Car stall while driving?

When this happens and it doesn't start, do you still have spark to the plugs? It could be several things, but I feel it has to do with a poor connection between the distributor and electronic control module (ECM).

this guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi,
I have a 1996 Camry, automatic, with 241,000 miles on it. I have taken good care of it over the years, but it's giving me grief now. After I come to a stop and then try to go again, it either acts like it's going to stall, or actually does stall out. Today was the first day it actually did the stalling out, previously it just felt like it was going to die. I'm terrified to drive it now. It stalled three times today. I had it in the shop and it tested out fine on the computer and some other checks. What might be the problem? I had the IAC replaced two years ago and the throttle body cleaned at that same time.
Thanks for any advice you may be able to give.

[quote:e32c14c4ae="aggiegirl"]Hi,
I have a 1996 Camry, automatic, with 241,000 miles on it. I have taken good care of it over the years, but it's giving me grief now. After I come to a stop and then try to go again, it either acts like it's going to stall, or actually does stall out. Today was the first day it actually did the stalling out, previously it just felt like it was going to die. I'm terrified to drive it now. It stalled three times today. I had it in the shop and it tested out fine on the computer and some other checks. What might be the problem? I had the IAC replaced two years ago and the throttle body cleaned at that same time.
Thanks for any advice you may be able to give.[/quote:e32c14c4ae]

I think you should start by cleaning the IAC and throttle body
It’s very common on them Toyota
Good luck
Let us know

My Camry (1996 LE four door) has a stalling problem when you accelerate too fast or go onto the highway. It's not while your driving, but when you go to stop. The car's RPMs will drop really hard and the slower you get, the engine will slowly sputter out. The rpm goes down to 200 and the car shakes a lot. The car will then struggle for a few moments to stay on and bounce between 200 and 500 rpm before finally shutting off and displaying the check engine light and the oil light. Then, I just put the car in park and start it while giving it some gas and it starts up and runs fine.

It all started after I accidentally skimmed a large puddle and was particularly bad in wet weather for a while.

I had a mechanic look at it and they replaced the distributor cap and wires saying they were bad and causing it, but it returned the next day.

I noticed that when I avoid the highway and keep the rpms below 3000 when driving, it doesnt happen. I also put the a/c on if i think it's idling too low to keep it running.

My research has led me to believe it's either a dirty EGR valve or a bad fuel filter.

The car has 149,800 miles with new spark plugs and I just got an oil change.

Please help, thanks!

I too have the same problem with my 1996 toyota camry. I have also read various posts on the internet about the same problems with this year/model.

What happens to my 1996 camry is sometimes when I hit the brakes the cars rpm's start to fluctuate up and down rapidly. More downward then up, as if it is having a hard time keeping the idle. Then if I dont step on the accelorator to give it gas and get the rpm's up, it will stall. So sometimes I find myself at a stoplight with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas to keep the rpms steady and from dropping and stalling. Lately the car is doing this more often. Everything else on the car runs great.

I have tried to have it fixed by 2 differant mechanics. They both didnt know exactly what the problem was but one who is a friend of my family and very honest tried to clean out the fuel injectors, change some plugs, change the idle rpms. None of this worked. His computer also read "multiple missfires" from the code from my cars check engine light. The other mechanic said the problem was a cold start valve, he changed this on my car but it was not the answer. All that did was have the car start great but still having the same prob

PLEASE HELP: I know this is a common problem with this car from what I have been reading. CAN SOMEBODY WHO HAS FIXED OR CORRECTED THIS PROBLEM OR KNOWS HOW TO PLEASE TELL US HOW?

THANKS.

may be the coil in the distributer, it has been noted by others, you need to also replace the little o ring. Use a genuine toyota coil. Let me know, I will be changing mine soon.

I have this exact problem with my Camry. And I have looked on this forum and found 3 others with same post. But no solid solution.

Best response I have found is this one that it may be the distributor coil.

I replaced mine and it didn't seem to fix the problem. However, I bought a used one and didn't replace the small o-ring which is required per repair instructions. I may have replaced my problem with another problem. I don't want to go through this again if this isn't the cause of the issue.

