'84 CJ7 258 I6 Weber 32/36 carb TFI igniton.

Tiny
KCSCJ7
  • 1984 JEEP CJ7
  • 138,000 MILES

'84 CJ7 258 I6 Weber 32/36 carb TFI igniton upgrade. NO SPARK!

My CJ7 has been garaged for 5 years and has been a hit and miss on getting it to run consistantly ever since I put it in the garage for non-engine related issues. Please help me get it back on the road and hills where it belongs.

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Sunday, January 27th, 2013 AT 9:37 PM

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Tiny
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WHAT DOES IT DO OR NOT DO?

I HAVE A LOT OF INFO AND A LOT OF PICS

THE MEDIC

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Monday, January 28th, 2013 AT 3:53 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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The engine will crank, gas is reaching the carb, but I can not get a spark from the coil to even hit the distributor. To verify spark I am using an inline spark plug light that I have verified works. I recently replaced the ignition module (had it tested a couple of times to be sure it worked before I left the parts store) tested the ohms on the coil today and it tested within the manufactures specs for both primary and secondary.

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Monday, January 28th, 2013 AT 5:03 AM
Tiny
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JUST SAW YOUR OTHER POSTING

BEEN A LONG TIME---INSURE YOU HAVE A ROTOR BUTTON AND IT TURNS WITH THE ENGINE TURNING

LETS TEST THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP

2 TESTS1 IS FOR THE GROUND---ONE IS FOR THE WINDING. SEE MY PICS

YOUR FUEL FILTER NEEDS TO BE TURNED LITTLE T. IT UP (RETURN LINE AT 12 O'CLOCK)

I HAD A DGEV ON MINE BEFORE THE HOLLEY

THIS DIAGRAM IS OF A 1979----HAS A RESISTANCE WIRE---DOES YOURS HAVE ONE AFTER THE MODS?PIC IS OF COIL THAT IS USED WITH A CJ WITH A RESISTANCE WIRE

MY PRESENT '77 CJ 5 ORIGINALLY DID NOT HAVE ONE WITH THE ORIGINAL PRESTOLITE IGNITION---I SWITCHED OVER TO A MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM LIKE YOURS ORIGINALLY HAD.I ADDED A "BALLAST RESISTOR" TO TAKE THE PLACE OF THE RESISTANCE WIRE TO KEEP IT ALL LIKE A '79.I NOW USE A '79s COIL (SEE PIC). IF I USED ONE WITH AN INTERNAL RESISTOR I'D HAVE DOUBLE RESISTANCE.T'WOULD BE A NO-GO!

BY THE WAY. REALLY PERTTY JEEP!

MY '77 AND '46

KEEP ME POSTED AS YOU PROGRESS

THE MEDIC

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Monday, January 28th, 2013 AT 5:41 AM
Tiny
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THE INFO IN THIS LINK, MIGHT ALSO AID YOU

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

"A124" WAS WORKING STILL, A FEW DAYS AGO

THE MEDIC

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Monday, January 28th, 2013 AT 6:09 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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I tested the continuity for the pick up as you described and the ground was good, the winding however did not show continuity. I am assuming that means I get to try and take advantage of the A124 code (or one similar at a local parts store here) that you mentioned. Thanks for mentioning it, finding was to save money is always helpful. Also thanks for the note on my fuel filter I never would have made that correction if it wasn't pointed out.

I added a picture of what I think may be a ballast resister or it may be the original resister wire which is one of the few remaining original wires that I left in the jeep after I replaced the main wire harness.

Your turn,

kcscj7

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Wednesday, January 30th, 2013 AT 2:47 AM
Tiny
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ZAT ON THE POSITIVE SID OF THE COIL?

