Have a 94 toyota.22re just had injectors replaced (venom injectors) now in the am its not holding fuel pressure over nite. I gotaa crank lil bit before it starts. Then when it does start it idles low n if I walk away it sputters n wants to die but if I go n give gas it corecects itself. During driving the truck the power surges in and out like its getting low fue pressure? But once I get like past 3000rpm power kicks in. Any thaughts
Well was comin home from camp. Bout 50 miles all highway. Wellsville ohio to youngstown. 5th gear goin down hills it would jump like full shuttin down n kickn in. Its eiths gass or no. Cant just hold pedal at certain speed it starts jerkin. So as I was gettin off the off ramp. Back at home n I herd huge back fire. Got to the red light n went to go it would **** like injector was turnin off n on as I was doin 1mph-40mph. If I let off gas it would back fire sometimes. I made it to storage unit to unload my quad. Barely. Holdin pedal almost 3/4 to go 30mph. I tried drivin for couple days but next morning I went to go to werk n didnt get 3 miles down road n loss of power had to hold pedal all way down to go 3mph. I shut off it wouldnt start unless I had pedal to grpund. I took to mechanic we came up with number 3 injector was bad? If I unplugd it it would turn the other 3 back on n truck ran ok. So I baught a set of python injectors bran new truck ran great n smooth for a week. Then on highway I felt like pulsating in pedal doin 65 power kickin in in out and this is where iam at now. The old injectors would fire soon as I touch key. These new ones I gotta crank lil bit before it fires. Sorry for the bad typing im not much of computer guy thank you for your time
December, 1, 2010 AT 10:44 PM
It almost sounds like new injectors have inherited the same problem as old ones? Or more issues are popping up coincidentally? You didn't specify mileage as high mileage usually means anything can go wrong with anything at anytime. A thorough check of the fuel system seems to be the first place to look. Have you ever changed the fuel pump?
December, 1, 2010 AT 11:27 PM
Yea its got about 120k . Yea changed during summer but had problem with fuel line. Return line had hole in fuel pump asmbly so I had to switch the return line with the breather. I hope that aint messing everything up. Shouldnt tho? Fuel pump n filter. I unplug the cold start injecter in the am in it wont start so I kno the cold start is working but when it starts in 20degree morning it used to rev like 2000 now it barely breakys 600 till motor warms up then it rises to 2000. Been racking my brain
December, 2, 2010 AT 12:59 AM
It sounds like there is no auto idle control working. It's normal for a cold motor to want to run slower than when warm. I always put new plugs in just before cold weather too. Bosch platinum is my choice in plugs.
December, 2, 2010 AT 1:42 AM
What excatly does a knock sensor do? Or tps sensor? I was even thinking computer? Im stumpd. Cuz as the truck warms up like half hr or driving the sputtering gets lil better. Sumtimes it dont do it at all n truck runs a1. Yea I like bosh to but sum reason it runs best on ngks.
December, 2, 2010 AT 1:45 AM
Another thing I talkd to venom injectors this afternoon they said they will service them n test them for free n fix I guess ill see what comes out of that. It just makes me wonder why now I have to crank over allot to start even when the venoms were 1 day old. My old denso factory I barly touchd key n shed start
December, 2, 2010 AT 9:16 AM
I forgot to say it's normal for a cold motor and that's why they put an idle control in to raise the idle during warmup! Tps sensor is the way the computer reads your gas pedal position. It can be tested with an ohmeter and must show no glitches or it's bad. It just reads a steady increase/decrease in resistance as you turn it. And yah, there's always the possibility of a faulty computer. Knock sensor tells computer to increase ignition timing to avoid pre-spark ignition. The knock (ticky) sound is like a diesel firing beating the spark to the punch you might say!
February, 10, 2011 AT 2:58 PM
Your problem is with the fuel regulator, your getting fuel but irregular pressures(surging), I know this post is old so hopefully you've gotten it fixed by know. Most of the time when its bad it will rev up up then down. Also with the knock sensor its either pass or fail-to check it get a screwdriver and put on the block and tap it with a hammer if the motor retards a bit after each tap than its doing its job. It is designed to kill motor and make for minimum damage in case of engine malfunction(rarely ever bad)
my geusses is feul pressure reg (80% of the time) or fuel pump (10%) or idle air control (10%)
February, 10, 2011 AT 3:09 PM
It should hold fuel preesure not necassarily ove rnight but for an hour or so, "but" the pressure naturely goes down but should not disappear completely. Over night as long as there is 4-5 lbs of pressure in the line than there is no air that has reversly been drawed into the line. If there is 0 pressure than 1. The fuel pressure regulator isn't doing its job 2. The check valve usually made inside the fuel pump(sometimes made on the hanger assembly) is letting the fuel backflow back in tank. If the pump is working but the check valve is at fault then this causes a hard start-slow to start issue. If the fuel pressure reg. Is at fault your injector can not work properly because they do not have sufficient pressure. If the fuel reg is bad its sending to much of the fuel that the pump sends to injectors back to the tank not letting the pressure rise to spec.