daughter can drive it to school.
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:00 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
What brand spark plugs did you put in it?
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
COORS38
  • MEMBER
Not sure but they were bought from NAPA and they were not cheap I know they were Platinium plugs and I had a friend install them. The truck was running the same before the plugs and flasing the same code
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Bad coils are common and you can't run anything but Autolite plugs. Definitely not Bosch.
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:24 AM
Tiny
COORS38
  • MEMBER
I just called my buddy and they were Autolite. Correct me if I'm wrong but there's two coil packs per side what are the chances that both of them are bad. Our could just one be bad and still show a full bank misfire. I pulled the wires off of the coil to check if they were firing and all on that side where good. Could coil packs fail when you put them under a load and then regain spark later. And why will the truck run better after it warms up
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
There are actually 2 coils within each coil so you have the potential for 4 failures. It could also be injectors too. Someone needs to perform more in depth diagnostics to determine whether it's fuel or spark that you are losing and I doubt you are equipped for that.
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
(DIFFERENT GUY)

THIS WAS MY EXPERIENCE---AND ALL OF THE SUGGESTIONS I GOT FROM THE OTHER FELLERS HERE

Went thru a similar deal w/ '03 Ford Escape 3.0 V-6

Repetitive, fast hesitations (stumbles), lasting 1-2 seconds, varied in how far the "sets" were apart, it was more evident climbing a incline, while slowly administering gas. Random or none on level ground. Every now and again at idle, but very seldom.

---No codes ---

cleaned 1st, and/ or replaced the following

New Plugs. Then changed to "genuine plugs". Bah-Hum-bug, nothing wrong with the other new ones, I previously installed!

Boots and springs (possible holes in boots. NOT!)

air filter

MAF

EGR

A new IAC just for Giggles!

Mega Vacuum leak search several times.

Fought with wife many times over the situation, for 2+ months, It was NOT GONNA WHOOP ME!

I really hated taking off the "Plenum" so many times to access the other 3 cylinders

Each part seem to fix it for a day or two.I did not mind replacing the suggested parts, as I am all for "PM" and she's got 100,000 miles on her rig.

The final cure was #3 misfiring (lucked into the correct cylinder) I was gonna swap a new coil pack down the line, till it stopped

#3 was the ticket!

I had tried to get the Technical school to ride me with their portable machine---things did not work out, with their schedule.

I went to a salvage yard to get a used pack ($10) to swap around, then buy a new one if solved the problem.

The Master plan was to swap thru the front 3, if no positive results. Remove the plenum, "One Last Time", put the 3 front, EZily accessed packs under the plenum. Re-install it. Then swap thru the 3 front ones again (now the previous rear ones). THAT WAS THE PLAN ANYWAY.I HAVE PLENTY OF TIME, JUST NOT A BUNCH OF MONEY!

So happened, the salvage yard guy had a "SNAP ON" machine, he found a stored code, it said #3 had misfired. My little scanner could not tell me that!

Runs perfect now, with the New $79 Coil Pack!

That's why I'll always stick with a Jeep CJ, You can just about diagnose them, as you hear 'em drive by!

Wife now sees why I stick w/ my 35 and 65 year old Jeeps

The Medic
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 1:56 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Please be advised. The previous answer was not from a technician and the engine being used for an example is nothing like yours.
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 2:01 AM
Tiny
COORS38
  • MEMBER
So with all that being said do I start replacing the coil packs and then if that dosnt work replace injectors and would one coil failure cause a code for the whole bank
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 2:49 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
No, I didn't say to replace anything. I said you need further testing and you are not equipped to do that.
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 2:53 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
TECH OR NOT, MY JEEPS AIN'T SEEN A "PAY SHOP" SINCE 1987, AND THE WIFE PUT IT THERE THEN, WHILE I WAS DEPLOYED. THE O3 ESCAPE WENT IN FOR A TRANNY REBUILD, BUT NOTHING ELSE!

CAN'T DO THE TESTS?

I'M NOT GONNA RECOMMEND A SHOP, TILL I EXHAUST ALL I CAN GIVE

I MAY WASTE MY TIME AT TIMES--BUT MY TIME IS FREE TO MY HOUSEHOLD

I HAVE DONE SOME PARTS SWAPPIN' TOO---BUT DO IT AS INEXPENSIVELY AS POSSIBLE. AND YES I USUALLY BUY A NEW ONE ONCE I GET IT ALL FIGGERED OUT!

DO WHAT YOU WANT---I DO HAVE QUITE A FEW TOOLS---BOUGHT THEM INSTEAD OF BEER OVER THE LAST 31 YEARS

A CHILTON'S OR HAYNE'S MANUAL HAVE BEEN MY MOST RELIABLE RESOURCE FOR HELP (I HAVE MANY BOOKS FOR RIGS I DEAL WITH)---AND IF I DO NOT/ DID NOT UNDERSTAND SOMETHING I FOUND OUT!

I SEE SPENDING 6 HOURS AND LET'S SAY $20 BUCKS FOR A FEW TRIAL AND ERROR AUTO SALVAGE YARD PARTS---VS---$200+ FOR SOMEONE IN A BIG SHOP TO TELL ME IT WAS A BAD COIL PACK

AFTER I'M HANGING MY HEAD, AND ALL I COULD POSSIBLY DO HAS BEEN DONE---THEN A SHOP MIGHT BE IN ORDER, BUT THERE AGAIN, A SMALL "CAPABLE" SHOP. NOT A STEALERSHIP!

IF YOU CANNOT DO THE TESTS, AND SPECIAL TOOLS COST TOO MUCH

I WOULD AT MINIMUM TRY OBTAINING A USED COIL PACK OR TWO, AND AN INJECTOR FROM THE SALVAGE YARD---AT A SELF SERVE SMALL AUTO SALVAGE YARD, YOU MIGHT GET A SACKFUL OF SENSORS, COIL INJECTOR, ETC FOR LESS THAN $20--- I HAVE!

THE REST IS JUST TIME!

I AM EVASIVE--CANNOT BE SHOT DOWN!

OTHER THINGS NOT MENTIONED ABOVE ARE :

HAVE YOU NEEDED JUMP-STARTING JUST PRIOR TO THIS PROBLEM HAPPENING? OIL GAUGE HAYWIRE? ANY OTHER GAUGES ACTED UP. THIS MAY GUIDE ME IN YET ANOTHER, UN-LOOKED AT POSSIBILITY

HAVE YOU LOOKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS?

I MAY NOT BE PINNING THINGS DOWN LIKE A $20,000 MACHINE. BUT I AM TRYING, EVERYTHING I HAVE MENTIONED COST MAY BE LESS THAN $20---AND NOT WASTED, THEY ARE OR WILL BE SPARE PARTS!

RIGHT HERE, WATCHING YOUR DILEMMA

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, December 20th, 2011 AT 3:35 AM

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