I replaced the timing belt last week and drove the car for a day - it didnt seem to have power - so I took it home and found that I had not properly tightened the tensioner. I have now installed a new tensioner, water pump, cam shaft sensor, and the belt. It took an act of congress to get all those marks lined up but finally did.
now when I start the car it takes a long time for it to start and when it does it wants to die. The CEL is on steady until I am able to get it idled up at which time it flashes (just a steady flash).
I am going to pull the covers and make sure I got the crank mark correct but wanted to ask if there was something I was missing. I thought it might have been 180 out so I moved the wires but though it runs it doesnt run differently. I am switching them back this afternoon. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You need to get the codes pulled to find out what that light is telling you.
August, 30, 2011 AT 1:58 PM
I am trying but finding someone to let their reader go for an hour is difficult. And I cant drive it so it is proving difficult. Will post when/if I get them. Thank you
August, 30, 2011 AT 4:13 PM
Just called parts house by home - they charge $300 (retail price for reader) to take it and go home to read codes. Looks like I am going to fly blind on this. Thank you for you direction. I knew I needed the codes but I didnt realize that a flashing light was so aloof. (Smile)
August, 30, 2011 AT 4:35 PM
The reader isn't going ton work on that truck anyway. It's too old.
August, 31, 2011 AT 1:10 PM
Well I was able to talk to a manager and since I have basically paid their salary for a month with the parts I have bought over the past 2 weeks they loaned me the code reader for 20 minutes.
P0301 - cyl 1 misfire
P0122 - TPS low voltage
P1122 - TPS circuit low voltage
im not worried about the last 2 because I know what caused those. I had the belt off while starting and the alternator was not providing voltage.
The 301 though is bothersome because this car was running before I put the timing belt on and now I have this error code. I am going to replace the plug wires, I already replaced the plugs.
I am looking at the firing order and I am wondering if the previous owner made some wire swaps because of an idiot moment they had.
I am trying to figure out how to identify the wire to socket arrangement on the ignition coil. I dont feel any numbers (cant see it because of location) so I guess my question is what wire goes where?
I am going to continue to look. Thanks for any help.
August, 31, 2011 AT 1:12 PM
Do you have a correction to make on the year of your truck?
August, 31, 2011 AT 2:00 PM
Yes. My bad - typo. It is a 98.
One additional note is that I pulled the plug 1 and did a spark test. It has nice blue spark. However I went ahead and pulled all of the plugs and I noticed that they are all solid black - like the fuel is not burning.
I am confident it is a misfire issue. I am going to try and figure out how to test the resistance on all the electrical connections. I still havent found a picture or note that says 1, 2, 3, 4 position on the coil. I am assuming that from left to right (looking at motot from front of car) is 1, 3, 4, 2 but we know what assume does.
September, 1, 2011 AT 12:24 PM
Well I got it started (not running) last night. It will not stay running though. It is almost like it has no fuel or air or spark or something that causes that explosion that produces power. It starts and as long as I have it throttled up high it will run but it cant idle at all. The motor looks like a caged bull wanting to jump out of its fence.
I did drive it and there is ZERO power.
September, 1, 2011 AT 12:53 PM
Each cylinder is paired with the cylinder that is opposite of it (1-4 or 2-3). The spark occurs simultaneously in the cylinder coming up on the compression stroke and in the cylinder coming up on the exhaust stroke.
September, 1, 2011 AT 1:16 PM
I did finally see on the coil pack that the order was on there in microfine print (1, 4, 2, 3) that helped get it started. Just cant keep it running now.