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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
BELENTHIAN
- MEMBER
- 14 POSTS
So its hard to find?
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Shut off while driving and will not start
CJ MEDEVAC
- MECHANIC
- 11,004 POSTS
NOT NECESSARILY
IT MAY BE HOOKED TO YOUR COIL'S BRACKET!
I DO NOT KNOW, WAIT FOR CARADIODOC, HE MAY KNOW BETTER!
THE MEDIC
IT MAY BE HOOKED TO YOUR COIL'S BRACKET!
I DO NOT KNOW, WAIT FOR CARADIODOC, HE MAY KNOW BETTER!
THE MEDIC
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
BELENTHIAN
- MEMBER
- 14 POSTS
Ok, thank you
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
CJ MEDEVAC
- MECHANIC
- 11,004 POSTS
ONE MORE QUESTION
ARE YOU AT HOME, OR STRANDED SOMEWHERE?
THE MEDIC
ARE YOU AT HOME, OR STRANDED SOMEWHERE?
THE MEDIC
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
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BELENTHIAN
- MEMBER
- 14 POSTS
Luckily this happened to me in my driveway.
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
MARK HOTCHKISS
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 1993 FORD BRONCO
- V8
- 4WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 289,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Ford Bronco V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 289000 miles
I am the original owner of a 1993 Ford Bronco with 289,000 miles. Within the past year and a half, I have experienced some engine problems in that the engine bucks intermittently at freeway speeds. Checking the tachometer while this is happening, it appears that the electrical systems are experiencing some interruptions.
Mechanics seem to be baffled. They state that my truck has the type of computer which does not record problems so therefore they can't find a fault. Short of throwing parts at it, they advise to drive it until it fails to run. For the past 8 months, I've been doing exactly that.
When cold, the engine has occassionally stalled.
Their have been no regular patterns to the problem.
However, the problems seem to have started when the in tank fuel pump was replaced after it failed and stranded me once.
More recently, the A/C has suddenly failed, and the heater works intermittently. It seems that they just quit working one day. No fuses were blown.
The symptoms seem to indicate some sort of electric failure?
1993 Ford Bronco V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 289000 miles
I am the original owner of a 1993 Ford Bronco with 289,000 miles. Within the past year and a half, I have experienced some engine problems in that the engine bucks intermittently at freeway speeds. Checking the tachometer while this is happening, it appears that the electrical systems are experiencing some interruptions.
Mechanics seem to be baffled. They state that my truck has the type of computer which does not record problems so therefore they can't find a fault. Short of throwing parts at it, they advise to drive it until it fails to run. For the past 8 months, I've been doing exactly that.
When cold, the engine has occassionally stalled.
Their have been no regular patterns to the problem.
However, the problems seem to have started when the in tank fuel pump was replaced after it failed and stranded me once.
More recently, the A/C has suddenly failed, and the heater works intermittently. It seems that they just quit working one day. No fuses were blown.
The symptoms seem to indicate some sort of electric failure?
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
SERVICE WRITER
- MECHANIC
- 9,123 POSTS
We had one in the shop several years back that would eat up the ignition control module every 3 years. It could not be confirmed unless the truck was in the state of not starting.
To help the diagnosis along the owner left the truck with us, while the shop owner drove it for a month. We had no problems the whole time. It had left her stranded several times prior. She picked it up and didn't more than 10 blocks and it quit. Boy, was she upset. But we were able to go down and confirm it at that point.
I don't know that this is the case on yours, but may be tough to uncover.
The a/c and blower problem may be able to be uncovered by having the blower in the on position and wiggling wires on that circuit to uncover a bad spot.
To help the diagnosis along the owner left the truck with us, while the shop owner drove it for a month. We had no problems the whole time. It had left her stranded several times prior. She picked it up and didn't more than 10 blocks and it quit. Boy, was she upset. But we were able to go down and confirm it at that point.
I don't know that this is the case on yours, but may be tough to uncover.
The a/c and blower problem may be able to be uncovered by having the blower in the on position and wiggling wires on that circuit to uncover a bad spot.
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
CARADIODOC
- MECHANIC
- 33,752 POSTS
I can't find a book at the moment. Look on the ignition coil for the positive terminal, and follow that wire to see if it goes to a resistor. The older ones where white, about two inches long, and about 3/4" square, with two plug-in terminals.
If you can't find a resistor, use a voltmeter or test light on the positive coil terminal to check for voltage. You'll find it there during engine cranking but it should also be there with the ignition switch in the "run" position.
If you can't find a resistor, use a voltmeter or test light on the positive coil terminal to check for voltage. You'll find it there during engine cranking but it should also be there with the ignition switch in the "run" position.
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
BELENTHIAN
- MEMBER
- 14 POSTS
That's the problem. It will not stay in the run position, It will fall back to the off position and will not stay running. So it is completely missing that run slot. I don't know if its slipping or missing it.
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
CJ MEDEVAC
- MECHANIC
- 11,004 POSTS
OK WE'RE GONNA REVIEW!
TURN KEY TO "START". VEHICLE STARTS!
