Crank/no start

Tiny
IRISHDAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 167,000 MILES
We have the base model, 1.6L/4AFE motor, 3 speed automatic transmission. Got it about six months ago. Replaced the battery, the starter plunger and contacts and the little car ran like a champ. First a little history: A few weeks ago we noticed that after driving one day, there would be some overnight coolant leakage on the driveway the next morning (under where the coolant overflow bottle is located). The amount leaked would be about a cups worth, not a lot, but some. Replaced the radiator cap and it did not make any difference. No leaks found with the car running. So we would fill the radiator every time we wanted to go anywhere in that car, and never went more than a few miles. We only drove it a few times a week until we could fix the coolant leak. The car has never overheated and the gauge is always on the low side when driving. Still have not been able to diagnose the coolant overflow/leak cause but then along came the crank/no start issue so this has to be fixed first.

As I said, the car ran really great even though we had the coolant overflow/leak issue. We drove the car around the corner a couple of weeks ago and came home and parked the car. The next day I went out to do some more coolant leak troubleshooting and the car would crank/no start. Did some checking and this is what I know so far; Car distributor rotor turns and has spark on all four spark plug wires. I sprayed some starter fluid up the intake (to rule out the fuel pump) and it would not even catch, just kept cranking/no difference. Checked and no engine codes on this OBD1 car. Checked all the fuses I could find and did not find any blown, although I could probably recheck if I knew which fuses and relays I should recheck and where exactly they are located. Any advice on where to look/check? Checked all fluids and everything good, and no evidence of coolant in the engine oil. I guess my next step would be to check the fuel injection system and perhaps the engine compression but I am not all to sure how to go about that, any advice?

My wife and I are seniors and on a fixed income so we cannot afford a mechanic. My head tells me that it is probably something simple but I am not a mechanic by trade. Any and all help and advice is greatly appreciated!
Sunday, June 24th, 2018 AT 3:07 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
From this story my first instinct is that the water pump is leaking from the wrap hole and ruined your timing belt, but a thorough inspection would help more accurately. I say so because I have owned one of these cars and I also worked as a Toyota tech many years ago. I would remove the top timing cover and see if the cam pulley is turning when you crank the engine, but even if it does turn there could be teeth missing on the belt.
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Monday, June 25th, 2018 AT 8:35 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the help! I did check to see if the rotor was spinning as we cranked the engine and it was so I figured the timing belt was okay. Can the rotor spin, and send spark to the plugs, if the timing belt is bad or missing teeth as you described? In my limited experience I thought the problem would have something to do with a sensor or some other type of relay/fuse or other electrical connection since it worked one day and crank/no start the next. Is there some fuse/relay/sensor/electrical connection I should also check? And now that you mention it, when we first got the car a few months ago, I thought I saw a little coolant up near the water pump but I thought it was coming from the rubber hose/neck behind the pump. I tightened the screw clamps on the rubber hose and did not detect the problem any more. Aside from checking any fuses/relays/sensors/electrical connections you suggest, is there a quick way to get the top timing cover off?
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2018 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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  • 1,139 POSTS
With this kind of mileage I would remove all of the covers, If it were my vehicle anyways. With limited mechanical knowledge there is only so much you can do to diagnose further because if it’s not the belt it could be base engine problems or bad fuel.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2018 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for your advice and it is helpful. Today my son was able to help me do a compression test and starting with cylinder #1 (closest to the timing belt side of the engine) the readings were: #1) 60 PSI, #2) 90 PSI, #3) 65 PSI, #4) 60 PSI. I know it is better to do this on a warm engine but we cannot get the thing to start. Anyway, not sure why #2 cylinder is so much higher than the other three cylinders. No evidence of coolant in on the spark plugs, in fact they looked dry, but the car has been sitting now a few weeks so I guess if there was coolant in there it could have evaporated? It got pretty hot outside (103) so we came inside but hope to check for voltage at the fuel injection later tonight. Other then that, I am stumped. Knowing all this, do you still think the timing belt may be ruined and that it causing the trouble?
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Friday, July 6th, 2018 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
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Got a chance to re-do the compression test (I did not have all four plugs out at the same time with the throttle down the first time I did it). Anyway, with all four plugs out and with the throttle down all the way, I checked the compression again. Cylinder #1 being the one closest to the timing belt. Cylinder #1) 80 PSI, #2) 130 PSI, #3) 120 PSI, #4) 80 PSI. In doing this test, we did smell gasoline with the spark plugs out so my guess is that the cylinders are getting gas. Could the low compression be caused by an out of time timing belt? This car ran like a top until this happened. If it is just a head gasket or timing belt issue, or both, then I think my son and I can get them both fixed ourselves. We have changed a timing belt on our 1996 Camry twice so we know we can do that job. However, I would not want to waste my time, energy and money though if the engine is toast or needs a full rebuild on a twenty three year old car. Thoughts?
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Friday, July 6th, 2018 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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  • 1,139 POSTS
Without giving you a super long explanation, I am still leaning towards the timing belt based on your results. Because with fuel, fire, and not perfect but sufficient compression it should run, unless the timing is off. I could go by the book, but twenty five years in the shop and I like helping people to find these fixes efficiently and cost effectively. I go by your test results and your excellent story, all details help; even when you think they are insignificant. #1- mileage #2-drove it, parked, then no start #3-coolant leak #4-good spark #5-compression test results. #6. You have experience doing timing belt on Toyota. It would not be a waste of time to take those covers off and have a peek. When you remove the crank pulley cover and you see timing belt teeth laying in there, your next trip will be to the parts store for a new belt and any associated parts you want to replace while in there i.E. Crank seal, water pump, pulleys, etc. Hope this helps my friend.
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Friday, July 6th, 2018 AT 9:40 PM
Tiny
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Update: I have spoken to a few mobile mechanics about fixing our Corolla and mentioned what I learned here (about the trouble probably being related to coolant getting onto the timing belt and causing it to jump a few teeth). Both of the mobile mechanics I talked to said that they thought the trouble would be more of a leaky head gasket issue but could come and change the timing belt and water pump if I wanted. However, the first mechanic I spoke with said that if the trouble was the head gasket, that it would not be worth doing it on this engine because with 167,000 miles, the bottom of the motor would probably fail once the compression was fixed? The second mobile mechanic also said that is likely to have happened so it may not be worth fixing this engine, and suggested getting a used one from the junk yard. Do not know if they are trying to get more money from me in an engine swap or if they just do not want to warranty their work. Anyway, I still feel pretty confident in your assessment that the trouble is related to the coolant getting on to the timing belt and caused it to jump and now we have the crank/no start. We are on a pretty limited income and my wife and I have been saving up the money for the fix, but the two mobile mechanics now have me wondering if it is smart to fix this engine if it is a head gasket issue. Also, if the coolant did get in and cause the timing belt to jump a few teeth, is there a common place to look and fix to prevent it from happening again? To save money my son and I can do the job but I do not want to fix a motor and have the bottom blow out like the the two mobile mechanics said. Does this happen to motors after fixing a head gasket on a high mileage motor?
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Sunday, August 5th, 2018 AT 2:04 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,959 POSTS
Any engine with 167,000 can have any problem so keep that in mind when doing repairs. I have seen engine get a head gasket at that mileage and be fine for another 70,000 and I have seen the opposite as well. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the timing belt:

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/toyota/corolla/1995

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, August 9th, 2018 AT 2:40 PM

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