Check engine light from codes 558 and 332.

Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD BRONCO
  • 256,000 MILES
I have replaced EGR Sensor (voltage output now has wider range over its travel than with old sensor.) And vacuum solenoid (I think the old one was fine, but needed to eliminate a variable). EGR valve works well when I manually suck on vacuum port (engine dies at idle when EGR opens.) When I removed the EGR it seals well when closed. Cannot suck any air through it when closed. Not frozen. Moves and seals freely. It has about 40,000 miles on it. When I drive at 75 mph I get no vacuum past solenoid. I get full vacuum to upstream side of solenoid, but solenoid will not open. Ever. I checked with a vacuum gauge while flying down freeway. Solenoid has 12v present with key on, engine off. When I reset codes, the codes return before engine leaves the idle position, which leads me to believe it set codes without even giving the EGR system a chance to fail. Help.
Monday, September 26th, 2011 AT 9:15 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
PROMECHANIC
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Have you checked to make sure that you are getting the right amount of vacuum to the solenoid?
I would inspect the vacuum hoses very carefully. Most of the time these hoses go bad.
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Monday, September 26th, 2011 AT 10:53 PM
Tiny
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Also check the "tomato can". These cause lots of problems.
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Monday, September 26th, 2011 AT 10:57 PM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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Tomato can holds good vacuum. No loss after 1 minute. Have about 17" Hg vacuum at solenoid and at tomato can. In tracing the vac line, what do the two tees go to just upstream from the solenoid?
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Tuesday, October 4th, 2011 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
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Any of the red lines should be vac source from the manifold. The black lines go to the various vacuum controlled devices (such as the EGR valve).
You should have a vac diagram on somewhere in the engine compartment. It might be rubbed through though.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 1:44 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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I have now replaced vac line from manifold to tomato can and from tomato can to first of the two tees (these are located on the right side of the modules (whatever they are) that are immediately to the right of the coil. Before the tees there is 17" Hg. When I reconnect vac line to the two tees and check after that there is almost zero vac. What are these tees connected to? All the vac seems to be used up by those modules. This was not an issue before yesterday. After the tees, there is no vac left to the solenoid for the EGR. (A few days ago, I had plenty of vac here.)
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 2:33 AM
Tiny
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Which engine do you have?
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 3:09 AM
Tiny
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Let me know which engine you have and I can look it up. Here is some more info that might help
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/826382
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 3:30 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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I have a 5.8 Fuel injected. One of the modules the tees go to is labeled TAD. I should be getting good vac past the tees, but am only getting 1" Hg there. Before the tees I now get 20" Hg. I can run a wire through the tops of these tees, so they are not clogged. The TAD module is one of two similar modules that have a vac line from the tomato can, via the vac tee, and each also has a yellow line going elsewhere.
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 2:09 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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Correction: the TAD module has a yellow vac line going elsewhere, but the other module has a pink line going to some type of valve in the managed air system on the other side of the engine.
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Thursday, October 6th, 2011 AT 5:51 AM
Tiny
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You need to check the TAD and TAB solenoids to make sure they are holding vacuum. It sounds like they might be causing a problem. Here is the diagram:
Image (Click to make bigger)
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+2
Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 1:50 AM
Tiny
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Here is some more in-depth info and some more specific info on the tests you can do.
Carefully disconnect the vacuum lines from the valves (on the hose) and see if the valves hold vacuum, if not replace. If they do, disconnect the vacuum lines from the solenoids, hook up a vacuum pump to the top port and do a KOEO test. At the end of the test the TAB/TAD solenoids will cycle on/off when you move the throttle plate (you'll hear them click). Apply some vacuum. Your test light should come on/off when you move the throttle plate and the vacuum gauge should bleed off. If you don't hear them cycle on/off, check for ground at the connector(s). The puter only provides the ground as a switch. If you have good ground and the vacuum still holds then the solenoid(s) are bad-->replace. If you can't get the vacuum to hold on either solenoid, check for vacuum leaks on the plastic vacuum lines or at the black connector.
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 1:52 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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Thanks.
Found the TAB solenoid to be leaking down. Will get new one and let you know what happens.
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 2:23 AM
Tiny
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OK sounds good. Hopefully this will fix it for you!
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Friday, October 7th, 2011 AT 2:52 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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New TAB switch did no good. Still getting only 1" vacuum to the EVR. Did not know if the tomato can had a check valve feature or not, so I switched the vac lines on it. Now I have 13" Hg to the EVR. Great improvement, but will it be enough? If I bypass the tomato can and hook its vac lines together, I get 18" at EVR. The tomato can is a restriction. Does it need to be replaced? Is it possible to remove the rubber boot (vac connections are on this boot), clean and re-assemble it?
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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 2:36 AM
Tiny
JEFEJEFFY1
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Actually getting 20" Hg TO EVR, but unable to hold more than 13" because EVR leaks down rapidly. Disconnected vac lines from EVR. Pumped vacuum down on both ports separately, then together with a tee. All combinations leak down instantly. Checking both together tells me it is not leaking from one side to the other, but both leak to the outside somewhere. The old one is the same. Are they defective? Just bought one of them.
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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 9:38 PM
Tiny
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Test each item separately. If it does not hold vacuum then it needs to be replaced.
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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 4:12 AM

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