Why does my engine have low power it will not accelerate?

Tiny
PATRICK.MCKENNA27
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I have replaced the following items:
1. Camshaft position sensor.
2. Engine wire harness.
3. Upstream O2 sensor.
4. Fuel pump.
5. Injectors.
6. Coils.
7. Spark plugs and wires.
8. Misfire sensor.

I have also cleaned the Idle Air Control and the throttle body.

I am at my wits end, what else can I do?
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,205 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. You have already done a lot of work and eliminated many of the possible problems. However, I have to ask if you checked engine timing as well as the catalytic converter to see if it is plugged.

To start, here are general symptoms of a plugged converter:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Here are general directions to check one:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

As well as a video:
https://youtu.be/kNXh1Lphzr4

I realize the ignition timing is controlled by the PCM, but here are the specs for where it should be. (see attached picture 1)
In addition, there is a ignition adjustment cable you should check if timing is an issue. Make sure it is getting power, is clean and tight, and no damage to the wiring. See attached pictures for location. I have also attached pictures of many of the sensors located under the hood because if the converter and timing check good, I want you to get a live scanner and check the coolant temperature sensor. (CTS). It tells the PCM the engine's temperature and from that, the computer adjusts air and fuel mixture. If it is too rich or lean due to an inaccurate reading, it will cause drive-ability problems.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions as well as what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESARAM
  • MEMBER
  • 39 POSTS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 180,000 MILES
I have a 2004 hyundai sonata 5 spd manual trans. The problem is that its arcing from where my spark plugs are located. I have replaced my spark plugs, the wires and I have used dielectric grease. I also tried it with other coils but it still keeps arcing. I have tried everything I could think of. It sparks only when I accelerate from the engine. I really don't know what to do.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
What size engine do you have? What kind of spark plugs did you use? Did you gap them depending on type of plug? SPECIFICATION: 0.039-0.043 (1.0-1.1mm) over gapped plugs will cause the high voltage to take the path of least resistance. Talk to you soon, TY
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESARAM
  • MEMBER
  • 39 POSTS
Thanks for your answer. I have some auto lite double platinum spark plugs in it I gapped the at 0.044 because that's what the guys at autozone said it had to be. As I mentioned before I already tried other coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs but it still arcs and its every time I accelerate from the engine. The engine is a DOHC 16 valve 2.4L.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Is there any oil down any of the four spark plug tubes? If not you may have what is called carbon tracing. This carbon trace conducts electricity and provides a shorter route to ground than the spark plugs do.
Can you see were it is arcing? Or isolate which cylinder is arcing?
Let me know, TY
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESARAM
  • MEMBER
  • 39 POSTS
It arcs from the coils but sometimes it runs thru the wires. Like I mentioned to you before I replaced wires, spark plugs and even tried other coils but kept doing the same thing. You could hear the current running thru the wires
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Can you see the arc occurring?
Does the engine run rough at idle or when accelerating?
Is there a check engine or service engine soon light on when cycling the key and with the engine running?

When it is dark outside (it is easier to see arcing when it is dark) run the engine and spray some water on the coils with a spray bottle (mist) you should see a bluish arcing whenever the coil discharges. Try this then get back to me, TY
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESARAM
  • MEMBER
  • 39 POSTS
Yeah I can see the electric discharge. My car on neutral is at 800 rpms about. When I accelerate and the rpms reach 1000 my car hits them rough. There is no lights on the dash. I took it to a mechanic to get it scanned but he said he got no codes. Also every time I turn my a/c on my car shakes heavily and drops to 500-600 rpms.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
The only possible causes of electrical leaks could be: over gaped spark plugs, defective spark plugs, spark plug wires, and defective ignition coil. These are the only possible sources for arc to come through and ground out. So, one or more of the above components has got to be causing the arcing. Talk to you soon, TY
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESARAM
  • MEMBER
  • 39 POSTS
The current jumps from my coils but I already tried others but it did the same. I am going to try and regap my spark plugs. They are brand new but they just might be gaped wrong. I used an old gaping tool (worn a bit down). Thanks for your advise :)
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LISA LEE LEE STILES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 4.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 193,000 MILES
Hi, sorry to bother you, but I am tired of the guessing games with my car. I have put a fuel pump in, checked spark plugs ( all are firing), put wholes in the catalytic converter, took the whole converter off and cleaned it out, and we have cleaned the injectors. But I still have no power when it cranks up sometimes it dies, but when you put it in reverse it will die sometimes when you put it in drive at first it might go five or ten mph for like the first ten minutes going down the road it will eventually pick up to about forty or forty five mph but hardly ever over that when you try to give it more gas it bogs down going up a hill, yeah it just does not happen at all.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FREEMBA
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,152 POSTS
Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure (post it here, please). Fuel pressure should read 46 - 49 psi at idle. If the fuel pressure is low it could result in the condition you have described.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DSIMS6465
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2001 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 136,000 MILES
Will not accelerate after warm up, it bogs and shuts off. No DTCs! Cannot attain 3,000 rpm. Crank, cam, and knock sensors, okay. New coils, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, O2 sensors, fuel and air filters.

