I DID see that question earlier but the only thing I can help with is the starter circuit. Do you understand basic electrical theory, know how to wire a switch, and just need to know where to connect it, or do you need a more in-depth explanation?
This page will explain how the Ford starter circuits work:
and this page explains how to test them:
The test procedure in the second paragraph on the second page is what you want to do but instead of a jumper wire, you want to put a switch there. The red wire I mention can also be found inside the truck because it's the one coming right off the ignition switch. Under the hood they usually have a blue stripe on the wire. Can't say that for sure under the dash because I haven't worked on that many Fords. The other switch terminal goes to something that is always on. There will be at least one wire like that going up to the ignition switch, or you can usually find something to tap into in the fuse box.
You would have to add a second switch for the ignition system, what you referred to as the kill switch. There's going to be other switched circuits that may use entirely different ignition switch contacts and you'll need another switch for that circuit, or a double-pole switch. (That's like two built into one). You can prove this by the fact the radio plays in the "Accessory" position but the engine won't run. Power windows, heater fan, wiper motor, and things like that are powered through the ignition switch. Some work in the accessory position and some don't, so you know there has to be at least two different circuits.
Your Acclaim is a good example that I'm much more familiar with. The ignition switch can develop overheated contacts, especially when people use the heater fan on the highest speed a lot. That high current overheats the switch contacts and if it gets bad enough that entire circuit will go dead. That includes the radio, power windows, and the heater fan, but the engine will continue running just fine because it's on a different circuit in the ignition switch.
I can think of a way to wreck the steering wheel lock but I would never do it on my cars for liability reasons. If it ever caught and locked the steering while driving there could be a disaster and a lawsuit. I have a much better idea though. Head to one of the pick-your-own-parts salvage yards and get a different steering column and just do the swap. You'll get a good lock cylinder but just be sure to get one with the keys still in the truck. Usually they get lost.
If you're anywhere between Ohio and southern Georgia, there's a nice chain of yards called "Pull-A-Part". You pay your buck, throw your toolbox in one of their wheel barrows, and you can spend all day there. Parts are REAL inexpensive, customers and employees are very friendly, and the yards are extremely clean and well-organized. You can do an internet search of all their sites to see which ones have vehicles like yours. The only thing they can't tell you is colors, optional equipment, and what has already been removed. They have about two dozen yards; I've been to 16 of them and found little trinkets for my '88 Grand Caravan daily driver and my 'stored '93 Dynasty. Even found some spare parts for my '80 Volare.
They list a steering column without tilt for less than 26 bucks with a warranty and $20.10 without a warranty. This is just a partial list. Tilt columns aren't listed. You'll spend more than that on a switch heavy enough to handle the current for the starter circuit and the gas to go get it.
Saturday, September 15th, 2012 AT 7:07 AM