Try to find points that replicate the gound. Such as, if the ground was originally on the exhaust manifold, move it to the manifold connection where the manifold first connects to the exhaust.
Keep in mind you might have to play with this as parts such as the exhaust manifold to the head may have a lot of resistance depndine on the type of gasket material. Even if it is a meatal gasket, it still will have some resistance.
So, if you mount the cable to the manifold collector, mount it on the top of connecter and try to make it touch the exhaust manifold.
Check the cable for resistance. Depending on the gauge you will have a corresponding Ohms per foot value. 1AWG is 126.4 Ohms per foot. it may be less depending on quality of cable and you have to add a few Ohms for cable ends. check resistance of cable to make sure it did not get internally frayed or the connections are bad. Visual inspection can take care of this in most cases, but to be sure you need to performa an Ohm per foot test with a multi-meter to make sure cable is good.
I you want to move the ground to the block, keep it as close to the exhasut manifold as possible.
If all else fails you can get power distribution blocks for battery posts, usually used for stereos amps, etc., which have a 1 AWG connection as well as a few other options depending on what you get. The negative battery post is the best ground there is. If you still have a problem, there is another issue that was excacerbated by moving the ground cable.
You can also get Grounding Kits which attach to the negative battery post and provide a good ground source so back-feeding does not occurr.
Here is a link to a grounding kit, the price is not bad either.
Here is another grounding cable system. It has a diagram of suggested ground mounting points in the engine compartment;
You can never have to many grounds. make sure ground mount points are free of paint and are clean and rust free.
Just in case it is a coincidence, here is a list of issues that cause cause rough idle, stalling and misfires;
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.
You can also price out grounding kits by going to a car stereo shop or a Best Buy and getting an amplifier installation kit. It has ! AWG wire, sometimes bigger, high quality connectors and you have the freedom to make cables to the length you need. The cables and connectors also have less resistance per foot as they are higher quality than standard copper cable.
To reset the computer simply dis-connect the negative cable for at least 30 seconds.
If you still have problems, let me know where the other end of the ground cable goes. Also try mounting cable back to its original mounting point to see if problem goes away.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 9:18 AM