Hopefully an answer will arise on these threads soon.

Apparently may be an issue with toyota, probably best to clean it, Toyota seems to have quality problems with this part.

Hey did anybody figure out what was causing the car to stall? My 96 camry is doing the exact same thing now. I drive it on the highway and when I stop or slow down the rpms will jump from 500-700 then to 0 and stall out. It only happens after driving on the highway and doesn't happen all the time. I had the spark plug wires changed and the throttle body cleaned, I then drove the car cross country and the car only stalled once after 2k miles of driving. It is now doing it more and more.

I have a 94 toyota camry and it just stop working while I was driving. I pused the gas but the spedometer kept going down then my battery light came on followed by the oil light and when I tried to push the brake the brake wouldn't work so I had to use the emergency break nos its making the sound like it wants to start but its not turning over.. please tell me what's wrong with my car!

Please help

Review this link and then let me know what you have: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

@ rasmataz The link is helpful but it requires a device that I do not own. But thank you

those toyotas are very reliable cars. when this issue happens, the most likely cuase in my eyes is a broken timing belt. when did you have it changed last??

luckily, it is not an interference motor and can be changed with no possibility of bent valves.

have a shop check it for you to confirm.
i am assuming it is a 4 cylinder

Roy

@ asemaster6371 I honestly don't know but I do know that it is a 4 cylinder. When I bought the car it was used and the guy I bought it from said everything was either new or fixed since then I've been back to that place 3 times for them to fix things the right way. My dash lights weren't working when I first got it and I couldn't unlock my door from the driver side only the passenger side. Btw if anyon is around ct and looking to buy a car do not I repeat go to bouelvard motors in new haven.

i drive a 96 toyota camry with about 144,000 miles on it, i was driving it the other day and i went to go press the accelerator and nothing happened, it just coasted. the check engine light and oil light went on as i was coasting, the radio was still on and everything and it had a full tank of gas. as it was coasting i pulled to the side of the road and turned it off and put it in park, tried starting it again and all i heard was the starter winding. i had a friend come by and he thought it was either the fuel filter/fuel pump because it didnt seem like fuel was getting to the engine for it to start. someone help please, thank you.

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

ok, you still need to find a solution. you need a shop, another shop, to check it for you.

Roy

96 Camry 4 cyl - 70K - Car stalls when I stop occasionally - No Check Engine Light On, had a major tune up around 50K miles. Car will also hesitate when accelarating then will catch up - Just had Fuel Pump, and Timing Belt service done.

Car will take a couple of tries to start - I check all connections and can get it to turn over - Also ran at 2000 RPM in Park - Put into to Drive car stalled

Bringing in for Service on Weds 11/21 - I need some suggestions

Check the idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, EGR, and fuel pressure.

So my guy replaced the IAC - he said it was filthy and that Toyota Parts person said it was a common problem - But car still has the same problem - Except car will stall once it has been driven around - No problems when cold. Still hitting a dead spot at times when accelerating. I am going to suggest the Throttle Position Sensor - My guy says there are loads of sensor - i just don't want to keep throwing money in to the car

Hard to tell a Mechanic what could be wrong - when all I do is work on a computer

Any help would be appreciated

Hard to tell a Mechanic what could be wrong - when all I do is work on a computer. Take my suggestions and have him inspect/test it-you're paying him-you call the shot. Me too! all day long I answer people's car problems-what makes it tough is am not with the vehicle wish I was

You have a nice holidays and good luck

So Mechanic replaced IAC - mechanic mentions that Fuel Pump is shutting down once car heats up - but there is spark

I had the Fuel Pump replaced was under warranty as I had replaced again this past weekend - By another shop that was dishonest - they were trying to get me for diagnostic testing - Once I brought to my guy he claimed they did an abortion to the supporting are to fuel - that they didn't replace the whole assembly

Have the mass airflow meter check terminal Fc it grounds the circuit opening relay then it powers the fuel pump. also the EFI main relay.

