1995 Cadillac trunk pull-down malfunction

Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • 1995 CADILLAC SEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 208,000 MILES

The trunk pull-down doesn't work on my 1995 Cadillac SLS. I've installed three (3) tested-good, used, replacement motors and none of them have worked. I've replaced the activation switch mounted on the trunk lid with a used one (don't know if it's good or not, don't know how to test it) and still no result. There are three wires going into the pull-down. One is power, one is ground. A voltmeter on these wires gives 12. Xx volts. Somebody told me that when you activate the trunk-lid-mounted switch the third wire becomes the active ground and the motor pulls down. This doesn't happen. There is no change when the trunk lid switch is activated.
Keith

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Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 AT 12:22 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 18,999 POSTS

Trunk switch in latched positon provides ground in unlatched provides power. This action reverses polarity of motor. Does trunk light come on?

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+2
Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

Yes, the trunk light comes on and goes off when the trunk lid switch is moved, as appropriate.

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Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
  • 18,999 POSTS

Suspect switch is faulty

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Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER

If you ground the striker on the motor assy. It should run down and you hear a click and it runs back up and clicks. If you close the trunk it stays up. Youll need to replace the pulldown switch on the motor assy.

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Tuesday, July 26th, 2011 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

Which part is the striker? The loop? If I understand correctly then, attach the plug to the motor and ground the striker (the loop) the motor will run down then up? I tried that--I wrapped a wire around the loop as tightly as I could then wrapped it around one of the bolts that holds the mounting plate (not the motor) to the trunk. It didn't work, so maybe I don't know what the striker is or maybe the motor is bad?

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Wednesday, July 27th, 2011 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER

The striker is the loop. Ground the loop and there is a small switch on the latch when you push it the motor will run up and down if it will not run and the motor is hot its staying on. You will have to replace the pull down switch on the motor assy. After you remove the switch. You need to unbolt the striker and remove it from the housing. Inspect the gear for being broken. If ok reassemble and install new pulldown switch.

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Wednesday, July 27th, 2011 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

OK, tried that, no result. The motor doesn't get hot because it doesn't run. I've looked for the pull down switch on GM parts on an official GM parts website, but no luck. It will sell me the whole actuator assembly for over $220. So, where do I find a switch or how can I fix the one I have? I disassembled my old one (not the supposedly working one). Where do you think the point of failure is? It looks pretty simple except for the resistor you can see in the top of it.

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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 11:16 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Those pics are not right. Remove the pulldown cover and check the pulldown, you will see a black switch on top of the motor assemably remove the switch and the striker from housing. Check for a broken gear. Then reassemable and replace the switch. Pick up a switch at the dealer.

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Saturday, July 30th, 2011 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

I think we're not communicating. The pull down is removed from the car--there is no pull down cover to remove. There is only one switch and it's just like the one I took apart and showed the pictures of above. Below is a picture of the "new" (used) pull down assembly, including the switch, and a picture of just the switch that I disassembled and took pictures of, above. It's just like the black switch on the assembly. I've had the original assembly completely apart and there are no other switches, just two connectors that go into the motor. Am I missing something?

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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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You need remove the striker from the plastic housing. Their is a plastic gear on the striker check if its broken then reassemble and replace the switch assy.

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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

There are indeed several broken teeth on the round gear attached to the striker. Interestingly the pull down worked as well as it could when installed in a different car (it wouldn't pull down very far because of the broken teeth). However, when installed in my car it does nothing. So there are at least two problems counting the broken gear. The trunk lid switch?

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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

More information: I put a spare gear into the pull down (from the old one) and it did extend when I reinstalled it. However, it won't go down. I removed the trunk lid switch and ran continuity tests on it. It has a black wire in the middle (gnd), an orange wire and a red wire (both power?). When it's "open, " i.E, when the trunk is open and the light is on, there is continuity between the orange wire and the black wire. There is no continuity between the red wire and the black wire at this time. When the switch is held "closed, " i.E. As if the trunk were closed, there is continuity between the black wire and the red wire, and none between the orange and the black.
Next I ran voltage tests on the connection side to the trunk lid switch. There are 12.54 volts at the orange wire when grounded to the black wire. There are no volts at the red wire when grounded to the black wire. There is continuity from the connection side to the connector at the pull down. Orange to orange, black to black, red to red. However, with the volt meter on the red and black at the pull down motor, I "close" the trunk lid switch and no voltage shows on the meter. It should, I believe, but it doesn't.
So, the switch appears to be trying to reroute power to the red wire, but no power flows. I checked all the fuses in the trunk and they're all good.

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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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You need to go get a new pulldown switch assy. And replace properly

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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

I understand that you think I should get a new switch. The question is, if the switch is bad why did the assembly function properly when installed in a different vehicle?

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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER

A new switch is no major investment.I must have replaced 1000 or so they would come in with the trunk not shutting sticks up. Youll need to replace the grease where the stripped gear was. It picks up pieces of the damaged gear and my lead to the new gear failing.

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+1
Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

Well I got a new switch and installed it. Still doesn't work. Now what?

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
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Oh, and when I had the switch off, I tested the motor. It goes up and down just fine by simply grounding one connection and providing power to the other. Reversing the polarity reverses the motor.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Youll need to put the switch on right. If you look back at the picture of the motor assy. Youll see the toggle to reverse polarity. It needs to be in between the 2 bent pieces on the striker. The way I did it was install the gear half way grease the housing install the striker in the housing. The switch slides into the housing. Then make sure the toggle on the switch is inbetween the 2 bent pieces on the striker. When you plug it in it should run up and it will click and shut off.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
KJHANSEN49
  • MEMBER

I put it together correctly. It's fairly obvious. It does go up when plugged into the fitting. It just won't come down when it's supposed to. I think it's supposed to work by routing power to the red wire that goes into the switch and cutting off the power to the orange switch. Only that doesn't happen.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 11:40 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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The striker is all the way down in the pic you sent me and the switch appears not to be down all the way on the motor connection. If you push the switch on the deck lid at the lock assy. It should run up and down. Check the switch and make sure the clip that holds the switch by the motor is locked on properly.

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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 5:15 PM

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