HOW 'BOUT IS THERE ANY INFO WRITTEN ON IT?.....I DO NOT RECOGNIZE THE PART

DID YOU FLOP AND MOVE THE WIRES INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE YOU WERE TESTING?.....COULD BE A BREAK IN ONE PRIOR TO IT REACHING THE PICK UP

YOU CAN STAB A STRAIGHT PIN INTO THE WIRE ON EITHER SIDE OF IT (OR USE THE COIL TERMINAL AS ONE) AND MEASURE THE VOLTAGE BEFORE AND AFTER IT

THAT IS---GROUND YOUR BLACK VOLTMETER LEAD TO THE BATTERY AND TOUCH THE STRAIGHT PIN WITH THE RED LEAD.......THEN TOUCH THE SAME WIRE (IN THE COIL CONNECTOR) W/ THE RED LEAD. SEE IF THERE IS A VOLTAGE DROP

LOOKING AT THE BLUE WIRE IN THE PIC---I'M GUESSING THAT'S PART OF A "NUTTER BYPASS"?

WHAT IS THE RECENT HISTORY PRIOR TO THE "NO BUST OFF AND RUN" SITUATION.....LIKE PLAYING WITH WIRING, ADD-ONS, OR ANYTHING SINCE IT RAN THE LAST TIME?........HOW DID IT RUN....WHEN IT DID?

I NEED YOU TO PROMISE ME SOMETHING!

I WANT YOU TO HAVE A 1/2? WRENCH HANDY----LIKE SITTING ON THE BATTERY (INSURE YOU CAN TAKE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL LOOSE FAST!!!!!!............OR INSTALL ONE OF THESE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_universal-switch-bwd_18970154-p?searchTerm=battery+switch

......AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER TOO..........WHILE WE MESS WITH THE WIRES

SEE-UNS THAT YOUR WIRING IS LOOSE (MAY BE A GOOD THING AS FAR AS, ONE MIGHT NOT MELT ANOTHER---LIKE THEY WOULD IN A WIRE LOOM

I'VE SEEN OTHER VEHICLES BURN TO THE GROUND......IF ONLY THEY HAD THOUGHT A LITTLE AHEAD (LIKE I'M DOING FOR YOU!)

DID YOU DO THE WIRING THAT I'M SEEING IN YOUR PIC?

DID YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND THE PROMO THING?....OR ANYTHING ELSE I'M SHOVELLING?

HOW'M I DOIN' AS AN INSTRUCTOR?

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, January 30th, 2013 AT 3:45 AM
Tiny
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JUST TO POUND IT IN

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=tO1HdXqRKNQ&feature=endscreen

I THREW UP, THEN HAD A SEIZURE WHEN I CLICKED ON THIS ONE!

I WILL HAVE TO STOP WATCHING THESE SCARY MOVIES---I THINK I'LL HAVE NIGHTMARES NOW

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, January 30th, 2013 AT 3:50 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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Those video's were very painful to watch! I narrowly escaped an engine fire in my CJ about a dozen years ago, had a wire melt and it begin to short others out. Since then I have always carried an extinguisher on the roll bars.

I did not flop the wires to the distributor, I only tested the end terminals for continuity like what was pictured. Am I supposed to be checking for continuity only? And now checking for voltage to verify the location of a possible break in the wire?

I replaced the original wire harness about 9 years ago, so yes all the wires you see loose and not in a loom are my doing. I re-wired it as close to the original layout as I could. I DID NOT wire up a "Nutter Bypass." Thought about it, but if caught during an emissions test where I live it's an instant failure.

Since the last time I had it on the road I have added 2 new pig tails the the wiring, everything else electrically speaking has remained the same. 1st - a pig tail from the engine block to the ground wire on the male side of the distributor plug. (The blue wire tied into the black wire pictured over the oil filter in the photo) 2nd - a pig tail from the I post on the starter solenoid to the positive lead on the ignition coil. The jeep ran fine without these additions, but after some long hours reading the schematics out of my factory service manual I noticed the connections were missing.
The only other mods I have done since it last ran was I swapped out the original gas tank to a 21 gal gas tank and replaced all the fuel lines.

