T15 or T20 torx driver to remove one recessed screw under the steering column that holds the cover to the column, and three shorter torx screws that hold the two halves of the cover together. The two halves snap apart. You'll need tamper-proof torx bits for the three screws that hold the ignition switch to the column. There is a small silver roll pin on the right side very near where the key slides in. Insert the key, then push that roll pin in as far as it will go, about 3/16". That will release the lock cylinder but you might have to turn the switch. (I can't remember).
Look at the round cam on the end of the cylinder to see if it is cracked or loose. If it is, the switch will not turn quite far enough to crank the engine. The dealer's parts department has a repair kit for that. You will have to drill a hole and insert the provided roll pin. When you reinstall the cylinder, turning it to the crank position will push the retaining roll pin back out.
Look also for a melted section in the black plastic electrical connector. Sometimes two terminals overheat. They can be cut out of the connector body, then two crimp-type terminals can be plugged in individually. Solder the wires to the terminals. Don't rely on just the crimp for a good electrical connection. If the wires are hard from being overheated, cut off about 4" and splice in a new section of the same diameter. These terminals, wires, and the switch contacts overheat most commonly in vehicles where the drivers use the heater fan on the highest setting a lot.
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Wednesday, November 24th, 2010 AT 7:31 AM