1986 Jeep CJ7 Replacement Parts

Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 JEEP CJ7
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
Heads up on best place to buy replacement parts for price/selection/availabilty?
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2015 AT 6:38 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LIKE WHAT KINDA STUFF ARE YOU A NEEDIN"?

REGULAR EXPENDABLES LIKE TUNE-UP/ MAINTENANCE (LIKE BRAKES)?

BIG STUFF, LIKE AXLES, BODY PARTS, TRANNY, TRANSFER CASE?

ACCESSORIES?

COOL THING IS

THEY'LL NEVER QUIT MAKING 'EM!

I SHOP LOCAL AND ON THE WEB, I'M A THRIFTY SHOPPER, CAN SHOW YOU "MY ROPES"

YOUR TURN,

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2015 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
YO FELLER!

JUST NOTICED WHO IT WAS!

DOIN' OK?
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2015 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
Hey Medic, long time no hear. Yes, among other things, off the top of my head:
- new window frame that's rusted through,
- probably need some gaskets;
- metal washers (to replace the always breaking plastic ones which I seem to have gone through about 100) for my side mirror mounts,
- clips for my shifter (a lot of play in the shifter handle), paper hose that comes off the breather,
- new back-up light switch (my back up lights aren't working at all; how can I test whether I need to replace?)
- rear seal in rear-driver side drum is gone,
- fly wheel that engages the starter has chipped teeth,
- would like some of those new single blade/squeegee type wiper blades (11 1/2 inch in length) that you can't seem to find anywhere, .

And, I remember talking to you once before and you mentioned "codes" for websites (for discounts) when buying through websites.

Wouldn't mind some direction re: the above. And, I am from Canada, so I know I can realistically only pick things up most things from below the border.
Mike
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2015 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
- probably need some gaskets;

GASKETS ARE USUALLY COMMON AUTO PARTS STORE ITEMS IF YOU NEED 'EM "RIGHT NOW". NORMALLY PRICES AT NEAR BY STORES ARE CLOSE INLINE TO EACH OTHER

IF YOU CAN "WAIT"(NO HURRY FOR A FEW DAYS), I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO SORTA BUNDLE, PICK UP AT STORE OR EVEN HAVE THE PARTS SENT TO YOU A LOT CHEAPER, FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS. SHOW YOU IN A MINUTE

- metal washers (to replace the always breaking plastic ones which I seem to have gone through about 100) for my side mirror mounts,

FROM A ONLINE JEEP STORE. I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO FIND THE BETTER PRICE

- rear seal in rear-driver side drum is gone,

- clips for my shifter (a lot of play in the shifter handle),

FROM A ONLINE JEEP STORE. I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO FIND THE BETTER PRICE

paper hose that comes off the breather,

I FOUND MINE AT ADVANCE AUTO WHEN I STILL HAD THE CARTER BBD (LOOK) YOU CAN ALSO GET ONE. FROM A ONLINE JEEP STORE. I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO FIND THE BETTER PRICE

- would like some of those new single blade/squeegee type wiper blades (11 1/2 inch in length) that you can't seem to find anywhere,

IS THIS SOMETHING NEW THAT I'M UNAWARE OF? (JEEP STORE ONLINE) OR THE STANDARD BLADES? (ADVANCE AUTO PARTS)

- new back-up light switch (my back up lights aren't working at all; how can I test whether I need to replace?)

TEST- FIND THE SWITCH ON YOUR TRANNY (LEAVE IT ON THERE) JUST UNPLUG IT- NOW WITH A WIRE OR PAPERCLIP OR ETC. CONNECT THE TERMINALS TOGETHER ON THE WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR (THE PAPER CLIP IS NOW THE SWITCH) TURN YOUR KEY TO "ON", SEE IF THE B/U LIGHTS COME ON. IF NO, CHECK YOUR FUSE, TAKE IT OUT, A TAD BIT OF DIELECTRIC GREASE ON THE FUSE/ HOLDER MIGHT MAKE BETTER CONTACT. (FUSE MAY BE GOOD, OLD-NESS AND CORROSION MAY PREVENT GOOD CONTACT

TO CLARIFY, THIS IS NOT THE SWITCH ON THE TRANSFER CASE FOR THE 4WD LIGHT

- fly wheel that engages the starter has chipped teeth,

GONNA HAVE TO SNATCH THE MOTOR OR THE TRANNY/ TRANSFER TO FIX THAT!

I RECOMMEND SNATCHING THE ENGINE AND BELL HOUSING - THIS MAY SEEM STUPID, IT ONLY TAKES ANOTHER 30 MIN-HOUR, REMOVE THE GRILL AND FENDERS, MAKES THINGS SO MUCH EZier, ESPECIALLY WHEN LINING BACK UP WITH THE PILOT SHAFT (NOTHING TO BEND OVER, LESS LIKELY TO DAMAGE THE GRILL OR FENDERS, YOU ONLY RAISE THE ENGINE A FEW INCHES TO MOVE IT OUT.