The wire/resister? In the photo that I attached is terminated on the negative side of the coil. I have never been able to find any info on it but since it has always been there and the schematics reference one there that's what I figured it was.

The last time I had success with the engine turning over and running on its own was approx 6 months ago. It ran for about a minute then created so much back pressure it shut it's self down and back fired through the carburetor. Timing issue? Possibly bad fuel/air mix?

I have used many of your earlier troubleshooting posts of other jeeps on this website as a valuable source of information. As an instructor for me, you have been the best I have found in 14 years of searching. My jeep has MANY unanswered issues that I have struggled to find the solution for. If you have the availability I have the ears to listen and hands to work to make this jeep right.

I am following all of what you are "shoveling" out and yes I fully understood your explanation and concept of maximizing the savings available. Get more. Pay less.

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Wednesday, January 30th, 2013 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
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(And now checking for voltage to verify the location of a possible break in the wire?)

NEGATIVE!--CONTINUITY ONLY FOR THE PICK-UP ON THE DISTRIBUTOR. SHAKE/ PUSH/ PULL WHILE DOING SO---SEE IF CONTINUITY FLICKERS ON THE VOLTMETER

YOU CAN ALSO USE A 1.5 - 3 VOLT BATTERY OPERATED "CONTINUITY LIGHT" TO DO THIS *****NOT A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT!*****THIS MIGHT EVEN BE QUICKER TO SEE THAN A DIGITAL VOLTMETER

YOU CAN EVEN "MacGYVER" YOU ONE USING A SMALL FLASH-LIGHT AND SOME JUMPER WIRES

AS FAR AS USING USING 12 VOLTS FOR A TEST (KEY ON). TEST THE VOLTAGE ON EITHER SIDE OF WHAT TO THINK IS A BALLAST RESISTORIF IT IS, THE VOLTAGE WILL BE LOWER ON THE COIL SIDE OF IT. IF IT'S THE SAME. IT PROBABLY IS SOMETHING ELSE

GOT MORE IN A BIT---HAVE MISSION RIGHT NOW. BACK IN A FEW HOURS

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, January 30th, 2013 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
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YOU STILL CAN POSSIBLY USE THE advanceautoparts. Com SITE FOR PARTS

YOU DON'T NECESSARILY HAVE TO PICK THEM UP AT THE STORE, LIKE I'M DOING (EXCEPT FOR SOME STUFF LIKE BATTERIES) DURING THE ORDER PROCESS, THEY WILL TELL YOU WHETHER IT IS "SHIPPABLE" OR NOT, WHEN YOU CLICK ON THE "SHIP TO ME OPTION"

YOU CAN DO A "DRY RUN" TO SEE WHAT IT WILL DO, PRIOR TO PAYING AND COMPLETING THE ORDER

. SO WHAT, YOU WAIT 3 MORE DAYS, SHIPPING MIGHT BE $10. DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ORDER, $40 MINUS $10 = $30 $30 IS $30 ! ! ! IN MY BOOK ANYWAY. THAT'S LIKE SQUEEZING THE THE TRIGGER ON THE NOZZLE AT GAS STATION, FOR MAYBE A FULL 10 SECONDS!

OK---I JUST SPENT A WHILE TRYING TO 'SPLAIN THE NUTTER vs THE WAY I'VE DONE IT ON OTHER JEEPS, I ONE PIC.I HOPE I 'SPAINED IT RIGHT!

