T15 or T20 torx driver to remove one recessed screw under the steering column that holds the cover to the column, and three shorter torx screws that hold the two halves of the cover together. The two halves snap apart. You'll need tamper-proof torx bits for the three screws that hold the ignition switch to the column. There is a small silver roll pin on the right side very near where the key slides in. Insert the key, then push that roll pin in as far as it will go, about 3/16". That will release the lock cylinder but you might have to turn the switch. (I can't remember).
Look at the round cam on the end of the cylinder to see if it is cracked or loose. If it is, the switch will not turn quite far enough to crank the engine. The dealer's parts department has a repair kit for that. You will have to drill a hole and insert the provided roll pin. When you reinstall the cylinder, turning it to the crank position will push the retaining roll pin back out.
Look also for a melted section in the black plastic electrical connector. Sometimes two terminals overheat. They can be cut out of the connector body, then two crimp-type terminals can be plugged in individually. Solder the wires to the terminals. Don't rely on just the crimp for a good electrical connection. If the wires are hard from being overheated, cut off about 4" and splice in a new section of the same diameter. These terminals, wires, and the switch contacts overheat most commonly in vehicles where the drivers use the heater fan on the highest setting a lot.
November, 24, 2010 AT 12:32 PM
Not lock, the electrical sw itself
November, 24, 2010 AT 4:10 PM
That's what I listed. You either have to remove the cylinder to transplant it to the new switch or use a screwdriver to to turn the new switch.
There are two equally common problems. You didn't say what the symptom was so I covered both of them. If the starter doesn't engage, replacing the switch won't help. You must repair or replace the lock cylinder. If the radio, heater fan, and power windows are dead intermittently, burned switch contacts are often only half of the problem. Burned connector terminals will add resistance to the circuit which will lead to heat buildup and a repeat failure of the switch.
November, 25, 2010 AT 12:38 AM
Ok I found that I did indeed need you instructions and special torx drivers to replace ign sw. All rods and lefers seem to move exactly the way new one functioned.
My symptom is the veh will run great for a while. Minutes to hours and then die. After which it may or may not start right up. At times it has taken more than an hr for it to restart. Sometimes when it does restart it feels like pre-ignition and may or may not clear itself with added throttle. Sometimes added throttle makes it feel as if chocked out and it may or may not clear and run well with quickly adding and releasing throttle. Using starting fluid it would struggle to kick over with a pre-ignition sympom a few times and then ran very well for 2 10 start stop cycles normaly at third stop was runing fine till went to restart and then starting fluid got it running for about 400 feet and then no start at all. Also no more starting fluid. Have fuel pressure at rail. Just filled tank with premium at very large volume station and added bottle chevron fuel sys cleaner. Cam shaft Poss sensor? Intermitant? This issue has gone on for about 3 weeks. Since i've had to wire in a sstarter position bypass sw it was my guess (hope) the ig sw was bad. Ive also noticed a possible slight loss in power or shift match as seems at times engine has a harder time out putting the same power in regularly traveled routes