Chrysler has two sealers. Those are the only ones I'm familiar with. The black stuff stays a little more rubbery and will not bond and seal if there is any film of oil on either of the parts. The gray stuff gets harder but will still seal through a little oil.
The pan gasket won't leak oil that fast. The sending unit would be more common. If there's oil up higher, snug the two bolts for the valve cover. The rubber gasket is reusable but sometimes the bolts loosen a little. If they're loose, don't over-tighten them because you could deform the cover.
Look at the cam seals on the driver's side of the heads. Oil will run out pretty quickly if one of the plugs fell out.
I had students chasing an oil leak on my 3.0L a few years ago. They found leaks at the rear cam seal behind the sprocket, the o-ring seal for the distributor adapter, and the valve covers. With every repair, it leaked worse afterward. Turned out the main leak was a pin hole rusted through the higher point of the oil pan. With every repaired leak the pressure in the engine went up and pushed the oil out faster that was draining down.
If you still can't find the source of the leak, consider renting or borrowing a "smoke machine". It puts out white smoke at 2 pounds of pressure. You can stick the hose into the dipstick tube, then watch to see where the smoke comes out.
Sunday, February 20th, 2011 AT 7:22 AM