ALSO WHEN I HAVE SHORTENED THE SALVAGE YARD "FORD WIRE HARNESS" (AS WHEN I HAVE BEEN OUT "PICKING" THE ONES WITH 4 WIRES WERE ALWAYS WAY LONGER THAN FOR THE JEEP'S NEEDS) WHEN I SHORTENED THEM, I USED HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND SOLDERED THE WIRES TOGETHER, BUTT SPLICING, SOMETIMES OVER TIME WILL SHAKE LOOSE AND IS MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CORROSION

WHEN YOU RESPOND AGAIN, WITH ASSURANCE YOU WILL NOT LET YOUR JEEP TURN INTO A "CRISPY CRITTER" WE WILL DO A LITTLE "BYPASS JUMPERING" TO SEE IF WE CAN MAKE IT BUST OFF. THEN WE WILL DECIDE WHAT TO DO TO GET IT RUNNING THRU THE NORMAL SYSTEM

HAVE YOU HAD THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT?

WE MAY WANNA START THERE (I'LL GUIDE YOU THRU THE PROCESS, IF YOU DID NOT FULY KNOW, YOU WILL WHEN WE GET DONE!) JUST TO INSURE IT IS ALL LINED UP LIKE IT SHOULD BE

I'M NOT MR. CYBER GUY, I ONLY TOUCHED A KEYBOARD FOR THE 1ST TIME, IN DEC 'O9 WHEN I WAS LAID UP WITH A BROKEN FOOT W/ COMPLICATIONS.I CONSTANTLY CALLED MY SISTER AND MADE HER COME OVER TO 'SPLAIN STUFF TO ME.

HOW DID YOU COME ACROSS MY STUFF? IS IT POPULAR ON SEARCHES? WILD GUESSING, HOW MANY OF MY JEEP POST ANSWERINGS HAVE YOU GANDERED AT?

LEMME KNOW ABOUT THE DISTRIBUTOR

THE MEDIC

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Thursday, January 31st, 2013 AT 3:23 AM
Tiny
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ANY GOOD STUFF HAPPEN YET?

THE MEDIC

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Saturday, February 2nd, 2013 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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Had some things pull me a way momentarily so I haven't been able to work more on the troubleshooting.

I read through the picture explaining the differences between the Nutter Bypass and your way and I'm not sure I understand the picture correctly. Is the difference, that you splice in a Ford wire harness rather than just jumper the wires?

I will check my fire extinguisher and make sure it's still good as well as any other precautions I need to make sure my jeep doesn't burn to the ground. I've spent to much time trying to get it back up and running to let it go down like that.

About the distributor. I did a bad bad thing. I have had it out and before I did I forgot to mark it. I think it is back in the right position but honestly I'm not 100% certain. Before I took it out the engine would back fire up through the carb as the engine was shutting down but not like it does currently when I can get it to turn over, now it's a lot worse. Since I pulled the distributor I have been having the intermittent spark issues and been struggling to get an idle long enough to hold a timing light on it to dial it in.

I originally came across one of your older posts from a Google search where you explaining to another jeeper how to troubleshoot no spark. Then I figured out how to find more posts you had helped out with on this website so I could try to continue to increase my own knowledge. Cause one thing I've learned form owning my jeep is that if you don't have a surplus expense fund dedicated to repairs, you better know how to do it yourself! Your explanations backed up with photos is very helpful.

I'm hoping to be able to have my hands back in the jeep in the next few days. Where would you have me begin or continue from?

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Saturday, February 2nd, 2013 AT 6:16 AM
Tiny
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JUST SAW THIS NOTIFICATION---I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG YOU'VE BEEN WAITING

THE DISTRIBUTOR IS A NICE THING TO KNOW

I WILL TRY TO EXPLAIN THIS --- AFTER I GO SMOKE ME A MENTHOL!

DO YOU HAVE A TACH/ DWELL METER?

TIMING LIGHT?

WE WILL NEED THIS TO GET THE DISTRIBUTOR DEAD ON AND ALSO TO TWEAK ON THE CARB (A BIT LATER)

THIS NEW BIT OF INFORMATION MAY BE THE SOLUTION TO IT RUNNING!

