I would think a mig welder would do the job for you.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:25 AM
Ok thanks. Is their a special type that I should look for. Here is what I want. What do you think.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:32 AM
I don't know too much about welders, but I will have a buddy check it out for you.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:33 AM
Ok thank you so much.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:34 AM
Mig is fine but you need one that can go pretty low so you don't burn through the metal. Some shops only weld new parts on. Some only use clamps, like Sears Auto Centers. Many of them are connected to shopping malls where fire codes prohibit use of a torch or welder. Clamps go a lot faster, and you can loosen them up to turn things when you mess up and something bangs against the frame or body. Some people think welding insures there will be no leaks but that assumes you can see up on top and get in there with the welder. Other people, like me, prefer clamps. You won't have a leak if you use the right size clamps, the pipes fit together snugly, and you don't tighten the snot out of them. There's cheap clamps and good ones too. Cheap ones just make you more work. In many applications there are hangers that need to attach to the threaded end of a clamp so you'll need them even if you do weld the pipes.
Welders work good for closing up holes rusted in catalytic converters. I've had to do that twice, five years apart, on my '88 Grand Caravan, and now, five years later I need to do it again.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:47 AM
Hi Jacobandnickolas. Didn't mean to butt into your conversation. Guess I type too slowly.
I forgot to mention too that there is some concern about welding on vehicles with computers. My buddy rebuilds smashed one and two-year-old Dodge trucks. Often he has to weld tabs to the frames to straighten them or repair them, and he has never had a problem, ... Yet.
Some people say to disconnect the vehicle's battery and that will prevent damaging a computer because it can't be turned on, which the memory circuits are even when the ignition switch is off. My theory, which seems to not be shared by many others is to leave the battery connected so it holds system voltage at 12 volts, and it will absorb the current from the voltage spikes a welder will produce. None of that should be a big concern if there's no wiring harnesses between the welder's ground clamp and where you're welding. The issue is a voltage spike entering a computer on a signal wire, and that is going to happen whether the battery is connected or not.
March, 6, 2013 AT 3:56 AM
THE WELDER IN YOUR LINK WAS A "FLUX CORE"
IT DOES NOT DO AS GOOD OF A JOB AS ONE THAT USES INERT GAS
IF YOU PLAN ON DOING A LOT OF WELDING---ONE THAT IS CAPABLE OF BOTH. FLUX CORE. OR INERT GAS MIGHT BE A BETTER CHOICE, BUT A LITTLE MORE EXPENSIVE
IF YOU ARE JUST SORTA "PLAYING" FROM TIME TO TIME---YOUR LINK MAY BE PLENTY
. AND YOU JUST CAN'T BEAT A "SELF DARKENING HOOD". LET'S YOU STAY ON TARGET, WITHOUT THE OLE "HOOD FLIP" PRIOR TO STRIKING AN ARC. THEY HAVE COME WAY DOWN IN PRICE
March, 6, 2013 AT 4:00 AM
Caradiodoc, not a problem. Your info is very good. Please add info anytime you want.
March, 6, 2013 AT 5:06 AM
I have used clamps on this car and it leaked in the front coupling coming off the motor. The old coupling was welder in the old exhaust pipe coming from the motor. So I bought an adapter and slid it on the little bit that was left from where I cut it. I have clamped it and tried different ways of moving the clamp. It will not stay. So on the new converter it leaks at the front. I even used a impact driver to tighten. It and it sealed up more then when I was doing it by hand but it still leaks. I am using 2.5 clamps which is the right size. I had the auto part store help me with it. Any suggestions. I was told I could buy like a putty weld that would seal it. But that would be last option. I also saw an exhaust bandage that will work with the catalytic converter but I don't know if it will pass inspection like that.
March, 6, 2013 AT 5:57 AM
I'VE HAD GOOD LUCK ON SOME THINGS BY USING 2 CLAMPS---180 DEGREES APART, BUTTED AGAINST EACH OTHER
IF YOUR STUFF WORKS ANYTHING LIKE MINE. YOU PROBABLY AIN'T GOT ENOUGH ROOM TO GET THEM ARRANGED LIKE THAT
SOMETHING ELSE THAT HAS WORKED WELL FOR ME IS ONE OF THEM "HEAT CLOTHS", THEY SORTA LOOK LIKE BURLAP AND ARE SORTA WOVEN
THESE THINGS ARE USED IN MY PROFESSION (PLUMBER) TO KEEP FROM BURNING STUFF WITH "MR. TORCH". SOME OF THE OLD FELLERS CALL 'EM ASBESTOS WRAPS. BUT THEY ARE NOT! (ANY MORE)
MOST OF THE TIME THESE HEAT SHIELDS ARE MAYBE 8 X 12 INCHES OR SO
WE ALSO USE "NO HUB BANDS" WHICH ARE A STAINLESS BAND WITH 2 HOSE CLAMPS (PLAIN JANE HOSE CLAMPS) RIVETED ON EACH END. THEY ARE MADE TO CONNECT CAST IRON PIPE AND FITTINGS TOGETHER. A RUBBER COUPLING GOES ON THE PIPE, THESE SLIP DOWN AND CLAMP IT
THAT WAS JUST TO GET YOU STARTED AND UNDERSTANDING!
THEY ALSO MAKE "HEAVY DUTY" CLAMPS THAT DO THE SAME THING---THEY USE 2, OR MORE "T-BOLTS" AND USE NUTS TO TIGHTEN THEM DOWNVERY TIGHT! (THE HOSE CLAMPS ON REGULAR NO HUB BANDS WOULD STRIP)
A FEW CAN BE SEEN --IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS PAGE (GROUP OF 8 DIFFERENT CLAMPS)
SO TO PUT OT ALL TOGETHER
GO TO A PLUMBING SUPPLY HOUSE GET THE NUMBER OF "HEAVY DUTY" CLAMPS YOU NEED. SLING THE INNER RUBBERS OUT INTO THE BUSHES!----THEY COME IN 1-1/4.1-1/2.2.2-1/2.3. ON UP!
YOU MIGHT INSURE THE SIZE WILL SUIT YOUTHE SIZE IS THE SIZE OF "OUTSIDE DIAMETER" OF CAST IRON PIPE! SO YOU MIGHT GO "DOWN A SIZE" FOR EXHAUST PIPE
CUT YOUR HEAT SHIELD TO SIZE, THEN WRAP MAYBE 2 FULL WRAPS---SLIDE THE CLAMPS ON AND TIGHTENDONE. STICK YOU WITH A FORK!
THIS WORKED WELL FOR ME ONE TIME WHEN I HAD TO CUT MY EXHAUST HALF INTO, SO I COULD DROP MY TRANNY AND TRANSFER CASE.I JUST MADE A BUTT JOINT