1966 Chevrolet Corvair headlights stopped working

Tiny
PGADDY
  • MEMBER
  • 1966 CHEVROLET CORVAIR
  • 1.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 94,000 MILES
Hi All I'm new at this so please bear with me, I bought a 1966 convertible Monza last September that needs some TLC. I have run into a problem regarding the headlights. About a week ago they stopped working. I thought the problem to be in the dimmer light switch located on the dash board as I had o replace the light switch and the wiring harness to the dash board. When the switch is in the parking light position the parking lights front and rear come on as normal. When I pull the switch to the full on position neither the hi or low beams or the parking lights come on. The only abnormal thing that happens my tan wires never show current in any position. I have checked wiring continuity and every thing checks out fine. Help! I would greatly appreciate any advice, help or direction to get help regarding this problem. You can reach me by e-mail pgaddy@yahoo. Com or my phone is 808-284-0064
Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 7:16 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,332 POSTS
What happens when you put the old switch back in? Do you have a service manual with a wiring diagram?
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
PGADDY
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Yes I have the service manual with the wiring diagram on paper and disc.
When I put the old switch in the problem still exists with no changes in voltage or wiring continuity. I read on one of the forums that the connector to the switch may be the trouble. Though I don't see how if I get voltage readings on everything except the tan wires they are the only other doubled up on one post besides the red wires which are hot all the time and run directly to the low-beam head lights. The tan wires according to the wiring diagram go directly to the low beam head lights.
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 4:18 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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  • 34,332 POSTS
What they're referring to about bad connectors has to do when something overheats. Most of the time arced internal switch contacts build up heat that further degrades those contacts. That causes more heat build-up until the contacts fail. By that time the heat has migrated out to the connector terminals and caused the same problem there. Most commonly you'll see the switch has turned to charcoal around the rivets on two of the terminals, and the plastic connector body will be melted around the two mating terminals. The proper repair for that is obviously to replace the switch, but you also have to cut out and replace the two blackened terminals. There's more to it than that, and I can fill in the details if that becomes necessary.

For now, since you have the diagram and appear to know which wires are for what, start by bypassing the switch to verify everything else works. Jump the tan wire to the red wire. The low beam lights should work.

Is this a new switch or a used one?
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
PGADDY
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I have two new light switches if you look closely at the fotos you can see that the two red wires and the connector area where it connects to the switch is badly melted but the wires are hot so I will attempt to jump the tan wires with the red and see if I get lights thks peter
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Saturday, February 15th, 2014 AT 9:35 PM

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