BACK IN A BIT

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, February 3rd, 2013 AT 6:31 AM
Tiny
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ALL RIGHTY THEN

JUST SHOWING YOU---DOES NOT MAKE YOU KNOW THE WHYs (NECESSARY, WHEN I'M NOT AROUND)

DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT 4 STROKE MEANS?

ANY QUESTIONS---ASK BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

I'M NOT INTO ALL OF THESE "HIGH SPEED MODS", THE BASICS HAVE WORKED FOR ME SINCE I GOT # 1 BACK IN 1981----I DO DO "IMPROVEMENT MODS" OR "USER FRIENDLIER MODS"........NOT MUCH FOR JACKING ONE WAY UP OR RACING ONE

THIS IS HOW A 258 WORKS----OTHER ENGINES ARE SIMILAR!

LOOK AT PIC 1VIEWED FROM THE TOP OF THE DISTRIBUTORTHE FIRING ORDER IS 1--5--3--6--2--4 IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION

PIC 1 IS MY JEEP----MY WIRES ARE ON EXACTLY AS THE BOOK SHOWS

HERE'S THE THING---IT WILL STILL WORK---IF I PUT NUMBER 1 WIRE ANYWHERETHEN START THE CLOCKWISE SEQUENCE FROM THAT POINTTHE THING THAT MOST DO NOT UNDERSTAND IS THE ENGINE MUST BE ON TOP DEAD CENTER---THEN WHEN YOU INSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR THE ROTOR BUTTON MUST POINT AT #1 WIRE/ TOWER.....WHEREVER #1 IS!!!!.....THE ENGINE DON'T CARE AS LONG AS EVERYTHING IS LINED UP INTERNALLY!

JUST TO KEEP THINGS ORDERLY---WE WILL INSTALL YOURS BY THE BOOK TOO---THEN IN THE FUTURE---THE BOOK WILL MAKE MORE SENSE---SHOULD YOU FORGET THIS STUFF

SO LOOK AT #1 WIRE ON MINE, IT'S JUST ABOVE THE END OF THE VACUUM ADVANCE ARM THAT YOU CAN SEE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR----1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCKWISE----INSURE THEY CORRESPOND WITH THE SPARK PLUGS...."1" IS AT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE---"6" IS AT THE BACK!

NOW THEN---TAKE A MARKER AND MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY BELOW THE PLASTIC DISTRIBUTOR CAP---WITH A VERTICAL LINE---SEE PIC 2

THE NEXT THING I WILL SHOW YOU IS I LIKE TO EXPLAIN TURNING THE ENGINE OVER WITH A RATCHET OR WRENCH---SEE PIC 3

IF YOU BUMP IT WITH THE KEY OR WITH A "REMOTE STARTER"---YOU RUN THE RISK OF OVERSHOOTING TDC (AND NOT KNOW IT)

THE RATCHET/ WRENCH WILL DO JUST FINE FOR GETTING A "COMPRESSION SPIT"

YOU WILL REMOVE #1 SPARK PLUG ---SO YOU CAN STICK YOUR THUMB IN THE HOLE----OR YOU CAN LEAVE THE PLUG IN WITH MAYBE JUST 2 OR 3 THREADS HOLDING IT IN

THE IDEA HERE IS TO ROTATE THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE ---MAYBE UP TO 2 REVOLUTIONS ---REMEMBER THIS IS A 4 STROKE---IT WILL ONLY BUILD COMPRESSION ONE TIME IN 2 REVOLUTIONS

WHEN IT DOES---BUILD COMPRESSION---YOU WILL HEAR A "SPIT" AT YOUR THUMB---OR A "HISS" AT THE VERY LOOSE #1 SPARK PLUG

STOP----STOP ---STOP!!!!

WE ARE STARTING COMPRESSION!.........(NORMALLY COMPRESSING THE AIR/ FUEL MIXTURE IF IT WERE RUNNING)

WE WANT TO FINALLY STOP AT THE "END OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE"

WHEN THE ENGINE "IS" RUNNING---THIS IS THE EDGE OF THE CLIFF!

