1997 Chrysler Sebring



November, 20, 2011 AT 4:34 PM

I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebrin JXi Conv. With a V6. I am having trouble finding out why the radio, the trun signals, wipers and radio not working. I did find a short in the soloniod on the starter and I also found the combo trun signal/ wiper switch was also bad. But after replacing bothm the car starts and drives fine, but the three items still are not working. I was thinking a grounding issue, but now leaning toward an issue with ignition switch after reading a post by caradiodoc. Plus when the key is in the ignition, the chime for the door being open will sound as I have pressure on the key and as soon as I let of the key the chome stops. I am not a car expert, but I know someone out there has an answer for me.


3 Answers



November, 20, 2011 AT 5:56 PM

It could deal with the ignition switch. However, start easy. Check grounds, check fuses. As far as the signals and wipers, since they both run through the multi function switch, check wiring in the steering column.



November, 20, 2011 AT 6:07 PM

All the fuses are fine. Tested all the fuses under the hood but forgot to test fuses at dash. Checked wiring at colum, all seems fine, but I feel I need to test them too. Is there a good way to test the wiring at the steering column to see they work properly. I know they are seated properly.



November, 20, 2011 AT 7:58 PM

Hi guys. I suspect you're both right about the ignition switch. Start by measuring the voltage on both sides of fuses 14 and 15 inside the car. They're both 10 amp, red fuses. 14 feeds the radio and 15 feeds the combination flasher unit and the wiper switch. If you can't get your voltmeter or test light probe on the fuse terminals, there's two tiny holes on top of each fuse to poke into for test points.

If you find 0 volts on both fuses you have a burned ignition switch contact and possibly a melted / overheated pair of terminals in the switch connector. Remove the steering column covers so you can back-probe the switch terminals. You will find 12 volts on terminal 7, a 16 gauge red wire. That circuit has to be good if the starter works and the engine runs. Next, check terminal 8, a 16 gauge black / white wire. There should be 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the "run" or "acc" position. If you find that voltage missing you can double-check by jumping those two terminals with a stretched out paper clip or cotter pin. If the dead circuits start working, replace the switch and check those terminals for overheating. If the connector is melted, you can cut the two terminals out of the plastic and slide in two new ones individually. Cut off about four inches of the old wires. They will be hardened from being overheated and will be impossible to solder to. Splice in new pieces of wire, be sure there's no sharp points of wire sticking up, cover them with heat-shrink tubing, (electrical tape will unravel into a gooey mess), attach universal crimp-type terminals but also solder them for a better connection, then plug them in after the connector has been plugged in. Be sure the new terminals fit tightly. Looseness presents a small amount of resistance which causes heat buildup and that heat promotes a worse connection and more heat until the same problem occurs.

The bad contact usually originates inside the switch at the contacts then the heat migrates out to the terminals. If the connector is not melted and you're tempted to forgo replacing the terminals, be sure to inspect them very closely for discoloration. For minor darkening you might get away with using a pick to push in beside each terminal to squeeze them tighter. If they're blackened, replace them, otherwise you'll be doing the job again soon. Black terminals have lost their spring tension even though you might think you cleaned up their contact points with sandpaper. The heat caused by the poor connections will migrate inside the switch and degrade the new contacts.

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