You turn it with a big socket. Sorry, I know that sounds sarcastic, but what part of removing it is causing you frustration?
July, 16, 2012 AT 12:56 PM
INEEDED A NEW STRUT ONE OF ITS BOLTS WA S FOR SOME REASON FUSED ITO THE STEER KNUCKLE AFTER BUYING NEW POWER DRILL AND BITS, TOOKHOURS AND HOURS TO DRILL IT DRILL WANDERED AND GOT TOOCLOSE TOOUTSIDE--BURNED UP DRILL, DULLED 7 DRILL BITS OF DIFFERENT SIZES- DECIDED ONLY WAY TO FIX IT WAS REPLACE KNUCKLE. IT HAS BEENA HARD ROW TO HOE. I AM 7D2 AND AFEMALE-- THANK YOU SO MUCH. I DONT HAVE A SOCKET THAT BIG 23MM IS LARGEST I GUESS I HAVE TO PUT TIRE BACK ON AND LET JACK DOWN TO GET THE THING LOOSE. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP SHIRLEY IN CINCINNATI
July, 16, 2012 AT 7:55 PM
I wish you had come here sooner because I think I could have saved you a lot of sweat. I don't remember working on your car model specifically, but it has two bolts at the lower strut attaching point. That is a big improvement over the Ford-built Escorts of the '80s. A lot of GM front-wheel-drive cars used the same design but the bolts frustrated many people. To make matters worse, some of them only had two flats to fit an open end wrench instead of the six sides on a regular hex bolt. Those bolts can not be turned. They have serrations under the head that bite into the strut and hold it while you turn the nut. That style bolt is removed by pounding on the threaded end. If you plan on reusing them, turn the nut around, install it backward just two or three threads and pound on it. That will prevent damaging the threads. Most mechanics install new bolts and one of them is skinnier and is called a "cam bolt". It has no serrations under the head and is meant to be loosened and rotated when the car is being aligned. Turning it tips the wheel in or out on top to adjust "camber" to a very precise setting for best tire wear and handling.
I don't remember if I ever found those bolts with serrations on a Ford so if yours don't have them the bolts might just be rusted tight. That doesn't happen real often but when it does you just have to pound on them until they give up and move. If pounding doesn't work it means you need a bigger hammer. There were times I had to resort to an air hammer. Another approach is to soak the threads with a rust penetrant. "PB Blaster" is a popular product, and there are others out there. I use "Rust Penetrant" from the Chrysler dealer because I am very familiar with it. I was the suspension and alignment expert at a very nice Chrysler dealership for ten years. That stuff will sizzle and will do in ten minutes what WD-40 will do in a weekend.
The next thing I was afraid you were going to say was something to the effect of "I GUESS I HAVE TO PUT TIRE BACK ON AND LET JACK DOWN TO GET THE THING LOOSE". There are two things to be aware of. First of all, stick a large screwdriver, punch, or small wrench into one of the slots in the brake rotor. That will bang up against the mount for the brake caliper and hold the rotor and axle from turning when you turn the axle nut. The second and most important thing is you must never allow the vehicle's weight to be supported by the wheel bearing when that nut is not fully tightened. If you set it down on the tire to hold the axle from turning, then loosen the nut, you will have instantly damaged the bearing. That will make it noisy and it will sound like an airplane engine when you're driving.
You'll need a click-type torque wrench to tighten that nut to the specified setting. The range of specs is around 180 to 240 foot pounds. 200 foot pounds is a common spec. That nut is on the end of the short shaft that is part of the outer CV joint. Together they hold the wheel bearing together.
July, 17, 2012 AT 6:33 PM
Yes I should have come to you however my son in law with large sledge type hammer beat on nut- both my dasughters took turns, my grandson did his part by poundinh on it one can of pb blaster over two weeks time I sat and counted 500 times I hit it withhammer altogether. All we succeeded in doing was flatten out the bolt sticking out so that it was now too big for the hole I used a grinder to remove bolt head and bolt end that was sticking out after thinking itover decided that putting weight on knuckle was not the thing to do
i put wrench on lug nut and wrench on half shaft nut--one going one way one going the other should work as soon as I get strut in place I could have given 50.00 for a drill bit that would go through that metal ha ha junk yard only wants 20.00 for another knuckle with the holes already in it. Have to get rear trailing link anyway--100 new--10 at jacks u pull-rear strut bad evidently broke it. Luck is not with me. Thank you so much for your concern. I just invented a bedbug trap that works so good I am amazed by it. Been trying for three years to get something that works well. I am in process of patenting it. This thing is very simple and works so fast in four days 90% of bugs were gone in this one home. You have to keep after them however---takes up to 17 days for all the little zillions of eggs to hatch one female lays around 500 of them would you like to be a distributor for them in your area? How well wouldl you say they might sell? Remember this thing actually kills the bugs just sitting there on the floor. You dont have to throw anything away. Bugs re attracted by the trap design and the poowder in the trap kills on contact. I figure about $45.00 per trap you may have just met a new millionaire. Have a great day shirley smead in dayton ky just across the pond from cincinnati