THE PISTON WILL START "DOWN" AND THE SPARK PLUG WOULD THEN FIRE.......(FIRES ON THE "POWER STROKE")......THIS IS THE REASON WE MUST POINT THE ROTOR BUTTON AT #1.......WE ARE DEALING WITH THE #1s VALVE TIMING......#1 IS THE ONE THAT SHOULD BE FIRING NOW!!!!

WE ARE ALMOST THERE!

FORGET THE HISS AND SPIT....IT HAS GOTTEN YOU CLOSE TO WHERE YOU NEED TO BE!

WE WILL NOW VERY SLOWLY CONTINUE TO TURN THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE WHILE WATCHING THE TIMING MARKS!

WE WANT TO STOP ON "0" (ZERO) SEE PIC 4

THE MARKS SHOULD COME UP IN LESS THAN A 1/2 REVOLUTION OF THE CRANK (PROBABLY MORE LIKE A 1/4 TURN)IF YOU WENT ANY FURTHER THAN 1/2 A TURN..........

DO IT AGAIN FROM THE BEGINNING.....YOU WENT TOO FAR!!!

----ON A 258 "ZERO" IS THE 2ND MARK UP FROM THE BOTTOM---ZERO IS TOP DEAD CENTER OR "TDC"

TDC IS OUT TIMING ALIGNMENT "KNOW POINT"EVERYTHING IS IN SYNC WITH THIS--LIKE THE CAM AND DISTRIBUTOR

YOU MIGHT USE SOME CARB CLEANER AND CLEAN YOUR TIMING MARKS----WHITE OUT IN THE HARMONIC BALANCER MARK WILL MAKE IT STAND OUT

OK

WONDERFUL!!!

WE ARE ON TDC!!!!!

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND SEE WHERE THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING

IF IT'S DEAD ON AT YOUR MARK (OR VERY CLOSE) THAT YOU DREW ON THE BODY.........NORMAL TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT WILL MAKE IT RIGHT

IF IT'S POINTING ELSEWHERE----TAKE THE HOLD DOWN FORK OFF LIFT THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT SLIGHTLY (SHOULD BE A ROUND GASKET UNDER IT)

IT WILL TWIST THE ROTOR SHAFT, ON THE WAY UP

ROTATE THE ROTOR BUTTON SO THAT AS IT SLIDES BACK IN---WHEN IT SITS ALL OF THE WAY DOWN THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING AT YOUR MARK

ALMOST DONE!!!!

IT MAY NOT SIT BACK DOWN ALL OF THE WAY?????....WHY????

DON'T FORCE IT!!!

THE BOTTOM END OF YOUR DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT IS A "FAT STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER POINT"

OF YOU LOOK DOWN IN THE DISTRIBUTOR HOLE WITH A FLASHLIGHT YOU WILL SEE A SLOT LIKE A STRAIGHT SCREW HEAD IN THE BOTTOM..........THIS IS THE OIL PUMP !!!

AS THE CAM TURNS THE DISTRIBUTOR---THE DISTRIBUTOR TURN THE OIL PUMP!

THIS IS SIMPLE ---IT MAY TAKE A FEW TRIES

WE NEED TO LINE UP THE OIL PIMP SHAFT WITH A LONG SCREWDRIVER---SO THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL DROP IN FULLY......I USUALLY GIVE IT AN 1/8TH OF A TURN AND TRY TO DROP IT IN--ANOTHER 1/8TH AND TRY---ANOTHER 1/8TH......

