after a 10 mile drive the front rotors are burning hot. The left side is worse than the right. The calipers, pads, rotors, and rubber hose are relatively new (previous owner). I took apart the left side and the caliper easily moves out (when applying the brakes), but when I try to compress the caliper piston with a C-Clamp it is really difficult. What do you think?
'89 S-10 Blazer
Crack the bleeder screws open, then see if you can push the pistons in. If you can, try the same thing by cracking the steel lines at the master cylinder.
March, 5, 2011 AT 9:36 PM
I would be pretty suspicious why all that stuff was changed. This has the symptoms of a contaminated system. Run the test that Caradiodoc suggested. I'm suspecting you will find a bad master too and maybe rear problems at a later date.
March, 5, 2011 AT 10:00 PM
I was thinkin' fluid contamination too but didn't want to bring that up yet as it can really ruin a guy's day.
Happy Saturday, Wrenchtech
March, 5, 2011 AT 10:56 PM
LOL. It is what it is.
March, 6, 2011 AT 5:01 AM
Check the rod that pushes the master cylinder plunger from the power brake booster, it sounds like it is too far out and not allowing the brake master to fully release. Please let me know, Thanks for using 2carpros. Com
March, 6, 2011 AT 11:05 PM
With a C-Clamp appying pressure on the Left side Caliper piston I cracked the front brake line at the Master Cylinder and only a small amount of fluid came out (minimal pressure). I then cracked the bleeder screw on the Caliper and again only a little fluid came out. I removede the Caliper and a the Piston boot has a visable hole about 1mm diameter. I looked under the boot and there is evidence of corrosion. I replaced both Calipers ($13 each at Murray's Auto). The pedal isn't as firm as I would like it, but bleeding brakes by yourself isn't the easiest. I'll let you now if this solves the problem. FYI- the front brakes definately lock up much faster than the rear. Thanks for the help.