I have a 92 grand voyager 3.3 ltr was driving along I think it went into limp mode.I pulled over the side of the road, and shut the car off. Tried to restart it, the motor turns over fine no fire. Codes that flashed are 27, and 43( twice). Please help guide me, when I get my check on the first ill make a donation
Limp mode is when it defaults to second gear for a transmission problem. What symptoms did you observe?
The two codes suggest a problem with the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor.
October, 25, 2012 AT 8:30 PM
I just installed a new camshaft and cranksensors
October, 25, 2012 AT 9:24 PM
As for symtoms it seemed like it was running on half the power of the motor with no miss fire. And when you tried to accelerate it would not it, it was like there was no throttle at all. I had been traveling at 65mph and it all of a sudden acted like this and when I pulled over and shut it off it would not restart.
October, 26, 2012 AT 8:01 PM
That's not how cam and crank sensors typically act while driving but they will cause a no-start condition. Was there a paper spacer or a thin plastic rib on the end of the crank sensor to set the air gap? That gap is critical.
The next thing would be to use a scanner that displays live data to view those two sensors. They will be listed as "no" or "present" during cranking. You can also get an idea if they're working by measuring the voltage coming from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That will be the dark green / orange wire at the coil pack, any injector, or on the back of the alternator. You should see 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch, and it should come back during engine rotation, (cranking or running). Digital voltmeters often don't respond fast enough to catch it that first one second but a test light will. If the voltage doesn't come back during cranking, it's related to those two sensors.
October, 27, 2012 AT 8:01 PM
Yes They both have the paper spacers.I didn't remove them.
But after the 10-25-12 question!I went back and removed the crank sensor with an old one and it started didn't run perfect but I made it to AutoZone, and exchanged the new bad one for a another one. When I got back home and the van off it, wouldn't start back up. Even after I put the brand new sensor on.I don't have any 12v in either key on, or in start poss. Where does the coil and injectors get their 12v from?
October, 27, 2012 AT 10:12 PM
That 12 volts comes from the automatic shut. Down relay. Reread my last reply. That voltage has to be measured while cranking the engine, not just with the ignition switch in the "run" position. There must be 0 volts on that dark green / orange wire when the engine is not rotating. That is what turns the fuel pump off if a fuel line is ruptured in a crash.
There are actually three systems; the ignition / coil system, the fuel supply / injectors, and the trigger circuit that tells the computer to turn both of them on through the ASD relay. By far most problems originate in the trigger circuit. That's the cam and crank sensors. You won't have spark but it will look like you have fuel pressure thanks to that one second the pump runs each time you turn on the ignition switch.
If you do find there is 12 volts on the dark green / orange wire during cranking, THEN you have either a spark or fuel problem. Based on your observation the engine ran with the old sensor, I'm not inclined to think there's a fuel pump or ignition coil problem.
October, 28, 2012 AT 10:28 PM
I had changed both fuel pump, and coil about 3 weeks ago. They been working fine up till now. Unless one of them went bad.I don't have 12v at turning key To run poss, or when I turn it to start either. Since both crank and cam sensors are both new what else what else should I check. What fuse #? All fusable links@Zzz check out.
October, 29, 2012 AT 8:40 PM
Do I understand you do not get 12 volts for one second at any injector or the coil pack after turning on the ignition switch? If that is right, try it with a test light instead of a voltmeter. Many digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough to catch that short blip but you will see it with a test light.
If you still don't see the 12 volts, remove the relay and test for 12 volts on the automatic shutdown relay's socket. There must be voltage all the time on either terminal 30 or 87. Sorry, I can never remember which one. If neither one has voltage, a fuse is blown. The most common cause is a wiring harness to the oxygen sensor fell down onto hot exhaust parts and a wire melted through the insulation and shorted to ground.
If you do find 12 volts, either the relay is defective, the Engine Computer isn't turning it on, or your test probe isn't making good contact where you're measuring. Switch the relay with another one like it such as the AC compressor relay, or put your fingertip on it to feel if it clicks when a helper turns on the ignition switch.