I don't know if this applies to your car but some axle nuts are what they call "torque to yield" and are a one-time-use nut. The threads stretch once when they're tightened and won't tighten properly the next time. Those are supposed to be replaced with new ones each time they're removed. Regular nuts that do not have to be replaced each time will have slots for a large cotter pin to go through or a stamped steel cap that goes over the nut for the cotter pin to go through. If the nut is slotted always tighten it to the specified torque, then if the slot doesn't line up with the hole in the cv joint, always tighten it a little more. Never loosen a nut to get the cotter pin in.
There will be a large washer under that nut. If that is missing the nut will probably reach the end of the threads before it gets tight. The only other thing I can think of to let the nuts work loose is if the threads on the cv joints are damaged preventing the nuts from going on all the way.
Remember too that the torque value on those axle nuts is very high and the proper tightness is critical. You need a click-type torque wrench to set them. Those can cost hundreds of dollars for real high-quality ones but Harbor Freight Tools has a decent one for around 20 bucks. Sears will have them too but you don't want the less-expensive beam and pointer-type. They aren't nearly accurate enough.
The bearings will come with a sheet of instructions that state the torque value.
Friday, March 22nd, 2013 AT 10:32 AM