My car (4 cyl 96 honda accord ex) stalled when I pressed on the clutch at normal op temp, run normal when cold though. What I have done to it: cleaned throttle body parts, replaced egr valve, ignition coil, crank pulley, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs and wires. The car had no CEL, can't find any vacuum leak, and clutch still okay. I might change the distributor cap and crank ps (no code on it though). I also found the bottom chain cover was cut by the belt when replacing the crank pulley. Any advices on what I should do next?
Check fuel pressure. Check for spark when it wont start. Make sure the timing belt is good as well.
One other thing, make sure the coolant level is good. Hondas are finicky with low coolant level causing idle issues.
September, 22, 2012 AT 11:49 PM
The car doesn't have an idle issue, the car can be restart every time it stalled. The car stalls whenever I press on the clutch when at normal temp. Fuel pressure and coolant lvl are normal. I'm afraid there might be internal leak, the coolant sealer, or electrical problem. I just don't know what's up.
September, 23, 2012 AT 12:11 AM
The fact that it stalls is an idle issue.
What is the fuel pressure?
There is an idle control motor on the throttle body that could be an issue.
September, 23, 2012 AT 12:25 AM
51 psi and I've cleaned and re-adjusted idle valve and the fast idle valve. Car only has the problem when warm up. Shouldn't idle problem be at all temps? Should I replace the idle control motor?
September, 23, 2012 AT 12:31 AM
Cannot clean and adjust the idle control valve. It is computer controlled.
Yes, my guess would be the idle control valve.
September, 23, 2012 AT 5:31 AM
If the stalling ONLY occurs when clutch pedal is depressed, it could be a mechanical fault. The thrust bearing of the crankshaft is worn and this can result in the crankshaft having too much side movement causing the stalling.
September, 26, 2012 AT 11:26 PM
Here are the result on the tests for the iacv: the idle seem the same when the connector is unplugged (failed), the voltage reading on the connector y/blk is 12.05V (passed), the resistant is 11.2 ohm and no continuity on either side of the terminals (passed). The valve passed it stand alone tests but failed the idle test. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?