No spark - engine doesn't start

Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 CHRYSLER LE BARON
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,914 MILES
Hello,

I have a 1988 Chrysler Le Baron 2, 2 turbo cabrio and I already bought it broken (thought it was gonna be easy to fix it and enjoy the car) and I have no more ideas what could that be.

The engine won't start, there is no spark. I receive the error code 54 and have no more ideas for it.
The starter is ok, it's cranking, but the engine will not engage.
The fuel pump relay seems to be working, as I can feel it "click" on when the key is turned to start the car. I also hear it working when I stand close to the tank. Fuel filter looks like it must have been replaced recently.
I have the power module and the turbo logic module as 2 separate parts (as in 86-87 models).

It happened few times that the engine started while cranking, then it worked for a while and turned off suddenly. I even got it once working for like an hour and then I had to tug it back home. So sometimes something happens and the spark shows up, but it happened only like 5 times.


Already tried:
Replaced pickup sensor under the distributor cap for a new one.
Replaced the ignition coil for a new one.
Checked fusible links: they are ok.
Checked all wires: they are ok.
Checked on the two small wires on the back of the alternator during engine cranking: one of them has full battery voltage.
Checked the map sensor: it is ok.
Removed the rubber from the inside of the power module, checked all of the connections: they are ok.
Replaced one of transistors in the power module for a new one.
Remove the distributor cap and watch if the rotor turns during cranking: it does turn

The computer might have been already replaced once because there is written: "81 dodge b4 600"


I think it could be the logic module, but before replacing it I want to be 100% sure that I checked every other possibility, because it is an expensive adventure.

I will appreciate every useful hint, hoping for finally getting it repaired.
Saturday, March 26th, 2016 AT 3:24 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
There is no code 54 however there is a code 53 which means the smec is bad see pics for diagnosis also make sure your auto shutdown relay is good.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, March 26th, 2016 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Thank you for you quick answer!

There must be the code 54, I counted it many many times and it is always 54.

I don't have SMEC as cars built in 88-89, I have power module and logic module in 2 separate parts.
Power module has two sockets, one 10-pin, second 12-pin and is located unter the hood.
Logic module has two sockets, 25 pins each, one blue, one red and is located next to passenger's feet.

Doesn't it mean that my ASD relay works, if I can hear the fuel pump working? If not, how to check it then?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, March 29th, 2016 AT 5:52 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Our site under electrical tells how to check a relay or type in search engine how to check a relay. As far as a smec our manual shows one on lh front fender but i'mnot gonna argue the point car is to damn old. See pics for diagnosing code 54
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, March 29th, 2016 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I've checked ASD relay - it is working fine.

It may be possible that my car was built in 1987 (like in December) but registered in 1988, that would explain why it has the logic module from older models.

I diagnosed code 54 according to your screenshots, I have around 8 Volts on both connectors (No. 1 and No. 2) which would mean broken distributor sync pick-up, but I have just replaced it for a brand new one.
Is it possible that a brand new part is broken? I am sure it didn't get broken while being installed. The rotor spins when cranking the engine.

Can we have here some other issue?
May that be some wire or can it be the logic module failure?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 31st, 2016 AT 1:03 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
There should be a production date on your car, if spark goes to dist then it's either the rotor or dist cap. If you don't have the correct system on your car then the part may be incorrect did you check the wire going to smec? That may be frayed or grounding out. It may be your logic board is bad as well. Or your pickup is a cheap one and not made to specs. A lot of Chinese junk is like that.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 31st, 2016 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Maybe I should double-check the installation as the error indicates the camshaft position sensor? I mean the wiring from the camshaft sensor plug to the ECU plug

But where can I get the diagrams from? I tried to find some in the internet but there were none. Do you have any?

+ If the rotor spins while cranking the engine, can it still be bad?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 4:07 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If there is no spark to dist and rotor turns and none to plugs then either a rotor or dist cap. As long as it spins the sensor should work. Blk/ lt blu powers other sensors
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 7:05 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I've just checked the voltage on the ignition coil:
after turning the ignition switch it's 0, 7 V less than the battery voltage for one second
BUT it's gone when cranking the engine, it's 0, 2V then.

The ASD relay is turning on for 1 second when turning the ignition switch.

About the year of production: the nameplate is in German, but on the windows there's 87.

I told you I don't have 60-pin SMEC. All of the screenshots you attached are for 88.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Here iis one from an 87 which in previous replies I asked for a production date which you did not give. Happy hunting
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Here's more I hate this new system
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
More too
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Thank you,

unfortunately it is still not working.
I don't know what else could I check, starting to become hopeless.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 19th, 2016 AT 4:39 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
I have no other suggestions/comments.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Tuesday, April 19th, 2016 AT 6:00 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Hello after long long time,

I solved the problem - bought a new logic module and after its replacement the car is all fine!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Monday, June 26th, 2017 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,909 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, June 28th, 2017 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Hello again Ken!
I was happy too soon - after few days of driving something caused the same thing again: no spark, no start, but no flash codes either.
Can it be that something burnt the new logic module? It happened after the engine reached a very high temperature.

Can you please advice what could make the new logic module broken?

I already ordered another one but I don't want to put it in before I am sure it won't get broken again - this would be the third already.

Almost hopeless thanks in advance,
Paulina
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, June 30th, 2017 AT 1:12 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,909 POSTS
Hello,

I would try changing the engine temperature sensor, it sounds like it is shorting out.

Here is a guide that will help show you what you are in for when doing the job and a diagram (below) on it location on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, June 30th, 2017 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Hello Ken,
thank you for advice!
I measured the resistance of the present coolant temperature sensor and it is 12 000 ohms so I assumed there is no short circuit. Should I replace it anyway?

Many thanks for helping me out!
Cheers,
Paulina
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 4th, 2017 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
I made a mistake in our manual they don't list code 54 but I went to a different area and found code 54 it's a distributor problem see pics for tests to do to diagnose this. If it leads to what is called a smec that is the computer as faulty. Follow tests in order of pics.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 4th, 2017 AT 8:09 AM
Tiny
LEBARON100%
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Hello again,

thank you for joining again, but the 54 error is long gone - it disappeared after I installed a new logic module. I also told you already that in my car there is NO 60-pin connector, because my car appears (after decoding VIN) to be made in 1987. 60-pin connectors were present in later models.

Now my problem is that I can't run the engine although it cranks, I don't have any flash codes and for me it looks like I have to replace logic module again. But why?

Thanks in advance!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 5th, 2017 AT 2:37 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links