Driving down the highway, Cruise control will.

ADDITIONAL:

I proceeded with the test after the BRAKE CLUTCH SWITCH test and confirmed the servo completely retracts the ribbon to WOT and holds it there until I hit "BRAKE" button which proves the module all the way to the throttle body is A-OK. Other tests that passed were cruise activation switch: SET/COAST and RES/ACC and ON/OFF. Coincidence or not I was not willing to jack the car up in the rain and leave the tool possibly exposed to water to test and check VSS so thats the only test I believe I did not do and will have to wait.

I have no idea I was hoping if you read all that and came up with the same answer id imagine maybe one of them is messed up thats why it says "LIGHTS" when the pedal isnt depressed and is only supposed to illuminate LIGHTS when brake lights are on? I guess its no sin to buy 27$ in parts when it very well may be the cause (all 3 switches). I will verify everything again tomorrow just to triple check. Is there any way like if maybe I unplug the switches and jump them with a paperclip or leave them untouched that I might be able to mock if the switch was to work correctly? Maybe it would help further diagnose the cause. And also I guess nothing will tell the truth until I can get a reading on the vss!

I think I read that right out of the instructions. But this tool is so awesome!

The module is under the hood against the firewall so it won't be possible to try it that way I just figured I would try it on the lift. It will kick the abs light on but maybe I could see what's happening that way maybe. The not reason why I could imagine "LIGHTS" stays illuminated might be because it has led brake lights so theres no rsistance as if there is a filament installed. But it would be easy to Substitute a socket that dangles or to wire an inline resistor between leads to trick the computer to thinking original bulbs are in place. The worst part about this is that all LEDS in the rear were installed after this problem took way and after the transmission installed which is why I want to dismiss this theory all together.

I still haven't had a chance to check VSS, but according to the manual it has to be going 25 mph and I would imagine at this state VSS should have a solid light.

Brake and clutch sensor are working every time and are adjusted properly. I found a flow chart on autozone that said if those switches are too tight? That it will fail?

At any rate when testing the module again when I would over ride the cruise it would keep pulling the throttle body plate little by little until it was open fully and if you hit set coast it would start to let ribbon out and either stop half way or go all the way out. Not sure if this is part of the test or not but I wasn't sure upon observing closely. This result happend with 3 separate modules all off of different year cars same part number!

Hopefully. Can get some input on that!

Well well.I am sorry for how long I havent provided any updates but I am still searching high and low for this problem. I have now searched every menu of the Tech2 only to find that the tables for revolution per mile cannot be adjusted. I have done a lot of searching and have come up with some similar problems close to mine on a GM car and it so happens to be a saturn.

Supposedly there are swaps that guys are doing out there for the final ratio that will lower rpms in 5th gear. Well, I have sworn even to the transmission guy that my RPMS in 5th are a tad lower than the last 2 transmissions but I agree with him and everyone else with the answer that all 5 speed internals for the sunfire and cavalier are the same so I cant imagine there really being a change it might just be my mind. I still need to verify the speed even though I still have stock tire size.

I have thought this through to understand that changing the speed sensor will not allow the computer to understand any better that the car should engage cruise in 3rd through 5th gear something else has happened to engage in 4th and 3rd flawlessly and very smooth but in 5th its erratic and not consistent.

Which says something of installing resistors between pins. Im still reading the whole thing as the thread is rather long but this could work. I still have not tested VSS on the lift with the cruise tool but as soon as the snow and ice go away that can be done quickly

I have checked every DTC which was only VTD and loss of data a very long time ago and has had a lot of completed drive cycles since. These cruise systems are heavily reliant on the tables coded in the PCM. Please let me know if you have come up with any other ideas. The brake and clutch are working correctly according to the J tool and Tech2 and Solus Ultra AND snap on verdict not that I thought any of them were wrong those are just some that have been used so far. Should I really be looking to find a Tech1 still?

Thanks for all the help I know we can solve this! I also have found a few flow charts for Cruise if you read through them please let me know if you think this is a good basis with the J Tool! Ill attach the images below. Ill only attach the first 2 of the 6 I have so its not infringement or anythingl ike that

Well I appologize for sending that link I read a little too fast and it looks as though its only for code setting of Cruise control.I wish I had a code to read from my cruise control so scratch that idea until I read further! Not totally sure why this is so hard nothing has changed unless there is a scrambled data from the VSS im totally dumbfounded!