start unless you apply extra pressure on the key (not sure if it is extra torque - like you are trying to turn the key past START, or
if it is extra downward pressure (while holding the key in START); then it will start.
We concluded that there must be a bad connection of some type, so I decided to try replacing the ignition switch.
Disconnected battery, removed shroud, unscrewed T10 security screw, removed connectors, removed ignition switch. Actuator rod looks
fine. I did not remove lock cylinder.
Purchased replacement ignition switch at local auto parts store. Turned ignition switch connector (with screwdriver) to line up with
actuator shaft. Reconnected connectors, screwed T10 back in, reconnected battery.
Key was not in ignition, but I noticed immedidately (upon connecting battery) the continued chime sound that indicates that you have
key in ignition when door is open. Close door - chime stops, key still not in ignition. Insert key, turn to START; console lights
come on, but it does not start. I applied the extra pressure/torque (that worked with old ignition switch), but it still does not
I wondering if I had messed something up, so I removed new ignition switch and put old one back in. Reconnect battery. Key not in
ignition. No chime sounds (normal). Insert key. Turn to start, apply extra pressure/torque and it starts.
Ok, so I'm thinking that maybe the new ignition switch is defective (like it thinks that the key is in when it isn't), or could I have
possibly messed something up with the new ignition switch?
Also, with this need (with my old ignition switch) to apply this extra pressure/torque on the key to get it to start, does that sound
like a bad connection in the ignition switch (as I have been assuming)? Or could it be anything with the lock cylinder or actuator
Thanks for your help, John :)
have the same problem?
Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 8:20 PM