HELLO I WAS DRIVING MY BEETLE DOWN THE HWY AT 60...
1974 Volkswagen Beetle
December, 30, 2012 AT 10:54 PM
Great man! I appreciate your help on this. I will try this tomorrow during the day and report back here for sure to let you know. You can probably tell that I am not too mechanically inclined but let me see if I understand you correctly on the grounded points. When I purchased a set of new points, there was a wire already attached to them and then they plugged into a prong inside where the points set. Is this the grounding wire?
December, 30, 2012 AT 10:59 PM
No, that wire attaches to the condensor wire, which attaches to the coil NEG terminal. This is still the "power" side.
The points mount to the distributor. There has to be metal to metal contact for the point to ground out.
Look for another wire. It should be bare and attached to the plate that the points attach to.
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:03 PM
Ok, Im going to run out and test this now with the test light and look for this wire. I will be back in a few. You have been very helpful and appreciate your time thusfar. I will be back in a few.
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:21 PM
Ok man, I don't what this means but the NEGATIVE or terminal 1 is not testing at all. I cannot get a light to come on period. The test light comes on with the wire on 15 or the ignition wire so my light is good and I have the ignition "on" but I cannot get the test light to come on at all on the negative side of the coil. I don't know what this means. I did turn the pulley to make sure that the points were not contacting or to make sure the engine was not in the cycle where the light should NOT be on.?
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:24 PM
If the light does not come on, then that means your points (negative side of the coil) are always grounded.
To be sure, disconnect the green condenser wire from the coil. Re-attach the test light to coil neg and see if the light now comes ON when the key
is ON. If yes, then the coil is good, if no, then the coil has an open.
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:38 PM
My wire is red but it is the only one that runs from the side of the distibutor to the negative side of the coil so I believe you are referring to this wire. Yes, when I take this wire off and now nothing is attached to the negative side of the coil, the test light still does not come on. This is the new coil as well. Could this mean that the new coil is bad? Also, is there a way that I could test the old coil to see if it is bad without having to place it back in the vehicle?
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:41 PM
Also, ya know my "know it all brother" came down when I first started having trouble with the car and just after I bought the new coil and he wanted to replace the coil (since he can do everything) and when he did he placed the ignition wire, originally to the Negative side of the coil and burned the set of NEW points up that I had in there then. Due to this, I had to go buy ANOTHER set of new points since it fried the wire that is inside attached to the points. Would this have possible fried the coil as well?
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:43 PM
You are not using a magnetic pick-up are you? Usually the condenser wire is green.
You can do the same test with the old coil without mounting it. Just attach Ignition + wire to #15 and attach your test light to the - of the coil.
If you have time, take pictures of various components and post them here so I can see.
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:45 PM
You can install a coil backwards. It will not produce as much power, but should not burn out.
December, 30, 2012 AT 11:47 PM
I am not sure about the magnetic pick up as to what his is. I will take pictures now and up load them. Take me about 15 minutes