IN THE END

YOU HAVE NOT MOVED THE ENGINE (CRANK) FROM TDC---THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY----HAS AMPLE CW AND CCW ABILITY WITHOUT BOTTOMING AGAINST THE BLOCK (SO WE CAN TIME IT)---THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING AT THE MARK ON THE DISTRIBUTOR---THE DISTRIBUTOR IS ALL THE WAY DOWN IN IT'S HOLE

PUT THE HOLD DOWN FORK ONINSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP

REMEMBER---I DON'T LIKE TO BUMP WITH THE STARTER---YOU WIND UP OVERSHOOTING THE MARKS---YOU DO THE REST OF THE PROCEDURE........YOU ARE NOW 180 DEGREES OFF.....BUT YOU THINK YOU ARE ON????

I'M SENDING "DAVID AND CHAD" TO GIVE YOU A HAND.....LET THEM EXPLAIN THIS A FEW TIMES BEFORE YOU START.....THEY DON'T MIND AT ALL!

CLASS 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

CLASS 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=endscreen

OK---LATE AND I'M TIRED......I THINK I HAVE TOLD YOU CORRECTLY

ASK IF THERE'S AN ISSUE

SEND PICS OF YOUR ENGINE---GETTING STUFF CORRECT---THEN CORRECT TIMING---THEN CARB TUNING ARE GONNA BE NEXT!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, February 3rd, 2013 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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Going back to an earlier troubleshooting post, I checked the voltage on the 2 distributor wires and both read the same voltage (.63) checked the ground again for continuity all the way to the distributor body and no issues,

While trying to find TDC there was a hiss only once for every full revolution of the timing marks. I eventually got my timing mark set to 0 degrees (photo 1) and aligned my roter and the mark on the distributor body. (Photo 2) I replaced the cap lining up the roter with #1 on the cap (photo 3) and verifing #1 is inline with the mark on the distributor body. (Photo 4)

I do not have a tach or dwell meter, I do have a timing light.

Ready for what's next.

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Monday, February 4th, 2013 AT 2:44 AM
Tiny
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SENT YOU A MESSAGE---GO TOP RIGHT OF PAGE--CLICK ON YOUR NAME TO FIND "MESSAGES"

THE MEDIC

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Monday, February 4th, 2013 AT 2:56 AM
Tiny
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AS WE MESSAGED

THE ENGINE IS AT "TDC"WHERE IT STANDS NOW---LOOKING AT THE PICS

THE DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS TO BE PICKED UP AND MOVE THE ROTOR BUTTON "ONE COG" CW (MAYBE 2)----SET IT BACK DOWN. INSURE THE OIL PUMP GETS TWEAKED CLOCKWISE ALSO SO THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL FULLY SIT DOWN

THE REASON WE WANT TO MOVE ONE OR TWO COGS CW ISWHEN WE TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY TO MATCH THE MARKWE WILL HAVE SOME LEE-WAY TO TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR WHEN WE TIME IT

AS IT STANDS NOW (EVERYTHING LOOKED GOOD. EXCEPT)THE BAD THING IS, IF WE HAD TO TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR CCW TO TIME IT----WE WOULD HIT THE ENGINE BLOCK, BEFORE WE REACHED OUR DESIRED TIMING SETTING. LEARNING EXPERIENCE!

ONCE WE FEEL SURE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS INSTALLED RIGHTLET'S SEE IF IT WILL FIRE UP!

JUST TO MAKE IT RUN---I'D SAY YOU COULD MOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS (NOT DEGREES) FROM THE PRESENT SETTING, 3/4 OF AN INCH MOVEMENT, EITHER WAY MAY GET IT TO RUN. TWEAK IT "BY EAR" TO SMOOTH IT OUT. TIMING LIGHT WILL BE THE NEXT BEST THING TO GET IT DEAD ON!

