Is it possible for my 1988 Ford Bronco to jump timing during use? The idle is all over the place. During initial start-up it's around 7-800. After driving for awhile it gets faster. After freeway driving it's around 1400. Also have an annoying pinging at accerlation. Tried better gas, plugs and wires, cap and rotor. Still there. People i've talked to say the pinging could be from timing being too advanced. Plan on getting idle control valve this weekend, but I don't think that will help with the pinging.
Imma Jeep CJ guy.I'm winging this off of experience with my Dad's '86 T-Bird
You have OBD1 system,
Used to Autozone had a Handout which showed you how to retrieve trouble codes. I think this could be done with a Analog or "Needle Type" voltmeter. Me and my Dad just decided to go ahead and buy the "Snap in" reader (about $40, years ago) for the '86 T-Bird
Regardless which you use--You must COUNT (Beeps-or-LED lights-or-the voltmeter needle sweeping. There are pauses--This gives you the CODE NUMBERS. For instance 3 beeps, pause, 4 beeps is "34" (just an EX.)
On the reader we bought it had 3 separate things that it read (I have CRS!) I'd have to dig that stuff out.
Usually the Check Engine Light is on if you have codes--Does your Check Engine light verify it "THE LIGHT WORKS" when you start your rig?
I may can help with how to get the codes---If Needed
This may tell you what system needs attention, instead of Trial and Error.
Tell me what you got in mind. At this post
I'll tell you what I can do, in "messages"
May, 12, 2011 AT 2:56 PM
Thanks in advance for the help. I have verified the check engine light works. It does not stay on after start-up. This is what puzzles me. Wouldn't the computer tell me if there is a component or sensor bad?
May, 12, 2011 AT 3:46 PM
Sorta primitive computer--(me too!)
Dads wouldn't idle, pick a number (it would!). It would throw random codes, it died when you stopped-I swapped/ replaced nearly everything, some stuff 2-4 times. Went to salvage yard robbed all sensors from 4 cars--bagful of sensors.$10! Bought some stuff new (inexpensive) I figured from 4 cars, at least one of each expensive sensor would be good, especially if Methodically replaced, one at a time, as not to factor in, a lot of bad stuff, all at once.
Still no fix, took it to "The Man". That dealers take their problem children to. Said it was TPS, after it was on his Billion Dollar Battleship Snap-On Machine. Replaced for 5th time!
T'was the injectors--no codes for that on his '86.I spent a month and a half monkeying with it! Suicide was next, I was letting Pap (my Dad, now deceaced) Down!
My pal took the entire throttle body off of one of the 4 cars at the yard, and told me to try it. Another well spent $10!
I know how you feel!
May, 12, 2011 AT 4:04 PM
So. If the timing is off would these be some signs of it? Could this be a simple timing adjustment fix? If so how would the timing have gotten out of whack? Which leads me back to my original question can the timing change during use if the chain is bad or is it something that either works or doesn't? I hope that doesn't sound like a stupid question. Please don't tell me to take it to a shop. I don't want to get ripped off.
May, 12, 2011 AT 4:51 PM
Got an appt.
You wanna attempt the code thing. If we can?
Click on me. My avatar send me your E-mail address.I will try to scan and send some info to you. Kinda stuff I cannot send here!
Timing is probably not he issue at all. If it jumped it probably run really consistently terrible. If it would run at all.
So far, if the volcano was gonna over take me within 2 hours!
I would look for and repair vacuum leaks. Older rig, rubber connectors deteriorate, them small hard plastic lines break (some inside wire looms) others just become disconnected
You might shove a 4 ft. Long piece of 1/2"-3/4" inch heater hose/ garden hose in your ear---use the other end like a stethoscope to find the HISSES! (Try that 1st as well as visual)
WATCH OUT FOR THOSE PESKY MOVING PARTS! SHORT SLEEVES, TAKE OFF THE "PEACE SIGN" NECKLACE! GOT TO BARBER, IF YOU HAVE HIPPIE HAIR!----NO WANTY TO GET WOUND UP IN A BELT OR FAN!
IF I HAD TO CHOOSE A PART TO THROW AT IT WITHOUT FURTHER TESTINGI WOULD PICKTHROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS). CHECK VACUUM LEAKS 1ST!
IF YOU HAVE MESSED WITH THE "IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW(S). NOT GOOD G.I. PROBABLY NOTICED IT IDLED UP OR DOWN TO COMPENSATE FOR YOUR TURNAGE. NOT GOOD. IT WAS SET TO "BASE IDLE" (EVERYTHING IS CALIBRATED TO THAT "SWEET SPOT") IF YOU TURNED 'EM, WE GOTTA GET IT BACK TO WHERE IT WAS. PLEASE SAY YOU DID NOT. WE CAN WORK THRU IT IF YOU DID, JUST MORE WORK!
