Will not start

Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 5.8L
  • 192,000 MILES
E150 van started stalling and cutting off. Restarted some but not at all now. No spark. Replaced coil and rotor and crank sensor. Coil tested at working (power, primary, secondary). I can hear the fuel pump. Changed fuel filter. This stalling did begin a few days after a fill up where I have been buying gas for years (QT). Could the gas be that bad? What to try next?
Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 10:46 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Oops. Battery is three months old. Cleaned posts. 12 v at starter. Engine light not on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

Has the replacement of the ignition components restored spark to the plugs? Also, even though you hear the fuel pump, have you checked fuel pressure?

Do me a favor. See if it starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we have a fuel-related issue. If it makes no difference, then it is ignition related.

Here is a link that explains how to test for spark at the plugs:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here is one that how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Since there is no check engine light or codes stored, it could be a fuel-related issue or a crankshaft position sensor issue. I realize you replaced the sensor, but it could be related to the wiring.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you so much Joe! I will try those and get back to you. Again, thank you for your help! Jeff
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 4:48 AM
Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The starting fluid made no difference although there is probably six feet of intake pipe making a 180 degree turn before the throttle body. I sprayed no more than 3 seconds per directions. Do we know there is no bad gas? Is that too farfetched?

Should I still check fuel pressure? A certain car parts store didn't have a fuel pressure gauge to loan.

Also, there still is no spark after the cap, rotor, and crank sensor.
Check crank sensor wiring? What else?

Isn't there some type of ignition module in there?

Appreciate the help!

Jeff
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
There is no longer a stand-alone Ignition Control Module (ICM). The ICM has been integrated into the PCM.

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) is used to indicate crankshaft position and speed information to the PCM. The PCM uses the information from the CKP to generate an internal profile ignition pickup signal (PIP signal). Once the PIP signal is generated, fuel and spark functions are enabled.

The PIP is also known as the camshaft position sensor. It is located in the distributor. See pic 1 below. If the crank sensor is good, and everything is working, the PIP sensor is the next thing to be checked.

To replace the component, the distributor needs to be removed and disassembled. See pic 1 for sensor location and the remaining pics for replacement.

You need a press to remove this component.

I hope what I described makes sense to you. I tried to make it as understandable as possible. Inspect that component in the distributor. You can see it when the distributor cap is removed.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks Joe! The attached diagram has 12 items. Which one is the PIP? Number 5? The cam position sensor?

It reads like a delicate procedure to take apart the distributor. Would it be easier to buy a new distributor at NAPA for $ 104.99?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

The disassembly of the distributor can be difficult and if you don't have a press, the gear can't be removed. The idea that I'm not 100% sure that is the problem, I don't feel comfortable making that call. I don't want you to spend money that isn't going to fix the issue. However, after reading through two different manuals, which is what it's pointing me toward. Sadly, they don't provide a test for it.

Let me know your plans and what I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
JEFF99GT
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I appreciate your time and help! I do have a press. Are the PIP, cam position sensor, stator (Hall effect) all the same thing?

How do we know if that piece is bad?

What is checked after the above piece (cam position sensor)?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 20th, 2021 AT 5:22 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

The sensor is a hall effect sensor, so you could check for a voltage signal when cranking the engine. As far as the location, in pic 1 above, I highlighted it for you (number 5 as you mentioned). And yes, my manual is referring to that part as both the PIP and the cam sensor.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 20th, 2021 AT 6:47 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links