IF YOU'RE OUT- THINK ABOUT RESURFACING THE FLYWHEEL/ NEW CLUTCH KIT/ NEW THROW OUT BEARING/ FRONT SEAL IN THE TRANNY-THE NEW "RING" REQUIRES BEING HEATED WITH A TORCH TO EXPAND AND INSTALL IT. A HEAVY PUNCH AND A HAMMER WILL REMOVE THE OLD ONE. THE RING HAS A "DIRECTION", GOES ON A CERTAIN WAY

THE ABOVE STUFF CAN COME FROM EITHER A OLINE JEEP PLACE OR ADVANCE AUTO

OK HERE'S MY METHODS

I GO TO A POPULAR JEEP STORE ONLINE

MORRIS 4X4 / CSE OFFROAD/ QUADRATEC/ ETC

I TRY TO FIND WHAT I WANT WITH A PART NUMBER (LIKE OMIX ADA/ RUGGED RIDGE/ ETC) OR I GET A REALLY BRIEF NAME FOR THE PART

I THEN GO TO shopzilla.com (OR MAYBE ANOTHER COMPARATIVE SHOPPING ENGINE) I INSTALL MY PART NUMBER OR NAME AND HIT SEARCH, I THEN HIT THE DROP DOWN FOR "LOW TO HIGH" (PRICES) AND THE OTHER AT THE END (80 RESULTS INSTEAD OF 20 TO SPEED THINGS UP) YOU MAY GET "CRAP" YOU MAY NEED TO REWORD THE SEARCH. I DO THIS REALLY FOR ANYTHING, NOT JUST FOR MY JEEPS. THIS IS HOW I FOUND MY WILLYS FUEL PUMPS FOR $21 INSTEAD OF $50 ON UP (SO I GOT 2 OF 'EM)

THIS MAY HELP THE MOST-US!

THIS IS DEALING WITH AN AUTO PARTS STORE-THIS WORKS FOR OTHER STORES TOO (IN THEIR OWN KINDA WAY- YOU HAVE TO DO HOMEWORK TOO, I CAN'T DO IT ALL!

MANY OF THE PARTS YOU MENTIONED ARE AVAILABLE AT ADVANCE AUTO PARTS. YOU CAN ORDER (ONLY ONLINE) AND IN 30 MINUTES GO IN THE STORE AND GET THEM. OR HAVE 'EM SENT TO YOU

I'M TALKING A "PENNY OVER" $30/ $70/ $110 MAY SAVE YOU $10/ $25/ $40 RESPECTIVELY

YOU GOTTA SORTA "FIT" AN ORDER TOGETHER SO THAT YOU BARELY GO OVER THE 30/ 70/ 110 LIMITS. ONCE YOU HIT $110+ END THAT ORDER/ START A NEW ONE!

THIS CODE (BELOW) HAS WORKED A LONG TIME-WHEN IT STOP WORKING, YOU HAVE TO FIND ANOTHER GOOD ONE (SEARCH THE WEB/ "PROMO CODES FOR [WHEREVER] ) PARTS/ FOOD/ WASHING MACHINE/ CLOTHES ETC!

THE BEST CODE IS "A124" FOR ADVANCE AUTO PARTS

SEE HOW THIS WORKS! SEE THIS LINK! I HAVE SPENT SOME TIME GETTING THIS OUT TO EVERYBODY!

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

KEEP ASKIN'- THAT WAS A LOT OF INFO TO ATTACK AT ONCE-

THE MEDIC

.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2015 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
FORGOT TO SAY

YOU CAN DO A "DRY RUN" WITH A CODE, BEFORE YOU GIVE 'EM YOUR CARD INFO

THE SITE WILL LET YOU KNOW IF THE CODE IS VALID AND HOW MUCH YOU SAVE

WHEN YOU WILL ALSO SEE CORE CHARGES WHEN APPLICABLE/ THEY DO GIVE YOUR MONEY BACK WHEN YOU RETURN THE CORE

THIS IS ALSO THE WAY YOU WEED OUT OLD CODES OR FICTITIOUS CODES

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2015 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
Thx Medic, yeah that's me. Been a while, but I'm glad you're still there. What a wealth of great knowledge, and I recognize it. That's why I'm back.

Thanks for the book of answers (yeah, was a long laundry list of questions, wasn't it), but I know who to come to as long as you don't mind answering, . And looks like you don't, so I'm in luck.

Yeah, the MAJOR big deal right now is the back up lights not working, but I also want to get the rear seal done, the front windshield skin/frame replaced (if there are better prices/suppliers/options, my ears are open - I'll get my price up here in Canada, let you know, and see what you suggest see if it's worth the exchange down there), and tighten up the shifter. Thought I had a home remedy to tightening it up by using steel siding as a bushing, and still may work, but may just have to re-do it.

