Cluster lights

Tiny
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  • 1993 CHRYSLER LE BARON
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,600 MILES

My dimmer switch does not function properly on my 93 lebaron convertible. I saw a question asked about this and it mentioned an interior cluster fuse. Where exactly is that located?

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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 3:22 PM

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Tiny
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Elaborate on "not function properly". That doesn't mean much.

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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
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The dimmer doesn't work but the interior light comes on at the top position. Could an interior cluster fuse be the problem and if so how do I check it.

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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
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What's the symptom? Do the dash lights not turn on? Are they too bright and don't go dimmer? Does the radio display vary in brightness or is it full brightness all the time? Do the tail lights work? Have you recently installed an aftermarket radio? Do you have the digital display or the regular instrument cluster?

If the tail lights work but the back lighting lamps for the instrument cluster and various switches are not illuminated, check fuse # 8, a 5 amp. As I recall, the fuse box is under the steering column. If the fuse is good, suspect the Body Computer.

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Sunday, July 31st, 2011 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
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Neither the instrument panel nor the temperature module backlights come on at all. The wiper delay doesn't work either. The tail lights do work.

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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
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Did you check fuse # 8?

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Internet provider was down again yesterday for the entire day.

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Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
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Checked the fuse and it was ok. Where is the body computer located and how do I check it?

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Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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Grab a test light or voltmeter and see if there's voltage on fuse 8.

Next, the Body Computer lives behind the right kick panel. I only have a '94 service manual but it should be the same. Let me know if something is different. Check for voltage on the brown wire to pin 8. It should have 12 volts all the time. Check for voltage on the orange / black wire, pin 10. That voltage should vary depending on where the dimmer is set. If both of those circuits are okay, check for voltage on the orange wire, pin 22. If no voltage shows up there, suspect the computer.

A fast way to verify all the rest of the circuitry is working is to jump pins 8 and 22 together. That will bypass the computer and the back lights should turn on full brightness.

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Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
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Also, the wiper works on Low and Hi but the delay doesn't work. Is that the same issue?

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Saturday, August 6th, 2011 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
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The Body Computer is involved with the delayed wipers. The low and high speeds go directly from the switch to the motor assembly.

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Saturday, August 6th, 2011 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
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So replacing the dimmer and wiper delay switches will not solve that problem, or replacing the entire bezel that these controls are on?

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Sunday, August 7th, 2011 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
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Chances are two switches for two different things didn't fail at the same time. It's way more likely something they have in common failed. That's the Body Computer or a fuse that feeds it.

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Sunday, August 7th, 2011 AT 9:25 PM
Tiny
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So replacing the computer should do the trick.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
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Also, does it need to be programmed or can I replace it myself

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
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Just by chance, would the turn signal/hi lo beam switch have anything to do with the BCM as well?

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
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The Body Computer has inputs from those switches but that doesn't mean it will necessarily prevent them from working. I'm working with a '92 service manual which should be the same. They show a relay block which was known to cause problems on Daytonas. That block has relays for low beam head lights, high beam head lights, one for each of the four signal lights, etc.

You can replace the Body Computer yourself but there is a real important warning. If your car has the factory-installed anti-theft system, any used computer with the right part number will work and you don't have to read any further. If you don't have the factory anti-theft system, you must find a used computer from another car that also did not have that system. This pertains to Dynastys, Intrepids, and Neons. I'm not sure if it applies to your car, but here's a copy / paste version of what can happen:

If you DO have the anti-theft system, you can use any Engine or Body Computer from the salvage yard, but from then on, that computer will only work on another car that also has the anti-theft system. DO NOT borrow a friend's computer if his car doesn't have the anti-theft system.

Both computers have anti-theft programming that can not be undone. If your car does NOT have the anti-theft system, you must find a used computer from a donor car that also did not have anti-theft, and that can be impossible to find out from the salvage yard since there's no easy way to tell unless the car was running when it was brought in. Even then, they might not have bothered to find out.

When you install either the Body Computer or the Engine Computer with anti-theft programming into your car without anti-theft, the new computer will teach it to the other one. A Body Computer will teach it to the Engine Computer or a replacement Engine Computer will teach it to the Body Computer. At that point the car will not start because both computers are waiting for the disarm signal that's never coming. Both computers will have to be replaced at the same time. If you just replace one of them, it will immediately learn the anti-theft programming from the other one as soon as the ignition switch is turned on.

If you buy a remanufactured Body Computer from the dealer, it will come without the anti-theft programming. It will work in any car as soon as it is installed and will self-program itself for anti-theft only if the system is on the car, when it learns it from the Engine Computer.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
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That's good info, I really appreciate that.

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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 8:45 PM
Tiny
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So before I go purchase a voltmeter, no voltage on fuse 8 means computer problem? What if there is voltage?

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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
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Voltage on fuse 8 is required to run parts of the Body Computer. If it is missing, we have to figure out why. If the fuse is blown, replacing it might get the dead circuits working. If it blows again, the Body Computer is shorted internally, (rare), or the wire going to it is rubbed through and grounded. If voltage is present on both sides of the fuse, the problem is most likely the computer itself. That's the most common cause of dead circuits but it would be extremely unprofessional to just throw a new computer at the problem without checking the supply voltages first.

For this test, a test light will work fine. There are two tiny holes in the top of each fuse that give you access to the test points. If you buy a digital voltmeter, don't waste your money on fancy features you'll never use. I have about a dozen meters that I used in tv and car radio repair and the most I paid was $40.00. You can find an inexpensive meter at Harbor Freight Tools for about eight bucks, and as low as $2.99 on sale.

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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
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You're the first one of these guys that knew what he was talkin bout! I replaced the BCM and now my panel lights are working and the dimmer switch works as well. But the wiper delay doesn't work so I would assume it is the switch.

Thanks alot

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Sunday, August 28th, 2011 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
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Happy to hear you have lights again.

You can try a wiper switch if you can find a used one at the salvage yard, but I'm sorry I have to suggest the new Body Computer is a better suspect. Check for voltage on two wires in its black connector. There should be some voltage, varying according to the delay setting, on the white / black wire, fifth from one end of the longer row of pins, and there should be something going on with the dark green / white wire on the other end of the shorter row of pins. I have the correct service manual now, but the diagram doesn't make clear exactly what voltage to expect. As near as I can tell, you should find 12 volts there when the ignition switch is on.

That white / black wire appears to be the key. If the voltage varies there depending on where the delay wiper switch is set, suspect the Body Computer again.

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Sunday, August 28th, 2011 AT 9:10 PM

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