RELEASE KEY. VEHICLE DIES
3 POSSIBILITIES I KNOW
1) IGNITION SWITCH, BAD, OR SLIPPED IN ADJUSTMENT (ADJ RARELY)
2) RESISTANCE (RESISTOR). FROM IGN SWITCH TO THE COIL
3) PROBLEM WITH THE WIRE THE RESISTOR IS ON
IF DOC WILL APPROVE MY TEST, TO MAYBE RULE IN "2" OR POSSIBLY "3", "2" MAY BE AN EZ FIX---IF "YOU" CAN IDENTIFY AND REPLACE THE RESISTOR
I DO NOT WANT TO MESS UP YOUR VEHICLE WORSE. IT WORKS ON MY JEEPS AND OLD VEHICLES.I DON'T KNOW YOURS WELL ENOUGH TO THROW IT ON YOU. UNLESS CARADIODOC SAYS IT WILL!
I HAVE BEEN CONJURING UP "SPELLS" THAT WILL FIX IT FROM HERE, BUT I THINK THE CELL TOWERS CANNOT DECODE THEM AND SEND THEM ON!LOL!
YOU GOTTA HELP TOO!
THE MEDIC
TURN KEY TO "START". VEHICLE STARTS!
RELEASE KEY. VEHICLE DIES
3 POSSIBILITIES I KNOW
1) IGNITION SWITCH, BAD, OR SLIPPED IN ADJUSTMENT (ADJ RARELY)
2) RESISTANCE (RESISTOR). FROM IGN SWITCH TO THE COIL
3) PROBLEM WITH THE WIRE THE RESISTOR IS ON
IF DOC WILL APPROVE MY TEST, TO MAYBE RULE IN "2" OR POSSIBLY "3", "2" MAY BE AN EZ FIX---IF "YOU" CAN IDENTIFY AND REPLACE THE RESISTOR
I DO NOT WANT TO MESS UP YOUR VEHICLE WORSE. IT WORKS ON MY JEEPS AND OLD VEHICLES.I DON'T KNOW YOURS WELL ENOUGH TO THROW IT ON YOU. UNLESS CARADIODOC SAYS IT WILL!
I HAVE BEEN CONJURING UP "SPELLS" THAT WILL FIX IT FROM HERE, BUT I THINK THE CELL TOWERS CANNOT DECODE THEM AND SEND THEM ON!LOL!
YOU GOTTA HELP TOO!
THE MEDIC
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
CARADIODOC
- MECHANIC
- 33,752 POSTS
Sorry, I misunderstood. Sounds like a switch problem. Did you post this a few days ago? If not, someone else had the same problem. My best guess is the switch is bolted to the right side of the steering column, under the dash panel, and has a long rod going to it. I don't know which part is spring-loaded, the switch or the lock cylinder.
Those switches on the column are adjustable by loosening two screws and sliding it up and down. I think it's more likely the rod is deforming / bent or the switch is loose and out-of-adjustment. If neither of those are correct, remove the rod and try to work the switch by hand without the cylinder.
Look at the wires in the connector too. If any are hardened and the terminals are black, the switch contacts have been overheating and the plastic body will be melted. That would explain the loss of one of the detents.
Those switches on the column are adjustable by loosening two screws and sliding it up and down. I think it's more likely the rod is deforming / bent or the switch is loose and out-of-adjustment. If neither of those are correct, remove the rod and try to work the switch by hand without the cylinder.
Look at the wires in the connector too. If any are hardened and the terminals are black, the switch contacts have been overheating and the plastic body will be melted. That would explain the loss of one of the detents.
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Friday, November 24th, 2017 AT 5:02 PM
(Merged)
DFERRIS2069
- MEMBER
- 6 POSTS
- 1991 FORD BRONCO
- 5.8L
- V8
- 4WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 120,000 MILES
I posted a question regarding my issue prior to now and then my feed got merged so there was numerous people asking their questions which made my answers stop coming in and left me hanging. My last response was to check for spark at the plugs when ignition is to take place. Which was going lead me completely astray. So to summarize what my issue was, I could start the vehicle and after a minute or so it would stall. If I gave it any gas it would bog and stall so JACOBANDNICKOLAS suggested I start with my EGR valve I cleaned it and it did nothing but when I would turn koeo my fuel pump stayed priming until the key was turned. But still would not fire up. He then suggested I pull codes and try to clear them. Which is when I got the response about spark from Ken and the thread merged. I know it gets spark I do not know why that was suggested when the truck would start and run until stalled. So I replaced my fuel filter fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump relay which did not solve it but needed to be done anyways while I was there. But then I thought about something I forgot in the beginning. My EGR position sensor, swapped that out turned key to koeo and heard the glorious single second fuel pump prime. Fired the vehicle up and it ran a little rough the first twenty seconds or so, but now runs like a champ! Thank you JACOBANDNICKOLAS for steering me in the right direction!
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Monday, November 27th, 2017 AT 11:59 AM
(Merged)
KEN L
- MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
- 42,973 POSTS
Sorry about the merging it happens when the subject matter is similar and the post has gone a while with no activity. I am glad you found the EGR sensor that was bad this is a problem they had when the catalytic converter starts to plug up it shorts out the EGR position sensor. I would suggest checking the cat
Here is a guide to help you confirm the problem.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter
Please let me know what you find and if you received this notification of the response to your question.
Cheers, Ken
Here is a guide to help you confirm the problem.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter
Please let me know what you find and if you received this notification of the response to your question.
Cheers, Ken
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Monday, November 27th, 2017 AT 12:02 PM
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