1994 Isuzu Trooper crank pulley removal

Tiny
WILLT720
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 ISUZU TROOPER
I am still trying to remove my crank pulley. I am using an oem timing gear puller and can not figure out how to use it. I am providing pics of the pulley I am removing and the tool I am using. Please help me figure out how to use the tool to remove my pulley.
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Monday, August 4th, 2014 AT 9:01 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The puller has 2 bolts of different length which is not going to work. If the pulley do not have any threaded holes for the puller, it is not going to work as well.

Most likely the puller is not required.
If you spray WD40 along the lines of the pulley and crank shaft and pulley, you should be able to tap the pulley out with a mallet. Do not tap too hard or it can damage the pulley.
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Monday, August 11th, 2014 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
LEE_M
  • MEMBER
To remove the crank pulley bolt from a 1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 liter DOHC V-6 engine I made a plywood crank pulley holder and I turned the crank pulley bolt with an extension pipe. You must wear safety gear and get bystanders away when unbolting the crank bolt.

The crank pulley bolts I have encountered on three Japanese engines (not counting the Studebaker V8s of my youth) are the tightest bolts I have ever met.

For the Isuzu crank pulley bolt, the torque needed was 300 or 400 ft. Lbs. I broke two pulley holder tools before the following plywood tool suvived the torque applied.

Be careful and don't touch the radiator fins at any time. The wood crank holder must be screwed tightly to the crank pulley using big fender washers to hold the plywood torque arm firmly against the pulley. Let the moving end of the 24" wood bear against the power steering pulley or the battery box.

Note the 8 mm bolt holes are on a 3.6" diameter circle inclined 45 degrees. The bolt holes must be rotated to give maximum material thickness to resist the torque forces.

I attach a sketch and here are the parts needed:
6" x 24" strip of 3/4" plywood.
2 pc. 8 mm diameter x 1.25mm pitch x 40 mm lth bolts
4 pc 8 mm or 3/8" fender washers or heavy pattern washers.

Drills: 11/32" for 8 mm. 1 3/8" hole saw for center hole.

Extension pipe, must fit over 1/2" square drive breaker bar.
Remove inner burrs from pipe to prevent forming a failure point in the breaker bar.
5" 1/2" extension bar. 15/16" socket to fit crank pulley bolt.
Nice to have:
Magnetic tooi in case you drop the 15/16" socket inside the pulley pocket.
8 mm x 1.25 mm pitch tap to clean the crank pulley bolt holes
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2015 AT 10:57 PM
Tiny
LEE_M
  • MEMBER
The length of the extension pipe I used was 4 ft. The pipe is called 1" schedule 40. It is nice to put a 1" cap on the end. Lubricate the crank bolt with WD-40 or other penetrating oil, carefully position the wrench and extension bar so you don't bash anything when the bolt breaks loose. When all set, put on safety gear. A broken wrench may launch a piece of metal shrapnel.
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Tuesday, January 27th, 2015 AT 11:13 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Question closed
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Friday, February 20th, 2015 AT 2:17 AM

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