1993 Chevy Blazer lossing pressure

Tiny
COCKROACH
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 151,000 MILES
Ok I just bought this car knowing there was problems but thought they were going to be easier. Problem: when I drive and go to apply the brake it catches for a moment, then the brake petal falls to the floor and the brake light comes on. If I release the brake the light stays on till I tap the brake again. There isnt enough braking power to stop me going 45 unless I apply the brakes, then release then, then apply again several times. There is enough braking power to keep me stopped once I get it slowed down and enough to hold me still at a light. Ive had the brakes applied while listening to the master cylinder and I can hear what sounds like air coming back into the resoviour. Any help would be apprechiated
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Monday, August 11th, 2008 AT 7:53 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Quit driving it-Replace the brake master cylinder and bleed the system properly need more help ask and you shall receive-its not worth it-
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Tuesday, August 12th, 2008 AT 3:47 AM
Tiny
GEOFF_MILLER
  • MEMBER
I am also having this problem and ive replaced the master cylinder and bled everything with no luck still goes to the floor help?
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Inspect the brakes pads and shoes make sure its adjusted right if all okay time to check the ABS unit and the Combination valve-
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 1:34 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Rebleed the master cyl. Again. You didnt do it right
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 1:40 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Make sure you tight the lines before you take your foot off the brake.
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 1:43 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
THIS IS HOW I DO IT

My Bench bleeding ain't on the bench...it's on the vehicle!

Much EZer that way!

This can be done on the vehicle (my preference) using two people, one pumping and one monitoring the Master Cylinder.

I wrap string loops around the little hoses and tie a knot, as to keep the tubes from blowing off of the plastic adapters.

I take it one step further, by squeezing the little hoses with my fingers (as if I were a check valve) The VERY SLOW PUMPING OF THE PEDAL will push the fluid into the reservoir, SCOOTING BY MY PINCHING, but the pinch will not allow it TO S.UCK AIR BACK, as you see in the beginning of this video....My way makes things faster, but if you did not tie the hoses to the adapters--THEY WILL BLOW LOOSE (lots of adjectives will be bust loose out of your mouth!)

This is very similar to my way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3Jhbz4mVKw&feature=related

xbleeding

This is the basic bleeding procedure I use:

KEEP FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR AT ALL TIMES/ CONSTANTLY CHECKING!

START WITH FURTHEST OUT WHEEL CYLINDER, FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WORKING TO THE CLOSEST (RR, LR, RF, LF)

2 PEOPLE, ONE PUMPING, OTHER BLEEDING AND REFILLING

#1 man is the Bleeder

#2 man is the Pump Man

1-MAN BREAKS BLEEDER LOOSE-SNUGS IT BACK YELLS, "PUMP IT UP"

2 MAN-PUMPS 6-8 TIMES (YELLS "PUMPING") THEN HOLDS PEDAL--YELLS, "HOLDING"

1-MAN CRACKS BLEEDER...AIR/ FLUID SPURTS OUT

2-MAN YELL, "FLOOR", JUST BEFORE THE PEDAL, ACTUALLY HITS THE FLOOR

1-MAN TIGHTENS THE BLEEDER....WHILE IT IS STILL SPURTING OUT (NOT AFTER IT STOPS...OR IT WILL SUCK AIR BACK IN).....THEN YELLS, "OKAY---PUMP IT UP"

PROCESS STARTS OVER UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED, WITH EACH WHEEL

THIS DOES NOT MATTER WHETHER THEY ARE DRUM BRAKES OR DISC.

ON DRUM BRAKES:

YOU SHOULD ALREADY HAVE THE SELF-ADJUSTERS PUSHING THE SHOES CLOSE TO THE DRUMS, SHOES SLIGHTLY TOUCHING THE DRUMS , BEFORE YOU DO THE BLEEDING PROCEDURE.....THIS WILL KEEP YOU PEDAL AT THE TOP AND TIGHT.

I PREFER THIS OVER USING THE ONE MAN, HOSE AND CUP, METHOD WHERE YOU SUBMERGE THE HOSE AND PUMP....TO ME THIS IS FASTER AND MUCH EZer.

IS THIS THE WAY YOU APPROACHED YOURS?

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 3:02 AM

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