1996 Saturn SL2

No, initially I was driving down the interstate and turned the heater onto the floor. In practically no time, the windows fogged up. Turned the setting from floor to defrost, and turned the AC on to help with the moisture. Had to pull over as I totally couldn't see, eventually rolled the windows down, and switched the temperature from hot to cold. Got the windshields cleared, and rolled the windows back up, switched the temperature back over to hot, and the windows started fogging up again. Eventually figured out a combination that would keep the windows clear without me freezing to death. It was: front windows cracked about 1/4 inch, air flow on floor, temperature at about 3/4 from all the way hot. When the car was new, we had it to the dealer twice 'cos we smelled coolant in the cab whenever we turned on the heater, but the techs never found anything wrong. I'm wondering if there is a valve of some sort somewhere in the system, possibly connected to the temperature cable?

I don't think it's the air blend door, as I do feel a difference between cold and hot when flipping between the two. But what I am getting is a lot of moisture when the temperature lever is shoved all the way over to the hot side.

As this happened last night, and I had neither the time, nor the inclination to physically troubleshoot this problem, I took the "comfortable" way out and went web-surfing. Today this problem was easily diagnosed by the copious amounts of water pumping its way into the passengwer side floorboard of the car. The heater core appears to have let go. By the time I'm finished, this car will have a completely new cooling system, as I'm going to go ahead and change out the original heater hose when I install the new heater core. Thank you, saturntech9 for your willingness to help me. I'm reassured knowing if some other curve-ball comes my way concerning this well engineered, American made machinery, you will be there to advise me.

Saturntech9, I tackled the job today. It took some time with the shop vac to suck up most of the water, then only about 3 hors or so to do the job. A stinking piece of duct work held me up the longest, and the old foam duct seal simply disintegreated on contact. I loathe any kind of job that involves me getting into or under the dash. All that plastic. So much can go irreplacably wrong in the blink of an eye. Anyway, the plumbing was the easy part, the devil was in the details. I used pipe insulation (cut to fit) to make a new duct seal. Improvise, adapt, and overcome is what old Gunner's Mates do best! It's all back together now, no runs, no drips, no errors, and no left over parts either!