1976 Ford F-150 Electrical demons.

Tiny
WHYME1976
  • MEMBER
  • 1976 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 1,000 MILES
Hi. I have a '76 F-150 with the 4.9 300 6L. I rebuilt it and has 1000 mi. Problem: right after rebuild, under a load, it wants to spuder out and if I keep on it it will backfire out the exhaust. One day, when starting at a store, it's dead. Check under the hood and my negative battery connector has melted itself in half. Months later, as in yesterday, I get the solonoid to click or just 1 hard click from the starter, as if battery is dead. Jumping does not work. I even notice there's no draw coming from the running vehical when the jumper cables are connected. Eventually it starts like it has a full battery charge without a jump. Battery load tested good. Alternator tested good 4 times. Has brand new starter, solonoid, voltage regulator, battery cable/connectors and ECM. Please fro the love of God help. I'm at a loss.
Tuesday, August 12th, 2014 AT 7:26 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC II
  • MEMBER
  • 222 POSTS
ABOUT THE "DEAD PART"

REALLY LOOK THIS LINK OVER AND MY PICS TOO!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

AS FAR AS THE SPUTTER PART

CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS WELL?

MAYBE YOU FAILED TO REMOVE AND CAP THE ADVANCE VACUUM HOSE TO THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE PERFORMING THE TIMING PROCEDURE?

MAYBE A SPRING BROKE ON THE CENTRIFUGAL WEIGHTS INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR? (NOW IT WON'T ADVANCE AS RPMs INCREASE) I'M SPEAKING OF THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE

IMMA JEEP CJ GUY, I'VE TALKED MANY JEEPS THRU TUNE UP

MAYBE THIS LONG POST COULD HELP YOU, I'M USING MY 258 (4.2) 6 CYLINDER AS A GUIDE. SEE THIS LINK!

IT IS 2 PAGES LONG!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

RETURN WITH GOOD NEWS!

THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, August 12th, 2014 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
WHYME1976
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Don't know if I fixed the problem, will update tomarrow, but I did find and fix a problem that seems to have solved everything. I put a test light in series on my negative terminal and found that I have a parasitic draw (which I kind of presumed). When battery was disconnected it was holding at 12.84v. When battery was connected, truck off, it was drawing about 2v and loosing 1/10v every 30 seconds or so. After pulling fuses and nothing, I yanked the radio out that I put in 7 years ago. To be honest I half @$$ed that as much as one could. Splicing into wires and what not. Checked for parasitic draw, nothing. Hooked battery up, truck off, holding at 12.85v, no draw. Started it up, holds around 13.6v. Ran her around the block and the sputtering, though it may be my excitement/imagination, seems to be gone. Been 30 min hooked up and still holding at 12.83v. I will update tomarrow as to the outcome overnight. Also, I took a lot of your advice as far as connections go and gave her a once over. Thanks for all the information and help. I'll upadte tomarrow.
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Wednesday, August 13th, 2014 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If your clamp melted then it was either loose or dirty at either end. Check for burnt up fusible links running off of your starter relay and check dist cap for cracks/carbon tracking.
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Thursday, August 14th, 2014 AT 6:00 AM

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