WHY WON'T IT START?

  • Tiny
  • Dave C.
  • 1985 Chrysler Le Baron
  • 32,000 miles

Nice little old lady base convertible, bought 6 months ago, driven 1300 miles, no problem. Earlier this week, came out of store, car cranked, no start. Waited a while, started and drove home. Later, tried to start, started, ran a few seconds, stalled, tried again with same results.

Next day, cranked, but no fuel pump prime before crank, checked for spark at plug, no spark. Checked coil for voltage, no voltage in run position.

Car has been sitting, since. Checked for error codes, only flashes 55, today, and when first problem occurred.

Saturday, October 6th, 2012 AT 4:52 PM

7 Answers

  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,406 posts

Have you checked the fuses yet?

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Saturday, October 6th, 2012 AT 4:58 PM
  • Tiny
  • Dave C.
  • Member

Checked the owner's manual and Hayne's book, underdash fuses do not seem to apply, no underhood fuses located.

I might add that the previous owner put a new computer (rt inside kick panel)5K, 3yrs ago, along with other extensive work amounting to about $ 2,000. Alternator, brakes, fuel line repair, etc. Did not see MAP, Hall Effect, etc replaced. I'm wondering if it could be the power module on the left fender.
Please advise.
The car is really sweet. I'll add that the book says the ASD is in the power module.

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Saturday, October 6th, 2012 AT 5:35 PM
  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,406 posts

What size engine do you have?

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Sunday, October 7th, 2012 AT 3:05 AM
  • Tiny
  • Dave C.
  • Member

The car has a base 2.2L 4 cylinder fuel injected with air conditioning.

Yesterday, got the idea to remove the positive battery cable, sit for a few minutes. Hooked back up, cranked engine, fuel pump activated, but did not start. Checked error codes, came up with 11, no distributor signal. Seems it must be the Hall Effect pickup, so I'm going to order one. The ASD in the power module must be working correctly to shut off power when no distributor signsl is sensed.

What do you think? Thanks.

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Sunday, October 7th, 2012 AT 11:50 AM
  • Tiny
  • Dave C.
  • Member

Can't really say this site has any value. The responses I received from saturntech9 (expert) were pretty lame. I pretty much answered my own questions.

No hard feelings, though. You get what you pay for.

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Saturday, October 20th, 2012 AT 6:26 PM
  • Tiny
  • caradiodoc
  • Expert
  • 24,975 posts

What did you expect? You took the long way around to get to the most common failure and said you were going to order one. I would have had a spare in the glove box. You didn't ask a question so we were waiting for you to come back with the solution but you didn't even provide that. Geez, I hate it when people keep everything secret.

As for your next problem, I don't know why everyone thinks removing a battery cable is going to solve something but it will cause the Engine Computer to lose its memory. That will result in no "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you try to start the engine and the idle will remain so low the engine may not start unless you press the gas pedal 1/8". You may incorrectly assume you still have a no-start condition. It is also likely to stall when you approach stop signs.

The computer has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed. To meet the conditions for that to occur, drive it at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

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Saturday, October 20th, 2012 AT 7:24 PM
  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,406 posts

Well put caradiodoc we help thousands of people with car problems single moms diyers people that cant afford to take it to a shop. We share our knowledge and time with those in need I have been talked about worse by others water off my back.

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Sunday, October 21st, 2012 AT 2:32 AM

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