Jeep Wrangler

The crank pulley has to make 2 turns for the distributor to make one turn.
If you turn the crankshaft only one revolution, it would end up 180 degrees off.

YEAH!---WHAT HE SAID!

IF YOU ARE STILL CONFUSED---MAYBE HE CAN EXPLAIN IT DIFFERENTLY!

THIS IS WHY ITS CALLED 4 STROKE and THE REASON YOUR CAM GEAR HAS TWICE THE TEETH THAT THE CRANK-GEAR HAS!

GET 'EM KHLow2008

CAN YOU TELL THERE ARE NO CJs FOR ME TO ANSWER (GUESS ALL OF 'EMs FIXED NOW), AND I AM BORED, NOW, ON THIS, MY 47TH BIRTHDAY?

ALSO ABOUT TIRED OF THE "SITE" NOT BEING "USER FRIENDLIER". DIFFICULT TO TRACK DOWN A "REPLIED TO POST"--THEY AIN'T-A-MOVIN' TO THE TOP, NOR ARE THEY HIGHLIGHTED

DIDN'T MEAN TO BE IN YA'LLS WAY

MERRY CHRISTMAS ANYWAY!

THE MEDIC

Snatch off the Distributor cap, see if you can make the Button/ Shaft turn 180/ 360 with MILD FORCE. Its normal to have CW/CCW small slop. Just not keep on going!

I have seen the "Roll Pin" holding the gear on the bottom of the Distributor shaft---SHEAR and allow the shaft to turn without an "INDEX"

Even sheared, the pins ends are still showing as if it were NOT NOW 3 pieces instead of one piece it should be! (Are you totally confused yet?)

Even the gear might appear tight on the shaft, but its really Stubbornly free-wheeling!

Your Turn

The Medic

Surely, we're not selling OUR BABY!

How much---how close to me are you!

The Medic

Now you got me a doubting!

OK, how are you determining you are on TDC, on compression stroke?

Are you just turning the engine till the Timing Marks are lined up on "ZERO" (I think this is what KHLow2008 mighta thought you was a doin') then stickin' the Dist. In, and pointin' it at #1?

If this be the case--we mean there are 2 times that "zero" will come up in 1 cycle

The way I determine which one is COMING UP, TOWARD the correct timing mark ( which time it will be on the CORRECT Zero or "TDC")

I remove #1 spark-plug

Next, either I use a Remote Starter or a Remote Buddy to "BUMP" the engine around while I have my thumb or finger crammed into JUST THE BEGINNING OF THE #1 HOLE

Exhaust Stroke (or 1st time the Marks Zero together) will just pass on by. Cause the exhaust valve is open and no compression pressure can build behind your thumb.

But when Compression stroke comes up, your thumb cannot hold back 150 lbs of pressure. It will make a huge spitting sound by your thumb as it begins compression strokeat that point you QUIT with the bumping

All you gotta do now, is: in the same direction the crank was turning----its now on compression stroke, headed for TRUE TDC----when the compression stoke ends (as you continue, manually turning a wrench or socket on the crank, to "ZERO")

You are fully at compression PEAK (this point is "TDC", and if it passes that Zero the slightest bit, your piston is heading down on "POWER STROKE" (the stroke Or CYCLE, that should be occurring, after the SPARK IGNITES THE COMPRESSED FUEL MIXTURE).

Strokes:

POWER (starts at TDC)---

EXHAUST---

INTAKE (starts 180 degrees from TDC)---

COMPRESSION

"TOP DEAD CENTER" [TDC] is when you install the Distributor, when you have the Oil Pump lined up, and the distributor Seats Down fully. The ROTOR BUTTON should be a Pointin' at #1 Tower on your Distributor. This is sorta "SPARK CALIBRATION FOR THE SYSTEM"!

ARE WE ON THE SAME PAGE---or am I lost--or Am I, not explaining this to the best of my ability?

YOUR TURN!

The Medic