I think you need to get a mechanic involved if you want to fix this with the least expense. First of all, you know a rattle snake will bite you, therefore, you know your neighbor's dog will bite you. That's as logical as knowing how to replace a fuel filter on a Chrysler because you replaced two on GM products. How can you possibly draw any conclusions based on that? Some fuel filters are inside the gas tank and are not meant to be replaced. What in the world does removing a wheel and tire have to do with getting to a fuel filter? Second, unless it rusts out and starts leaking, or you're working on a diesel truck, you will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter. They commonly last the life of the vehicle. Even when they do get plugged, fuel flow does not stop completely. It becomes increasingly restricted, and that could cause stalling when the highest volume of fuel flows from the pump, ... Which is during coasting. I'll explain that if you don't believe me.
Third, you didn't list the engine size. There's three, and none of them use a distributor and rotor. If anyone found a distributor, you have the wrong car listed. Code 302 is for a misfire in cylinder 2. If that started right after the spark plugs and wires were replaced, start by making sure the wires are on the right spark plugs and the plugs are gapped correctly. A misfire will definitely cause a hesitation on acceleration, but it will also be felt at idle. That by itself will not cause stalling and a failure to start, so it appears there are two different problems. The cylinder numbering is 2, 4, 6 front to back on the driver's side and 1, 3, 5 front to back on the passenger side. The corresponding numbers are molded on the coil pack.
If anything was done with the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor, and used ones were reinstalled, was a special paper spacer used on the end to set the critical air gap? If not, that can cause intermittent stalling and a failure to restart. You would find a clue to that by measuring the voltage coming from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. Look for the dark green / orange wire in the coil pack connector or in any injector connector. You will see 12 volts on that wire for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What is important is whether that voltage comes back while cranking the engine. If it does not, suspect those two sensors.
You haven't specified if you have spark or fuel pressure. Those are the two basics to check first. You're going to replace the fuel filter to remove water from the tank? You aren't even sure there is water in the gas. If there is, replacing the filter won't do anything. They trap dirt, not water. You weren't clear on the time line of when all these events occurred. If a batch of bad gas is to blame for engine stalling, that would have occurred within a few minutes of buying that gas. If the engine ran fine for a few hours or days, the gas is not the problem. I did have two cars come in within two days after buying gas from the same place. To identify those, we threw samples on the shop floor and threw lit matches on them. That stuff put the matches out.
You got a misfire code two months ago and it's back again? How can it set if the engine doesn't run? The code is the message about the problem that the Engine Computer detected. Clearing the code doesn't make the problem go away, although you do want to clear it once the problem is identified and solved.
Before you introduce any more variables and potential problems, first determine if you're missing spark, fuel pressure, or both. Fuel pressure can be misleading because the pump will run for one second after turning on the ignition switch. That pressure does not mean the pump is running during engine cranking, although it does mean the pump is not the problem. It's helpful to know that fuel pumps fail in different ways. GM fuel pumps almost always quit while you're driving and they let you sit on the side of the road. Chrysler pumps almost always fail to start up but once they do, they rarely quit while you're driving. They let you sitting in the driveway.
The 3.3L uses a timing chain. The water pump is right in the front of the engine and you don't get close to removing the chain to replace the water pump. On the 3.5L the water pump is driven by the timing belt. No water pumps are driven by a timing chain.
I'm not sure what the reference to the jack stands is about. No professional would ever consider crawling under a car supported only by a floor jack. In my Auto shop my students got one warning about a failure to use jack stands. At the second offense, which only happened once, they knew I was coming to let the car down on top of them. It's really that big a deal. If someone bumps the release handle, a seal in the jack gives out, you unbalance the jack by wiggling on the car, or the car just slides off, the non-running engine will be the last thing on your mind, ... If you live to think about in the hospital. You may not have learned a lot about cars yet, but at least learn from other people's mistakes and use jack stands. We all started out having to learn from the experts but you have to be around to do that.
Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 10:38 PM