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, February 5th, 2013 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
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SEE-UNS HOW IT LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE REWIRED THE WHOLE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

YOU MAY NOT HAVE KNOWN THAT YOU REPLACED THE "RESISTANCE WIRE", WHICH IS IN-BETWEEN 2 SPLICES (SEE DIAGRAM), WITH A PLAIN JANE COPPER WIRE

THIS WIRE REDUCES THE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL---OTHERWISE, OVER TIME, YOU WILL BURN UP IGNITION COMPONENTS IF YOU RUN FULL BATTERY/ ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE TO IT CONSTANTLY

NORMALLY, YOU GET AN INITIAL BOOST OF FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE AT "START-UP", PROVIDED THRU THE "I" TERMINAL OF THE SOLENOID. WHEN THE KEY IS RELEASED FROM THE "START POSITION"."I TERMINAL" DIES AND THE RESISTOR WIRE (OR BALLAST) TAKES OVER WITH REDUCED VOLTAGE (WHICH ORIGINATES AT THE "ON POSITION" OF THE KEY)

IN AN DESPERATE SITUATION, YOU CAN JUMP A PLAIN WIRE OVER THE RESISTANCE WIRE (IF IT'S BROKEN SOMEWHERE---OR REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE BALLAST RESISTOR AND CONNECT THEM DIRECTLY---JUST TO SORTA "GET YOU HOME"

.I'VE YET TO SEE THE FACTORY RESISTANCE WIRE GO BAD (WITHOUT SOME HELP). BUT THIS IS GOOD INFO TO KNOW ABOUT THE BALLAST RESISTOR (I'VE SEEN THEM GO OUT A FEW TIMES) WHEN YOU ARE SCRATCHING YOUR HEAD ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THEN YOU BREAK OUT YOUR "TRAVEL VOLTMETER" AND FIND NO VOLTAGE TO THE POS SIDE OF THE COIL. AND YOU DO HAVE IT ON ONE SIDE OF THE BALLAST, BUT NOT THE OTHER. REMOVE AND CONNECT THE WIRES, AND YOU ARE IN BUSINESS!

PICS
1) BALLAST RESISTOR
2) COIL FOR 1979--1986 CJs AND 1987-1989 WRANGLER
3) I UPGRADED MY '77 PRESTOLITE IGN TO A '79 AND UP MOTORCRAFT IGN (FOR SEVERAL REASONS). THIS IS WHERE I PUT MY BALLAST RESISTOR
4) IGNITION DIAGRAM FOR A 1979LOCATION OF RESISTANCE WIRE AND BALLAST RESISTOR ARE THE SAME FOR LATER YEARS

EVERY THING ELSE IS THE SAME TOO, EXCEPT FOR THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE MODULE TO THE DISTRIBUTOR
5) EXPLANATION OF THE SOLENOID----WHY I PUT THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE OPPOSITE FROM "THE BOOK" ON THE SOLENOID
6) THE REASON I DID THE "SWAP" ( STARTER CABLE IS NOW FURTHEST FROM "S" TERMINAL)
7) TESTING VOLTAGE AT POS SIDE OF COIL
8) ADVANCE AUTO PARTS---STORE TESTER FOR IGN MODULES---I LAID THE PIGTAIL OUT FOR THE MOTORCRAFT MODULE RIGHT BESIDE IT (THERE ARE PIGTAILS FOR MANY OTHER APPLICATIONS)
9) ONE OF MY REMOTE STARTERS

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, February 5th, 2013 AT 5:45 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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WHAT?

WHERE'D MY PICS GO?

I TRY AGAIN

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Tuesday, February 5th, 2013 AT 6:07 AM
Tiny
KCSCJ7
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Well I tested the positive side of the coil with the key on and I got full battery voltage, so I will be checking out the parts store to pick up a ballast resister.

I pulled the distributor and rotated the cog cw to get the vacuum advance bell away from my engine block keeping the rotor button and the #1 post inline with each other.

I found an old automotive analyzer in my garage that has a dwell tachometer in it among a bunch of other features. Also it had the original owners manual with it so I will be reading it to try and figure out how to make the most of this newly found piece of equipment that I didn't know I had.

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Wednesday, February 6th, 2013 AT 5:31 AM

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