I have a 2.0 liter and not gettin much spark on my #1 and #4 coil tower. I tested the pulse wires that plug into the coil. I have 12volts in the middle wire & a good pulse on the #2 and #3 pulse wire BUT on the wire going to the #1 and #4 coil tower is not flashin much on my test light when I crank the engine. I tested crank sensor & Map sensor & there good. Could it b my PCM or ECM? No codes because someone erased them. It was rebuilt 2yrs. Ago.(Timing belt. Head. Complete gasket and seals too.
Which engine do you have; single or dual cam? If it's the single cam engine, remove the cam sprocket and check the dowel pin to see if it's sheared off. If it is, that will let the sprocket turn a little on the camshaft. That retards the cam timing, and that is picked up by the cam sensor on the driver's side of the engine. The late timing looks the same to the Engine Computer as a jumped timing belt. At the equivalent of one tooth off the Check Engine light will come on and the code will be "cam and crank sync". At two teeth off the computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves. At three teeth off the open valves will be hit by the pistons.
The first one of these I ran into behaved exactly the same way as what you're describing. If you monitor the output of the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay during cranking, you are likely to see it's not staying on steady. The voltage at the coil pack, alternator field, or any injector will be turning on and off randomly.
December, 6, 2012 AT 9:37 PM
I checked dowel pin & my timing marks were all good. Still not much spark on 1and4 tower.I checked the pulse wire again. Could a CAM SENSOR have an effect on the spark going to the coil pack. The cam sensor and the Pcm is the only thing that I havnt replaced or tested on this 2.0 sohc. If I clean the gas and carbin off the plugs. It will start for 10 to 15 seconds then it bogs. Spit. Spudder then stop and wont start back up.
December, 6, 2012 AT 10:20 PM
You have two conflicting symptoms. If you clean the plugs and it runs okay at first, you have to have sufficient spark to all four cylinders. In that case I'd be looking at an over-fueling problem. The map sensor has the biggest say in how much fuel goes into the engine. A vacuum leak anywhere will make it look to that sensor as though you're accelerating so it will call for more fuel.
Map sensors don't fail real often anymore, and when they do, they usually don't take real long, but in between the "good" state and totally failed, they can go through a short period where they report the wrong manifold vacuum value but it's within the acceptable range so no fault code is set. You'd find that by looking at the map reading on a scanner. You might try unplugging the map sensor. The Engine Computer will set a code and it will default to using other sensors to calculate fuel needs. If it runs a little better, look at that sensor.