Dsims6465
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,293 POSTS
At this age and mileage, the next thing that I would do is to check the fuel pressure. You can borrow a pressure gauge from AutoZone or whatever parts store is nearby. There is a valve that it connects to on the fuel rail. Find the fuse for the pump and pull it. Then try starting the car a few times. Maybe 10 times actually. This relieves the pressure. Then connect your gauge. Now put the fuse back in. Turn the key on and off about 10 times, but do not start the car yet. Leave the key on. Record the pressure.

Now start it and record the pressure again. Record the pressure again when it starts hesitating and dying.

Report those numbers here and I'll look up what it should be. I'd go ahead and get those numbers, but my 3 year old just woke up from his nap and he's angry.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DSIMS6465
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks for the try, but this is not a fuel pressure problem. And the fuel pump has been changed twice with new units. When warm the car will not rev up in neutral! And the problem is somehow temp related. When cold, the car is drivable. Also, the ECU, MAF, CKP, and CMP sensors have been changed. Nothing has changed the behavior.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,909 POSTS
It sounds like the catalytic converter can be clogging when warm but to confirm the issue lets go over this guide to see

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
QUINNER6969
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
For the past six months I have had acceleration problems in 2001 Sonata. I had the spark plugs replaced about three months ago and all that did was stop the car from shaking like crazy. Also when I accelerate there is an ocasionally a popping sound coming from the engine. About two months ago I was driving on the Hwy and all of a sudden the car would not go over 40 km/hr and was making a noise similar sound to a bad muffler but coming from the engine. I was advised by a friend to unhook the battery to reset the computer. I left it unhooked all night and the next morning the issue seemed to be resolved but still had poor acceleration. I took it to the dealer because I didn't want this to happen again. They said the only code they where getting was a bad outout speed sensor. After they fixed this the car had no issues except for the poor acceleration still. Today driving on the hwy I had the same issue. The car would not go above 40 and there was a loud deep sound coming out of the engine that I can only decribe as sounding like a bad muffler. I don't want to have to keep replacing the sensor every couple of months as this could be very expensive. Is there anything that could be causing the sensor to keep going bad like this? The mechanic at the dealer said that replacing the sensor should fix the loss of power problem but they would need to look further to find the problem with the poor acceleration. Which of course will cost more money.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,205 POSTS
First, I would expect the VSS they installed should still be under warranty. So contact them about that. As far as the lack of power, one of the most common problems is a plugged catylatic converter. When driving, if it plugs, it will cause a change in engine sound and also a reduction in power. I would have that checked.

Just for the heck of it, is the check engine light coming on? If it is, take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Let me know what they are. If could just identify the VSS again, or there could be other codes and I need to know what they are.

Try that and let me know what you find. Also, most parts stores will do it for free, so there shouldn't be any additional money out of pocket for you.

Joe
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DSTATION
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 2000 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 244,000 MILES
Major hesitation from 0 MPH, then takes off like a rocket; checked compression, manifold vacuum, exhaust restrictions, installed a new TPS, and now we are trying to determine what the readings should be on the MAF sensor. Should there be a 5 volt reference signal to it? This MAF is integrated with the IAT sensor (5 wire)
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:48 AM (Merged)

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