Shakes or Wobbles problem
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Automatic 103000 miles
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, and about 1.5 months ago, while I was on the interstate traveling about 80 - 85, it began missing slightly. It wasn't enough to cause whiplash, but I noticed it and eased off to about 70 - 75 and the problem resolved itself. It didn't materialize again until I was on the interstate maybe several weeks later, but this time it was more pronounced. The problem became intermittent, but happened at lower speeds - like accelerating from rest to 30 - 45mph. The other day, while making a turn to go up a smaller grade hill, I ended up flooring it and could only get the car up to 25 - 30mph. It stayed like this for maybe 5 - 10 seconds, and I then heard a very low sounding hiss/gas escaping sound that was followed by a short, single metallic ting/ping. The sounds, to me, seemed as if they were coming from the left/driver side of the engine compartment. Once the metallic ting/ping sound ended, the car immediately accelerated normally and the problem resolved itself again. It has happened several times since, always resolving itself.

Knowing I had to have the car serviced, I started trying to find a reputable mechanic through a friend (as I'm new in town), when I had to go out of town. Right before I left, I had the oil changed and the Jiffy Lube print out reported "no seen problems" in terms of leaks, etc, and topped off all my fluids. I drove close to 3 hours on the interstate at 80 - 85 with no problems. I got to my destination, turned the car off, got back in after about an hour and the problem started again at like 60 - 70mph mildly lurching and missing. I began to ease off the gas and started get off the interstate, and by the time I got off the interstate, I was going no more than 35 - 40mph with it close to being floored. At the top off the off ramp, I came to a stop to try and turn and the car stalled and died. I smelled a slight odor of something burning or of something have been burnt. The transmission light came on. I restarted the car and drove it to a gas station with it missing/lurching still, but not as much as before. The transmission light went off when I restarted, and I checked the fluid levels after I got to the gas station - which were fine. There was no smoke, hissing, leaking fluids or anything out of the ordinary associated with the engine then that I could see. Also, at no time has my check engine light ever come on.

I just got back from Firestone as I just wanted it checked now regardless so I could drive back home. My thought was maybe a clog in the fuel line or the fuel filter. I paid $100 to have the diagnostics ran, which showed...ehh. It did show that my #1 selenoid is giving the error code "random/mulitple misfires." They also found a crack in an air-intake tubing. The tech said that my plugs, dist cap, wiring needs to be replaced because they look bad and it is past the "recommended replacement time," but that nothing specific came up on them from the diagnositc. I specifically asked him about the fuel system. He says that he recommends it be "serviced and cleaned" through their $70 fuel system option, but otherwise nothing was noted on the diagnostic - I specifically asked and he said that there was no noted drop in the fuel system pressure.

Am I wrong to think it is the fuel filter/fuel system? Could it be anything else - electrical, plugs, etc? Could the solenoid really cause these combined,intermittent problems? With all their "recommended" servicing, tune ups, replacing the water pump as my belts need to be replaced too, and a new set of tires, Firestone wants around $2000 to do everything. They're not getting it. They're giving no reason as for the problems that brought me in other to say that if I have everything replaced, it may clear up the problem. I'm now confused as if they even looked at the fuel filter/system (which I'm going to talk to them tomorrow about), but any help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I'm sorry as to the length, but I tried to include a much info as possible. Also, regardless, I am going to have a "tune up" peformed to replaced spark plugs, wiring, etc as it does need to be done.

Are your comments standard procedure when replacing a fuel pump ? I hope it works I would hate to spend $500 and it doesn't

Thanks for your help - How is the weather in Guam it is a nice steamy 20 degrees in New York

Get the fuel pressure check-this will find problems with fuel filter,pressure regulator and fuel pump. Fuel system checks out-

Have the throttle and vehicle speed sensor/MAF tested

Weather is perfect under a coconut tree, just don't get hit with the nuts. About the situation-see below how the fuel pump gets its power source. The circuit starts at the EFI fuse/Main relay/Circuit Opening Relay/Air flow meter, then fuel pump one of this is causing the problem. If it was me I'll check the fuel pump connector 1st for power before I replace the pump. See below

I too have a similar problem with my 1996 toyota camry. I have also read various posts on the internet about the same problems with this year/model.

