WHY WON'T MY '92 START AND WHAT DO I TEST/TRY TO FIX NEXT?
1992 Honda Civic
May, 15, 2012 AT 12:32 AM
'92 Civic LX 220K+ miles. Was running fine for a long time. Not sure if the following is relevant but. I drive the car every day. Last month I went 2 days without starting it, and when I went to start it, it acted like it might not start but did. Every day after that it started like normal. I noticed then if I didn't start it for 1 day, it would 'almost' not start the following day. So I go on vacation for a week. I come back and it won't start period.
I put in new spark plugs, new wires, distributor cap and rotor. Nada. I'm 98% sure I did all this correctly (this is the first time I ever have done any of this). It wants to start SO BAD but won't, it's SO CLOSE. I can't describe it, after I put in the Dist. Cap and rotor, it felt like it DID start for a second there, and the engine was in this 'no man's land' between fully engaged and almost engaged for a second or 2.
Could anyone point me in the direction of additional troubleshooting or diagnostics? My friend who was with me the first day said I was getting a spark from the starter (or something similar).
If the problem is fuel, what do I do, and what do I test for? What's next on the list of troubleshooting and things to try?
Also, I'm new to all of this and love learning about this stuff as I go along, and would like to test and try new repairs to get my chops going (especially if it will save me some $$$$$)
If you actually had a spark coming from the starter, either the starter is bad or the positive battery cable is not connected correctly. Check it for a good tight metal to metal corrosion free fit and do the same with the negative cable.
I am going to give you a walk through diagnostic for your situation if that is not the problem. Also, you might have a failing battery. Batteries can hold a charge but when put under load the voltage drops. This is due to a cell failing in the battery. You can test this by checking the battery voltage when you try to start the car. You could also take the battery to Advance Auto or Auto Zone to rule it out. The walk through will continue the process of eleimination into the most likely causes. So, use the link below and follow it thouroughly.
To check it properly you will need some equipment that you may no have. Start out by trying to put the car in clear flood mode. Holt the gas pedal all the way down to the flore and crank the engine for about 10 second and see it that gets it running.
May, 15, 2012 AT 1:31 AM
I tried starting it jumped to another running car (i noticed battery power was low). No dice. Flood mode start didnt work. When I turn the car on I hear the "hummmmm" of the fuel pump (it is the fuel pump right?). Ive heard problems about the relay, especially when its hot. What is this and how do I check if thats the problem? Whats the difference between a relay and a fuse? If I hear that 'hummmm' when I turn the car on is the relay the problem?
May, 17, 2012 AT 2:04 PM
Whats huming? A relay uses low curent to turn on a hi curent. Fuse is a protection part. To check the fuel pump you will need to check fuel psi. Asuming there is voltage @ the pump
May, 17, 2012 AT 2:38 PM
Does anyone know where I can get a cheap fuel pressure gague for this? Everyone I find is $40 and if I'm going to buy one, I might as well have a shop diagnose the problem for $80. Im looking for one for around $20 or so. Will shops let you rent their parts or borrow them or can someone point me in the right direction?
May, 17, 2012 AT 5:08 PM
Some parts stores will rent them
May, 22, 2012 AT 12:15 AM
Checked pressure, consistent 44 psi. Fuel pump and filter are fine.
May, 22, 2012 AT 6:17 AM
If you have spark and fuel psi see if you have inj pulse. You will need a noid light or a scope to check this. Noid lights are cheap.
May, 22, 2012 AT 11:20 PM
Can this also be checked with an ohmeter as per the service manual?
May, 23, 2012 AT 1:25 AM
I checked the resistence across all injectors and all are within spec.