Yeah, the chipped teeth on the fly wheel were found when I had my original clutch replaced 3-4 years ago and they told me about it so I thought I may look to get a new one to have in reserve, but don't think I need a new clutch. Right now, so I'm thinking I may just have "it in the ready" if when needed. That original fly wheel got chipped one year, about 7, 8, 9 years ago when I went to start the jeep one day and the starter wouldn't stop, so I had to jump out of the driver's seat, open the hood and pull the battery cable to stop the juice and shut the starter down (didn't know what else to do), and the tell tale sign/result was worn or chipped teeth from the grinding, so I suspect a new starter over time may be necessary as well.

As for the wipers, I would love a pair (think they have to be 11.5") of those Rainx wipers; the single squeegee-type blade, with no supports or pressure bars (you know those traditional-type wipers, don't like 'em). Rainx doesn't seem to make 'em that small. And, for the winter l prefer the covered boot type, which with the boot on they look like a thick Rainx hybrid squeegee-type wiper.

I'm gonna print and read/digest your response (fix for the back-up light switch) and all the rest and get back to you. In the meantime, if you can add to my needs (windshield frame, .), By all means, suggest away. I'm all ears.

Thx
mike

ps, I'm very familiar with Quadratec (both their website and catalogue). Do they have codes, or are prices as is? And, are they a good go to supplier price and quality wise?
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Monday, March 30th, 2015 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LETTING YOU KNOW I SAW YOUR REPLY

I'LL ANSWER WHEN I HAVE TIME TOMORROW

WORK JUST CALLED ME BACK IN TO REPAIR SOMETHING (ALL THEY SAID?) GOTTA LOVE BEING ON SALARY! (AND GIVEN SURPRISES AT NIGHT),

SEE YOU TOMORROW

THE MEDIC
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Monday, March 30th, 2015 AT 6:34 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK

BACK-UP LIGHTS

1st CHECK

FUSE/ 10 AMP 1 EACH- SEE 1ST PIC, THIS IS AN '83 FUSE BLOCK, PRETTY SURE IT'S THE SAME. PULL IT, INSPECT THE MALE "LEGS" OF THE FUSE, THEY MAY HAVE CORROSION ON 'EM. I HAVE "DIELECTRIC GREASE" ON ALL OF MINE (PIC 1)

2nd CHECK

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH

WANNA KNOW IF THE CONNECTOR VIBRATED LOOSE OR FELL FREE

ALL LOOKED FINE?

THIS NEXT TEST, IF THE LIGHTS COME ON, THE SWITCH IS BAD (PICS 3 & 4)

LET'S OBTAIN A PAPER CLIP AND REMOVE THE BLACK CONNECTOR FROM THE SWITCH

FASHION THE PAPER CLIP SO THAT YOU CAN TOUCH BOTH CONNECTIONS OF THE BLACK CONNECTOR (PAPERCLIP IS NOW THE SWITCH), DON'T LET THE PAPERCLIP TOUCH "GROUND"!!! LAY IT ON A RAG/ ETC.

INSURE THE KEY IS "ON" AND THE "STICK" IS IN REVERSE. NOW RUN AROUND AND SEE IF THE BACK-UP LIGHTS ARE ON. IF THEY ARE, MOST LIKELY THE SWITCH IS BAD.

OTHER THAN THAT, IT'S TRACE THE WIRES, CHECK THE LIGHT HOUSINGS, GROUNDS

I'LL ASSIST YOU THRU THAT TOO, IF IT COMES TO IT

TRANNY STICK PARTS-SEE TOP RIGHT SIDE IN THIS LINK

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transmission-parts/borg-warner-t4.htm

BEST PRICE I FOUND USING "SHOPZILLA.COM" FOR COWL SEAL

http://www.carparts.com/details/Crown/Weatherstrip_Seal/J5453950.html?TID=80000000CP&origin=pla&CP=1&CP_SRC=PPC&003=27372932&010=cpJ5453950WeSeCr&gclid=CP_3weqP1MQCFU5o7Aod-F8A5g&c_aid=45534009453&c2cid=002d4b90-2ab6-45df-8d76-6e473c50ef13

AS FAR AS THE WIPERS, SEND ME A PIC OR LINK TO THE ONES YOU LIKE

MY WIPER BLADES ARE 11 INCHES LONG, IN THE PAST, I HAVE PURCHASED "ONE" 22 OR 24 INCH BLADE OF "TYPES" I WANTED TO TRY (SUCH AS TEFLON), WHACK IT IN HALF (OR TO 11 INCHES), UN-BEND THE TAB, SLIDE THE OLD ONE OUT, SLIDE ON THE NEW ONE , BEND THE TAB DOWN.

HAVE I MISSED ANYTHING THUS FAR?

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, March 31st, 2015 AT 8:18 PM

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