What happens to my 1996 camry is sometimes when I hit the brakes the cars rpm's start to fluctuate up and down rapidly. More downward then up, as if it is having a hard time keeping the idle. Then if I dont step on the accelorator to give it gas and get the rpm's up, it will stall. So sometimes I find myself at a stoplight with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas to keep the rpms steady and from dropping and stalling. Lately the car is doing this more often. Everything else on the car runs great.

I have tried to have it fixed by 2 differant mechanics. They both didnt know exactly what the problem was but one who is a friend of my family and very honest tried to clean out the fuel injectors, change some plugs, change the idle rpms. None of this worked. His computer also read "multiple missfires" from the code from my cars check engine light. The other mechanic said the problem was a cold start valve, he changed this on my car but it was not the answer. All that did was have the car start great but still having the same prob

PLEASE HELP: I know this is a common problem with this car from what I have been reading. CAN SOMEBODY WHO HAS FIXED OR CORRECTED THIS PROBLEM OR KNOWS HOW TO PLEASE TELL US HOW?

THANKS.

So he has the car running for over an hour and it will not stall - so he can pin test it .Checking everything still nothing harnesses, connections, I don't know at this point
I gave him all of your suggestions

Inspect the air control valve take it out and clean it/throttle position sensor/EGR valve-and check the fuel pressure.

Tell him to direct power to the pump from the battery . positive to blue/black and negative to white/black on the fuel pump connector. Comeback and tell me what happened.

Yesterday he checked all connections to fuel pump like you said - Had the car in the garage running for 3 Hours - no stalling - Car was blocked in as roof was being replaced - He is not sure if car didn't stall as it wasn't being driven or that it was in a warm garage
I would think if car ran that long in " Park " maybe it was a loose connection - How can you see if Fule pump was truly replaced ?

I drive my Camry for about 20-25 minutes on the road. As I approach a red light or stop sign, the car begins to shake and then it suddenly stalls IF I don't take my foot off the brakes quickly and then apply the gas. Every time I apply the brakes and come to a stop for about 5 minutes, the car begins to shake and finally stall. Also when it stalls, the car doesn't want to start. I start for about 5-6 times and the engine seems to just crank, but no starting occurs. After I wait 6-7 minutes, I start again, and the car starts normally, but ONLY after waiting 6-7 minutes. This is a weird problem and I've taken the car to the Toyota dealership, and they've been charging me up to the nose and have not come up with a resolution. They've done an AVR test and the car came with positive marks. I'm guessing there's something wrong with the fuel line or something related to the fuel injection system. Please get back to me asap, thx,

Stan

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and test the throttle position sensor and airflow meter and also clean out the EGR valve

Thanks Rasmataz for your timely response. I'm just wondering ALL those things you told me, do they have to do with the fuel injecting system? (EGR Valve, throttle position sensor, and airflow metre). Also I'll tell you what the dealership guys did:

1. Conducted an AVR test and checked the electrical, battery and starter systems and found everything was OK.

2. They did an oil change (on my request as the oil change was approaching the maintenance date) and fixed my front brakes and machined the front rotors.

3. Next, they RECOMMENDED that my distributor cap and rotors need to be replaced since they found some corrosion on the cap and rotors. Again this is all necessary according to them to fix the stalling problem.

At this stage (step 3), I thought about it and decided to ask you guys (I've paid almost $500+ and still the Toyota dealership can't come to a solution). This is crazy!

Stan

Check the items I've mentioned earlier and also the TCC solenoid and comback with some results

When I drive my car after the engine has been rested(until it's cold) it drives just fine. Then until after about a good 8 miles and above, the car starts to shake at idle and then it sometimes will even die. But, the car starts up everytime and sometimes it would it crank for a few seconds before acutally starting. I can drive again for 5-10 miles before this occurs again. The car drives just fine in the city and the highway as well. I'm either not getting enough fuel or sparks somewhere. What could be causing this problem? Let me know...

Do you have a check engine light and when was the last tune-up ?

You need to check the fuel pressure if its within specs, also the idle air control valve/PCV and EGR valves

car refuses to accelerates when turtle is applied rather it drags and drags after sometimes before it finally pick up. @ times when driving the car automatically comes to an halt by itself, but starts when restarted.