1995 VW Passat Clutch shifting Problems

Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT
  • 228,000 MILES
Hi I have a 1995 VW Passat I drove 700 miles parked it for the night, went out the next morning car starts fine but when you put the cluch in and try to shift jerks and moves and dies wont let me shift so put a new Clutch Slave in still does the same thing is there something I can do or do I need to put a new clutch in and can I just pull the tranny out leave the engine in thanks Sean
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 9:22 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Did you replace the clutch assy or just the clutch disc?
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
I just replaced the Clutch Slave not Clutch Yet do I need to? And If I replace the clutch can I just take out the Tranny leave the eninge in? Thanks
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
PASSAT (4-CYLINDER ENGINE)
Removal
Disconnect battery cables and remove battery. Remove radiator cover. Disconnect all electrical connections to transaxle and position harness aside.
Remove balance weight and disconnect gear selector cable from gear selector lever. Remove bolt with threaded sleeve from shift lever. Remove gear selector cable along with washer and square self-locking nut.
Disconnect gate selector cable from actuating arm/relay lever. Remove cable bracket support. Remove clutch slave cylinder (DO NOT open hydraulic system) and position aside.
Remove air intake duct between air cleaner and intake air elbow. Remove 3 bolts from right-side engine mount. Remove ground strap from upper transaxle-to-engine bolt. Remove upper rear transaxle-to-engine bolts. Loosen, but DO NOT remove front transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Remove bolt from left-side transaxle mount, and nut from front mount bracket. Support engine/transaxle assembly with Support Bridge (10-222A) and Adapter Spindles (10-222 A/1). Slightly raise engine. Remove engine undercover.
Remove starter. Remove power steering bracket from transaxle. Remove front mounting bracket and engine mount. Mark balance weight at subframe for installation reference. Remove balance weight.
Disconnect exhaust system in front of Three-Way Catalytic Converter (TWC). Remove right-side inner Constant Velocity (CV) joint protective cover from engine. Remove left-side air deflector from lower control arm.
Disconnect both axle shafts from flanges. Turn steering wheel to full-left lock. Push engine/transaxle assembly as far forward as possible. Tie axle shafts out of way.
Remove transaxle-to-mount bracket. Remove adapter spindles and lift engine/transaxle assembly until exhaust system contacts heat shield. Push engine/transaxle assembly forward and remove lower transaxle bracket mounting bolt.
Remove small clutch cover from behind right-side axle flange. Remove large clutch cover plate. Lower engine to previous position, then push as far as possible toward right side and lower engine using left-side adapter spindle.
Remove lower transaxle-to-engine bolt. Push engine/transaxle assembly forward from underneath vehicle using Set-Up Press (3300A). Place transmission jack under transaxle. Remove forward bolt from upper engine/transaxle support. Separate transaxle from engine. Lower transaxle and remove from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Plug transaxle openings to prevent contamination or fluid loss. Push clutch release lever rearward and temporarily install mounting pin or an 8 x 35 mm bolt through pivot arm. Remove pin or bolt after installation is complete.
Ensure engine/transaxle mounts are free of stress when tightening. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
PASSAT (V6 ENGINE)
Removal
Disconnect battery cables and remove battery. Remove upper section of air cleaner housing. Remove radiator cover. Remove right-side bracket-to-engine mount bolt and bracket. Disconnect all electrical connections to transaxle and position harness aside.
Remove balance weight and disconnect gear selector cable from gear selector lever. Disconnect gate selector cable from actuating arm/relay lever. Unclip clutch slave cylinder hose at cable support bracket. Remove cable support bracket.
Remove clutch slave cylinder (DO NOT open hydraulic system) and position aside. Remove upper transaxle-to-engine bolts. Remove cooling system recovery tank and position aside.
Remove left-side transaxle mount bolt. Remove bracket and mount. Install Engine Support (10-222A) and Adaptor Spindles (10-222 A/1 and 10-222 A/3). Slightly lift engine/transaxle assembly.
Remove lower belt guard and engine undercover. Remove starter. Remove balance weight from subframe. Disconnect exhaust system in front of Three-Way Catalytic Converter (TWC).
Disconnect both axle shafts from flanges. Turn steering wheel to full-left lock. Tie both axle shafts aside, as high as possible. Push engine/transaxle assembly as far right as possible.
Remove accessible transaxle mount-to-bracket bolts. Using adapter spindles, lift engine/transaxle assembly until exhaust system contacts heat shield. Remove remaining bolts and transaxle bracket (push engine/transaxle assembly rearward, toward bulkhead as needed).
Lower engine/transaxle assembly to previous position. Using left-side adapter spindle, tilt engine. Remove clutch cover plate. Remove transaxle-to-engine bolts above right-side axle flange.
Place transmission jack under transaxle. Remove lower transaxle-to-engine mounting bolt. Separate transaxle from engine. Using Engine Support (3300), push engine forward until it contacts subframe. Lower transaxle and remove from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Plug transaxle openings to prevent contamination or fluid loss. Push clutch release lever rearward and temporarily install mounting pin or an 8 x 35 mm bolt
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
How's the clutch master cylinder?

Does the clutch grab high or at the floor?

4 cyl or 6 cyl?

Engine stays in the car when doing a clutch job.
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Wednesday, March 21st, 2012 AT 2:42 AM
Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
If the car is off you can put it in first gear or R then when you start the car move but you cant pull it out of gear or shift to the next just grinds and its a 4cyl
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Wednesday, March 21st, 2012 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
The clutch is still engaged (grabs) if it wants to move with the
pedal to the floor.

This is usually due to hydraulic pressure not being enough (bypassing
slave or master cylinder).

If the hydraulics check out, then you have to pull the tranny to
see what the problem is.

Collapsed pressure plate, release fork cracked etc.

You can check the master by pinching the slave cylinder hydraulic
line. The pedal should be sold (does not go down when pushed).

If the pedal goes down, then the master cylinder is bypassing
fluid. Not allowing pressure to build correctly.
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Wednesday, March 21st, 2012 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
Well took the tranny out 1 of the 4 clutch springs had sheerd off a nother one about to pad was still pretty good so guess thats what happen so getting a new clutch
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
Good to hear you found the problem!

Doesn't sound like a typical failure. It's difficult to guess
what is wrong over the internet, but glad to hear that you found
something (would have been worse if everything looked ok).

I pulled the tranny on a 2003 TDi today. Didn't expect what I
found. Had to cut the dual mass flywheel to gain access to the
flywheel mounting bolts.

The release bearing exploded on this one and the clutch disc was
down to the rivots. But he said there was no slipping leading
up to this. Hmmmm
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
Dang dont look fun at all, I just posted a pic of what happen just waiting for a new one to get in now
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
EXOVCDS
  • MEMBER
Nice picture! Disc doesn't look too bad. Original clutch though, so
guess it lasted long enough.

Was pulling the clutch as easy as the "cut & paste" instructions above?

Thomas
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
BENZENWENGER
  • MEMBER
The clutch amost looks newer, I buyed the car with 194000 on it and its has just over 228000 on it now engine still runs strong been chainging oils filters every 3000 miles, and I did not really follow it was just a pain removing the tranny mount then moving the tranny sideways then out
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MEMBER
That looks like a clutch disc that suffered through one (or two) too many burnouts to me. Were they fun?
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Sunday, March 25th, 2012 AT 8:10 AM

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