1994 Ford Probe Car stalls after warmed up

Tiny
STLSTYLEE
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD PROBE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,000 MILES
I have a 94 Probe Gt, has 171000 on the clock. Recently has had alot of work done to it. I have replaced: timing belt, water pump, pulleys, power steering belt, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, mass air flow sensor and have eliminated the catalytic converter. The problem I am having is that the car will start and run, will warm up and idle down, but sometimes after about 10 15 minutes of driving it stalls. It seems like as soon as the motor gets hot something just gives up? When this happens I hear a pop(almost like a backfire, but from the motor not the back of the car) and the tach just drops to zero and it dies. It will not start back up until the motor is cool again. The car will crank and try to start but will not untill its cooled down. The car actually runs fantastic until this happens. I have been able to make my commute and back some days, but most of the time this is the issue I have. I just purchased a new IAC valve, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Thermostat, and Throttle Position Sensor which I have not installed yet. Could this problem be one of these items I have not replaced yet or something entirely different that I am not seeing?
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Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 AT 2:56 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
DAVE O.
  • MEMBER
I am shocked that there has been no replies to this post! Especially since my 94 4 cylinder base model does the exact same thing. Please can someone HELP !
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Saturday, July 23rd, 2011 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
PROBEABODE96
  • MEMBER
I'm having the exact same problem with my '96 probe gt with 215k on it (manual trans), but the only difference is mine's not making the popping noise you're talking about. Installing a new crank sensor might fix the problem, or try making sure the car doesn't have any vacuum leaks (i would do this first, since it's less expensive to fix). In the mean time, if yours is caused by the same problem mine's having, is it stalling while you're driving it with the throttle open or is it doing it when it's in neutral/idling? If it's only doing it in neutral, while idling, or between shifts if it's a manual, try what i've been doing to make it run a little longer: when the rpm drops, just use the throttle to try to get it back up to about 1000 rpm or a little higher. It'll keep it alive enough to not die. The most i've done that process for was a max of 5 minutes though, I wouldn't recommend adding anymore time, especially if it's due to a different reason than what i'm thinking it is (i.E. Overheating). Hope this helps.
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Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
NEAVEI
  • MEMBER
I am having exactly the same problem with my '94 probe gt with 170k (auto) as well. Mine dies when it gets warm. It will die while it's running regardless of what revs I am doing. I have checked and cleaned all electrical connectors, had the coil pack and distributor tested - all fine, checked the reset button on the fuel - all good, cleaned the face of the crankshaft position censor, fitted a new temperature sensor, fitted a new capacitor on the distributor.
I also tried cooling down the crankshaft position sensor when it died but it wouldn't start.
The problem is getting much worse. Now will not restart until it is cold.
The fans run flat out as soon as the key goes on. This might be a clue, but I can't decipher it.
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Saturday, September 24th, 2011 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
To: neavei

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing belt/chain.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 9:16 AM

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