Rough idle

Tiny
KEAHUPIE
  • MEMBER
  • VOLKSWAGEN
I've got a 1998 VW Jetta GLX (VR6) with 5 speed and with 117k miles. I have two issues that may or may not be related:
-unusually high idle rpm: hovers around 1100-1200rpm where 700 was the norm in the past. Also, the idle rpms are not as steady and fluctuate a bit more than they used to.
-after driving on a highway for about an hour, found that the car would intermittently jerk (loose power?) For a second or two. This comes and goes in small batches and can happen at any gear. The jerking is a lot more severe than if I abrubtly let gas pedal off which makes me think that it's not engine related. If I abrubtly let gas pedal off in any gear, the car slows down relatively smoothly as it should. No stalling has occured yet (crossing my fingers).
-Here are my trouble codes:
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak)
P1544 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High
P1580 Throttle Actuator B1 Malfunction
P1582 Idle Adaptation at Limit
-I took the throttle off to check it and all mechanisms are in good shape even the gears and potentiometer.
-AMF sensor is responsive to throttle position changes
-throttle pos. Sensor is responsive to pedal pressing (as seen in my scanner)
-Fuel filter is one year old, air filter is clean
-new spark plugs
Thursday, September 14th, 2006 AT 5:45 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
LILWE3ZY05
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Double check for vacuum leaks. They seem to be a big problem, and also check your idle air control valve. If it is stuck open, that can cause higher idle.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, September 14th, 2006 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
CAPTAINMANIACDRIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
VW's computer can cause the idle fluctuation to tell you of a problem. Usually you need to then clean the airflow sensor, new sparkplugs and/or timing check. A vacume leak could cause it too. On non-CIS or Difigiant the idle stabilizer need be checked more often. It seems it's your rubber boot from the air filter to the manifold because the engine moves a bit while the air filter does not, thus opening the boot even more in first gear with most torque. When full thottle you can beat the stall. There may be a hose below into the boot which also may have come loose either end.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 30th, 2006 AT 4:58 PM
Tiny
CAPTAINMANIACDRIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
I recently got over 400K miles and the ECU went out. Very difficult not. It was a weak spark causing a low rough idle. But after heating up it died until cooled. Lucky once it was going it would not stop but the idle was low and rough but raced 95%. Almost like one injector or two had a problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 30th, 2006 AT 5:03 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links