I have a 1992 LeBaron 3.0 V6 Sedan. I have some sort of electrical gremlin and I really don't know where to start.
Right now, the on-board Traveler System, the Air Conditioning, Power Windows on all Doors, the air bags, and the cigarette lighter (I don't smoke, just was checking to see if it worked) are all out without any power. I am really stumped. The car itself is running fine, no random cut-offs or anything, its just this electrical issue.
Can I get some advice, because I really don't know what to do here, I doubt that I could have burnt out a window motor, A/C compressor, and a computer system all at once, but it is possible.
Have you checked the fuses under the hood? The ignition switch is another place to look since all of the dead items are switched. Check the electrical connector for signs of two blackened terminals and a melted plastic body.
Do you have a voltmeter or test light to do some testing?
August, 27, 2012 AT 5:59 AM
I have a test light, just don't know where to start testing, but no voltmeter
August, 27, 2012 AT 6:28 AM
There's two different versions of LeBaron for '92. If something doesn't look right, let me know and I'll switch to a different section of the service manual.
Look for the 12 gauge pink wire with a black stripe going into the ignition switch. Check for 12 volts there. If it's missing there, you have a burned open fuse link wire by the left strut tower. No point in looking back further at other fuses because that fuse link wire taps off from other circuits that are working.
If you DO find 12 volts there, check for 12 volts on the black / orange wire with the ignition switch in the "run" position. If it's not there, the ignition switch has an arced contact or the connector terminals are overheated. You can prove this by back-probing and connecting those two wires with a jumper wire or stretched-out paper clip. That should bring the dead circuits back to life.
If by some chance you do have 12 volts on the black / orange wire, suspect that wire is broken or a rivet has let loose in the fuse box. The circuit splits into three parts in the fuse box and all of them aren't going to have a problem at the same time, like you said. Fuse # 10 is actually a small metal circuit breaker that is hard to get under to measure, but if you pull it out you should find 12 volts on one of the terminals in the socket. The other two fuses are #9 (30 amp) and #11 (10 amp). They have tiny holes on top where you can stick your test light to take readings. Both sides of both fuses should have 12 volts in the "run" position.