I AM AN EXPERT HERE. NOT A PROFESSIONAL, LIKE SOME OF THE OTHER FELLERS. THIS IS MY HOBBY. IF YOU GO TO THE JEEP CJ 5 AND 7 FORUMS, YOU WILL SEE WHERE MY HEART LIES.I ANSWER THERE THE MOST, IMMA CJ GUY TOO. IMMA PLUMBER.I DO JEEPS.A LOT! GOT 2 NEARLY BUILT FROM SCRATCH. ALL BY MYSELF! SORTA SHOW 'EM AS MY "CREDENTIALS".I DO KNOW "JACK" AND HIS "LAST NAME" PROFESSIONALLY!
I'M SORTA LIKE YOU, AS FAR AS DOING MINE, FAMILY, AND FRIENDS REPAIRS, NO LIKEY SHOPS.I HAVE SOME GOOD AUTO KNOWLEDGE AND REFERENCES. JUST NOT UP TO PAR ON THIS NEW COMPUTER CONTROLLED CARS.I'M LEARNING, MAINLY HERE!
I WILL TRY TO KEEP ASSISTING ALL I CAN----OTHERS MAY JUMP IN TO HELP TOO. WATCH FOR "NAME CHANGES", SO YOU WILL KNOW WHO YOU ARE TALKING TO.
EMAIL? (MESSAGE ME)
GONE FOR A FEW HOURS. MAKE WIFEY HAPPY. SPEND $$$
May, 12, 2011 AT 6:48 PM
I bought the Haynes manual the other day. The instructions for the self diagnostic are in there. That will save you some time. This has a throttle body. No carburetor adjustments for me to mess (if there were that would have been my first mistake believe me). Will buy TPS and check for vacuum leaks. Keep the wife happy. I know mine will be happy when this is all said and done.
June, 2, 2011 AT 2:13 PM
It's me again. Changed IAC, Engine temp sensor, cleaned throttle body, cleaned EGR valve. NO CHANGE. Can you say frustrated. And to top it all off after this was completed check engine light is now on. F***. Engine will idle fine at initial start up, but the longer it runs the idle speed increases. Starts at under 1000 rpm. After about 10 min of idle, or driving it idle will increase to 1500 rpm and stay there. This can't be good for the motor. Thinking MAP Sensor or TPS. But this is starting to get costly. Can you produce very detailed instructions to do the self-test? I have the Haynes manual but the instructions are very basic. Thanks
June, 2, 2011 AT 7:58 PM
We keep talkin' timing, wear would minimally change it, anybody move it? Let's Rule it out, as a factor. CHECK IT. Got tune up tools? Inexpensive set at "Harbor Freight". Less than $40, 'bout all you will need, compact, all in one case.
Current Codes, is the starting point!
Have you coded it. Codes?
Did you clear the codes, re-code again to see if the code #s changed?
Codes do not necessarily tell you what to change, they tell you what is being affected by a problem. I just dealt with/ still dealing with one, On a Toyota tuck, P0135, the codes meaning is "Fuel Air Metering"
This is OBD II--matters not! My 1st guess is throw on an O2 sensor ($99). After talking with others, this may be a vacuum leak, something allowing in too much fuel, like a bad injector etc.. Not my truck, friends truck! If he spends $99, and nothing changes, he will not be happy! So, the O2 could be bad (not sending correct info to the computer) Or it could be sending back correct info. But not what the computer wants to hear! Computer assumes everything should be perfect. When something goes wrong. It sorta points it's finger at "Who told it that!" NOT, "Who did it!". Some of the time, it does point to "Who did it", depending on what went wrong!
If you messed with idle adjustments---Correct "base idle" may be off, confusing the computer (everything is calibrated to B.I.)
Check Engine Light on? Lets hear some code numbers. Before you go further!
June, 3, 2011 AT 12:54 AM
I am checking timing this weekend. Thanks for replying I thought I would lose you it's been awhile. As I said I have the Haynes manual and it gives instructions for getting the codes without the diagnostic tool. They are very basic as far as telling how to do it. The self-test plug under the hood has a pyramid shaped plug and one single plug for the self-test. The pyramid plug has 2 inputs on the top row and 3 on the bottom row. The single plug is just that a single input. The manual says to use a jumper wire and a voltmeter to retrive the the codes. But very basic on where to put those connections. Can you help? I would like to try this but don't want to do any possible further damage. PS I will be buying that tune-up kit.
June, 3, 2011 AT 1:08 AM
Not trying to force you into the kit, it's just so. Every-things there!
Actually that one belongs to my buddy, I'm gonna get one to "travel" with, when friends call me!
I bought several of each piece, over the years, big stuff, decent stuff, kinda my Stay at the house tools, when I travel with 'em. Cumbersome, tangled, unprofessional looking!
My buddy is learning slowly, his set works very well, like I said, compact and all in one place.
Sending you a message, in a moment. Go "Home" click on "You", message center is to your left, click it, read!